Category: Food

  • Here are the 21 best things we ate in 2025

    Here are the 21 best things we ate in 2025

    You eat to live. We eat for a living.

    Altogether, our staff consumes thousands of meals a year, from on-the-go bites at takeout counters to sumptuous tasting meals at intimate ateliers. It’s no surprise that some experiences are memorable, some are forgettable, and some are memorable for being forgettable (but that’s a different story for a different day).

    Here are 20 dishes we ate in 2025 that stopped us mid-bite, clarified a restaurant’s point of view, or captured a moment we wanted to return to. I’ve coursed this out, moving from opening bites through vegetable-forward dishes, then to mains and desserts. As a bonus, there’s a cocktail whose elements provide the perfect transition from snacktime to dinner.

    Although some dishes were specials, or are offered seasonally, be assured that these kitchens reliably turn out food that truly is memorable. In a good way. — Michael Klein

    For starters

    Sesame madeleines with ras al hanout butter at Emmett.

    Sesame madeleines at Emmett

    I don’t think there was a more evocative and hunger-stirring opening bite this year than the warm sesame madeleines with smoked and spiced butter at Emmett. They state the theme of this modern Mediterranean restaurant so clearly — channeling the flavors of the Levant through Euro techniques and local seasonality. Last spring, the butter was scented with the smoked cinnamon of ras el hanout alongside a dollop of rhubarb jam. By my revisit this fall, the butter was fragrant with vadouvan curry, accompanied by blueberry compote. Adding the optional scoop of caviar transformed it from an intriguing first nibble to an all-out indulgence of its own. — Craig LaBan

    Emmett, 161 W. Girard Ave., 215-207-0161, emmettphilly.com

    Pickled shrimp from My Loup.

    Pickled shrimp at My Loup

    If I could only order one thing from Alex Kemp’s menu at My Loup in Rittenhouse, it would be the raw bar’s pickled shrimp. Served in a mason jar with a pair of metal tongs, the dish features firm, pink shrimp bathed in a vinegary brine laced with basil leaves. Diners assemble the perfect bite, smearing a rich aioli on saltine crackers, to be topped with the bright shrimp and herbs — marrying salt, fat, and acidity in a way that’s simply addictive. I’m from the South (specifically the home of Mayport shrimp, with a minor-league baseball team named after the delicacy), so I know a thing or two about crustaceans and I won’t order them just anywhere. So trust me when I tell you that this is the spot and the dish. — Emily Bloch

    My Loup, 2005 Walnut St., 267-239-5925, myloupphl.com

    Umami fries at Mama-San, 226 N. Radnor Chester Rd., Wayne.

    Umami fries at Mama-San

    The Philly area has its share of outstanding fries: the gold standard Belgian frites from Monk’s Cafe, the duck-fat beauties from Royal Boucherie and Village Whiskey, the slender frites from Parc, and the batata harra-style potatoes from Suraya. Let’s add to the list the umami fries from Mama-San, a fast-casual Japanese newcomer across from Radnor High in Wayne. Straight-cut and fried in soybean oil, they’re glossed with a house blend of nori and spices such as shichimi togarashi, which adds briny, umami depth, and the side of seaweed aioli is a dip worth savoring. — M.K.

    Mama-San, 226 N. Radnor Chester Rd., Wayne, 484-580-6942, mamasan-restaurant.com

    The burnt tortilla mai tai at La Jefa.

    Burnt tortilla mai tai at La Jefa

    Here’s a bonus: a drink that behaves like a dish. On a recent Friday, I was lucky enough to nab a walk-in table at La Jefa, the vibey cafe-slash-cocktail bar that’s part of the revived Tequilas universe. I departed just slightly tipsy enough to not quite remember the food, but one drink — a burnt corn tortilla mai tai made with Cascahuin Blanco tequila, floral vermouth, rum, lime, and the essence of a corn tortilla — left an unforgettable impression. The cocktail leans smoky, with a sweet aftertaste not unlike the flavor of fresh-out-the-oven cornbread. For those who don’t imbibe, a burnt corn tortilla latte is available during the day. — Beatrice Forman

    La Jefa, 1605 Latimer St., 215-475-5500, lajefaphilly.com

    Vegetable-forward standouts

    The squash blossom tlayuda at Amá.

    Squash blossom tlayuda at Amá

    Do you want to see why I’m so excited about the modern Mexican cooking at Amá in Kensington? Behold chef Frankie Ramirez’s seasonal tlayuda for July, a paper-thin tortilla as broad as a pizza, crisped over the coals and topped with a brilliant yellow burst of zucchini flowers. It was a snapshot of summer sunshine, layered with herbaceous epazote pesto, melted Oaxaca cheese, and tangy dollops of buffalo milk burrata. Not only was it delicious, it was probably the most beautiful thing I ate all year. — C.L.

    Amá, 101 W. Oxford St., 215-425-5880, amaphl.com

    The vegan bean and smoked mushroom burger at Pietramala.

    The vegan burger at Pietramala

    Earlier this year, chef Ian Graye began selling his veggie burger once a month on Sundays, when his Northern Liberties restaurant is normally closed. At first glance, the burger appears to be an elemental patty made from coarsely ground smoked Mycopolitan comb tooth mushrooms, heirloom pinto beans, and charred onions — repurposed excess ingredients from Pietramala‘s dinner production. But this burger is anything but simple: These patties take three days to prepare, and much longer if you count the months it takes to ferment the house-made tamari, miso, and other larder items that add an impressively deep, layered savor. Once seared in a cast-iron skillet, the burgers get basted with an umami glaze — reduced bean pot liquor that’s been emulsified with more miso and tamari — lending each burger a juicy shine. With the burger set onto a seeded bun with ripe tomatoes, lettuce, onions, and a special sauce made with pickle brine, fermented chilies, and lots of garlic, it’s no wonder Pietramala’s burger pop-ups routinely draw long lines. Check Instagram for availability. — C.L.

    Pietramala, 614 N. Second St., 215-970-9541, pietramalaphl.com.

    A vegan combo with injera at Eshkol Ethiopian Cuisine.

    Vegan combo with injera at Eshkol Ethiopian Cuisine

    What to get at Eshkol, chef Chaltu Merga’s Ethiopian newcomer in Ardmore? I’d suggest ordering a combination (either vegan or meat-forward) so you can enjoy an assortment of rich stews and vibrant vegetable dishes served atop injera, the traditional teff flatbread used for scooping. Lovely staff will guide you and your pals to your choices. Here, I assembled key sir (beet and potatoes), gomen (collard greens), tikil gomen (cabbage), misir wot (lentils), ater kik alicha (yellow split peas), and, in the center, shiro (chickpeas). The meat dishes include such classics as doro wot (spicy chicken stew with egg), siga wot (beef in berbere), and minchet abish (spiced minced beef). — M.K.

    Eshkol Ethiopian Cuisine, 36 E. Lancaster Ave., Ardmore, 484-412-8044, eshkolcuisine.com

    Tostones nachos from Amy’s Pastelillos.

    Tostones nachos at Amy’s Pastelillos

    Over the course of scouting Philly’s best Puerto Rican and South American restaurants for The Inquirer’s 76 guide, I thought I had encountered plantains in all their forms: mashed into mofongo and mangú, caramelized into maduros, molded into petit cups for crackling pork. None, however, stood out more than the platter of tostones nachos from Amy’s Pastelillos, a Fishtown to-go counter better known for its namesake crispy Puerto Rican hand pies. The nachos are made from miniature tostones (to maximize surface area) and blanketed with layers of all the good stuff — cheese, pineapple salsa, jalapeños, pickled onion, and a hefty drizzle of passion fruit hot sauce. Talk about innovation that excites. — B.F.

    Amy’s Pastelillos, 2001 Memphis St., amyspastelillos.com

    Signature plates and mains

    Hot tamales at Honeysuckle.

    Hot tamales at Honeysuckle

    The audaciously over-the-top McDonald’s Money burger got all the hype and ink (including my own) at Honeysuckle. But the truly unforgettable dish from Omar Tate and Cybille St.Aude-Tate’s culinary exploration of the Black diaspora on North Broad Street are the hot tamales, inspired by the century-old Black food tradition of the Mississippi Delta. The chefs sub grits for Mexican-style masa inside the corn husks, which are stuffed with braised oxtail and wagyu beef cheeks, then simmer them in a cuminy beef broth spiked with house hot sauce. They’re served alongside chili-stewed limas, green tomato salsa verde, saltine crackers made of blue masa, and a cloudy shot of smoky corn milk and liquor. — C.L.

    Honeysuckle, 631 N. Broad St., 215-307-3316, honeysucklephl.com

    Hyderabadi curry paneer (with necessary water) at Madness of Masala.

    Hyderabadi paneer curry at Madness of Masala

    Sometimes I need a heater, a dish so spicy it recalibrates my brain like a good cleanse. And this year’s fire award goes to the Hyderabadi paneer curry at Madness of Masala near King of Prussia. This bowl of creamy cheese cubes comes bobbing in a pylon-orange gravy whose full-throttle heat — the result of red Gunturs and green Thai chilies — triggered a ringing sensation in my ears while the rest of my face momentarily went numb. The owner, taking pity, insisted on making me a milder version, despite my protests. But after a few bites, it was clear that this was a dish that expresses itself best when the spice is dialed up to a certain volume. It unlocks a frequency where your buzzing taste buds can sense other flavors flowing through: aromatic cardamom, clove, and coriander; sweet backnotes of cashews and almonds; the soothing richness of cream; and the punctuating tang of vinegar for balance. I didn’t want to miss a note. So I mopped my brow and kept eating. — C.L.

    Madness of Masala, 2851 Ridge Pike, Trooper, 484-235-8003, madnessofmasala.com

    Roast duck congee with a side of youtiao at M Kee.

    Roast duck congee at M Kee

    Chinatown has several family-run operations that serve succulent roast duck over silken congee or fragrant, fluffy, dripping-covered rice, or crispy-skinned pork along with thin noodles and gossamer wontons. Somehow, M Kee manages to serve the best of all the above, while quelling a relentless takeout line at lunch. M Kee puts just a bit more care into each item — the duck is carefully diced and its congee is positively packed with the meatiest bits. A croissant-like youtiao comes on the side of the steaming bowl of congee; the flaky sticks of fried dough may be the best I’ve ever had, with strands of fresh ginger and a staggering amount of duck in every bite. — Kiki Aranita

    M Kee, 1002 Arch St., 215-238-8883, instagram.com/mkeechinatown

    Huarache Teresita at Tlali in Upper Darby.

    Huarache Teresita at Tlali

    Puebla-born chef Alberto Sandoval, who worked for two decades in Philly fine-dining kitchens such as Lacroix, Striped Bass, and Volvér, cooks family recipes at Tlali, the modest, cash-only BYOB he opened over the summer with his brother Efrain in a rowhouse in Upper Darby. Total charmer. Sandoval cuts no corners on the menu. Besides tasty tacos al pastor (whose pork is tenderized by his father’s secret marinade recipe), you must not miss the huarache Teresita, a seared 12-ounce rib-eye with cactus salad and charred tomatillo salsa atop the thick corn base. — M.K.

    Tlali, 7219 West Chester Pike, Upper Darby, 484-466-3593, instagram.com/tlalirestaurante

    Shrimp casino at the Sergeantsville Inn.

    Shrimp casino at the Sergeantsville Inn

    The arrival of former Momofuku Ko chef Sean Gray to the Sergeantsville Inn, just north of Lambertville, is one of the best reasons I found this year to drive more than an hour to dinner. And while there were so many incredible dishes on the menu of this revitalized 18th-century stone tavern (fried chicken, grilled prime steaks), the shrimp casino is one you can’t miss. Head-on Spanish blue prawns are split open, stuffed with garlicky breadcrumbs, and roasted over a Big Green Egg grill. You’ll need to dive in and get messy with these majestic crustaceans to pry that tender meat off the shells with your teeth — or simply crunch away, and eat the whole thing. — C.L.

    Sergeantsville Inn, 601 Rosemont Ringoes Rd., Sergeantsville, N.J., 609-397-3700, sergeantsvilleinn.com

    A platter including pork ribs, brisket, and jerk chicken at Big Swerve’s BBQ.

    Ribs, brisket, and jerk chicken at Big Swerve’s BBQ

    However you get to Big Swerve’s BBQ in Westville, Gloucester County, it would be wise to follow Google Maps, which will send you not to the street address but down an alley and around a parking lot that will swing you perilously close to a brick building. In front of you will be the 20-foot converted shipping container that houses “Big Bottom Betty,” pitmaster Stephen Clark’s offset smoker, fashioned out of a 500-gallon propane tank. Three people can share a combo, such as the Lil Dip Two, a generous sampler of three proteins (let’s say brisket, chicken, and three or four ribs, depending on size), plus three medium sides, including candied yams, cornbread, collard greens, macaroni and cheese, and “mean beans,” a combo of ground beef and baked beans. That’s smoke, sauce, and generosity done right. — M.K.

    Big Swerve’s BBQ, 201 Broadway, Westville, 856-349-7469, bigswervesbbq.com

    Special Dominó arepa by Puyero Venezuelan Flavor.

    Special Dominó arepa at Puyero Venezuelan Flavor

    One of my biggest pet peeves is when the bites of a sandwich are uneven, leaving you wanting for one ingredient while going too heavy on another. That doesn’t happen at Puyero in Queen Village, a Venezuelan restaurant known for churning out oversized arepas packed with fillings. Each of Puyero’s cornmeal pockets is excellent, but my favorite is the most basic: the Special Dominó, filled with heaps of avocado, slightly-stewed black bean, sweet plantains, and queso de mano, a soft white mozzarella-esque cheese. All my favorite things, in one arepa. — B.F.

    Puyero Venezuelan Flavor, 524 S. Fourth St., 267-928-4584, puyeroflavor.com

    The Houdini pizza from Del Rossi’s Cheesesteak & Pizza Co.

    The Houdini pizza at Del Rossi’s

    Getting my favorite tomato pie riff in Philly has just gotten a whole lot harder, thanks to Del Rossi’s well-deserved Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand. Del Rossi’s 16-inch Houdini pizza layers provolone beneath a plum tomato sauce, then gets a flourish of aged Parmesan post-bake. Its crusts never flop or sag under the weight of toppings. The real magic, however, is how the parm mixes with the tomato sauce to create a tang with an umami bite. Eating at home? Add a drizzle of hot honey and thank me later. — B.F.

    Del Rossi’s Cheesesteak & Pizza Co., 538 N. Fourth St., 267-817-7007, delrossisrestaurant.com

    A grilled corzetti pasta coin cradles a slice of American wagyu beef and Cooper Sharp foam at Vetri Cucina.

    A pasta cheesesteak coin at Vetri

    The multicourse “pasta omakase” chef Marc Vetri serves to just six lucky diners each month upstairs at Vetri Cucina has become one of the most coveted culinary events of the moment. The meals themselves may reach a limited audience, but they’ve become a creative laboratory for dishes that often make the restaurant’s main menu. I tasted some extraordinary technical wonders there, like the duck confit culurgiones in orange sauce wrapped in carob dough, or the airy gnocchi stuffed with lobster mousse. But the most unexpected bite was a clever tribute to Vetri’s Philadelphia roots: a tiny cheesesteak of wagyu beef flashed over the coals, then wrapped inside a grilled corzetti pasta coin like a mini-taco alongside roasted onion and foamy flourish of aerated Cooper Sharp cheese. So small, so vivid, so fun. It’s also destined for occasional future cameos as an amuse-bouche in the dining room or a featured bite at special events. — C.L.

    Vetri Cucina, 1312 Spruce St., 215-732-3478, vetricucina.com

    Desserts and other endings

    Cheeseburger dessert with a chocolate sundae at Roxanne.

    Cheeseburger and chocolate sundae at Roxanne

    It’s been a big year for bold riffs on cheeseburgers. But Roxanne’s Alexandra Holt is the first who’s ever served me a cheeseburger for dessert, floating the somewhat radical theory that “dessert” simply implies an ending, not necessarily something sweet. The burger itself was savory incarnate, a gushingly rare patty on a sesame-seeded house-baked bun layered with a thick slice of Red Rock blue cheddar cheese, the crunch of raw onions, and creamy mayo. For the dessert doubters, though, it also comes with a powerhouse traditional sweet: a chocolate sundae drizzled with an intense fudge sauce made from 66% dark chocolate that Holt produces from cacao pods she grinds herself at her Queen Village restaurant. This is, in fact, a classic fast-food combo, and now it’s the happy meal of my dreams. — C.L.

    Roxanne, 607 S. Second St., roxannephilly.com

    Cherry khinkali at Kinto.

    Cherry khinkali at Kinto

    This off-menu (but readily available) dessert from Kinto, the Georgian BYOB in Fishtown, reminded me of eating diner blintzes rolled with sweet cream and heaped with maraschino cherries. Here, the classic flavor combo gets the dumpling treatment: A warm khinkali, tinted pink with raspberry juice, is filled with a sour cherry-and-cheese mixture. The dessert is as beautiful as it is comforting. — B.F.

    Kinto, 1144 Frankford Ave., 267-857-9500, kintophilly.com

    The Caramelia at 1906, the restaurant at Longwood Gardens.

    Caramelia at Longwood Gardens’ 1906

    Paying homage to Kennett Square’s reputation as the “Mushroom Capital of the World,” the kitchen team at Longwood Gardens’ 1906 restaurant adds funghi wherever it can — even in dessert. The Caramelia, easily its most Instagrammable menu item, is almost too enchanting to eat. It stands vertically on the plate in all its hemispherical glory, resembling the red-topped mushrooms of storybooks or Super Mario Bros. But once you will yourself to break into the decadent chocolate mousse mold, you’re greeted with flavors of espresso and caramel. It’s finished with a playful cocoa “soil,” almost like a grown-up take on the dirt pies with gummy worms of our youth. Beyond the novelty, it’s a not-too-heavy but chocolatey way to cap off a meal. — E.B.

    1906 at Longwood Gardens, 1001 Longwood Rd., Kennett Square, 610-388-5290, longwoodgardens.org/dine/1906

    Apple crumb pie at Flying Monkey Bakery.

    Apple crumb pie at Flying Monkey Bakery

    In the middle of Reading Terminal Market, Flying Monkey Bakery sells the platonic ideal of a homestyle apple pie (and also really good whoopie pies). Although the apple crumb pie is a standard 9 inches, it feels more substantial, thanks to a hefty all-butter shell and a granola-esque oat-crumb topping. You get plenty of cinnamon in the rich, thick filling. It tastes just as good cold as it does warm and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. — B.F.

    Flying Monkey Bakery, Reading Terminal Market, 1146 Arch St., 215-928-0340, flyingmonkeybakery.com

  • Suraya is temporarily closed after a rooftop fire next door in Fishtown

    Suraya is temporarily closed after a rooftop fire next door in Fishtown

    Suraya, the Michelin-recognized Lebanese restaurant in Fishtown, will temporarily close Friday after a nearby rooftop fire left the restaurant without gas.

    The Philadelphia Fire Department arrived to fire on the roof of a two-story building on the 1500 block of Frankford Avenue late Thursday night. The department controlled the fire within 20 minutes and there were no reported injuries. The cause was under investigation.

    However, Suraya reported that its building was still without gas service and wouldn’t open until the service was restored.

    “We are incredibly grateful that our team was unharmed in the fire. We are temporarily without gas, so we cannot open the restaurant. The Suraya team will be working with local authorities to support their ongoing investigation and appreciates the community’s support,” said a spokesperson for Defined Hospitality, the restaurant group that includes Suraya.

    Halabi kebabs and the samke harra are pictured at Suraya in Philadelphia’s Fishtown section on Tuesday, Aug. 11, 2020.

    Updates on the restaurant opening will be posted on social media at @surayaphilly.

    Suraya, named after the sibling-cowners Nathalie Richan and Roland Kassis’ grandmother in Beirut, was just recognized by the Michelin Guide for its welcoming presence, rich Middle East and Levant-inspired menu, and expansive offerings from the bakery and shop up front to its open kitchen and outdoor dining area.

  • These Philly bars are making their own liqueurs, from amaro to nocino

    These Philly bars are making their own liqueurs, from amaro to nocino

    Pennsylvania-made amaro — bittersweet liqueurs made by macerating herbs and spices — is a nascent booze category. But its production isn’t restricted to larger distilleries like Philadelphia Distilling, which makes the popular Vigo Amaro. Bartenders around the city are making their own in-house.

    A Negroni at Percy, in Philadelphia, Dec. 10, 2025.

    The practice of making in-house amaro is a result of a relative lack of access. In Pennsylvania, amari are often expensive and the selection comparatively small due to what the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board makes available. On the Fine Wine and Good Spirits website, there are only 41 amari listed, compared to 838 tequila and tequila-based drinks available.

    Some bars, like Borromini and Le Virtù, maintain lists of 70-plus amari by sourcing them through what’s called Special Liquor Orders, or as Le Virtù’s general manager and beverage director Chris O’Brien explains, “something that is brought in from a smaller importer instead of getting it directly from the state.”

    But bars with a limited winery, brewery, or distillery licenses — a vastly more affordable and increasingly popular path to a liquor license than a full restaurant license — can only serve beer, wine, and liquor that’s produced (or at least bottled) in Pennsylvania. That winnows the PLCB-stocked options from 41 to two, giving some establishments good reason to make their own amari.

    Amaro Spritz at Percy, in Philadelphia, Dec. 10, 2025.

    The family of liqueurs known as amaro (Italian for “bitter”) are made from steeping botanicals in alcohol. They can be enjoyed before dinner (aperitivo) or after (digestivo). There are numerous types and subdivisions, like fernet. Nocino is a similar liqueur made from walnuts. Here in Philly, ambitious bartenders are making all kinds of variations.

    Almanac

    At Almanac in Old City, which is tucked above Ogawa’s omakase counter, large mason jars filled with witchy green-black liquid cover the shelving on one entire wall. Lead bartender Rob Scott brews his own amazake, a spirit typically made from fermenting rice with koji mold spores, and steeps mostly foraged nuts and leaves in Everclear and brandy for Almanac’s unique, house bitters.

    The Juban District, a take on a Manhattan, made with black walnut nocino at Almanac.

    Spinning one jar of amaro from October in his hands, studying the aromatics still steeping within, Scott recited each of them, “Fig leaf, apples of some sort, trifoliate orange, yomogi which is a cousin of mugwort, chrysanthemum, rosemary. We keep a book downstairs where we weigh and measure everything and write them down. Otherwise it’s easy to forget.”

    They’re all autumnal flavors, and they steep for months in Laird’s Jersey Lightning, an un-aged apple brandy.

    The jars of amaro sit next to about a dozen similar jars of nocino, made from local black walnuts. “You can taste a bit of astringency with nocino, but it goes away with time,” Scott said. “But if you make an amaro with, say, cardoons or wormwood, those will always be bitter.”

    The nocino currently sitting on Almanac’s shelves were started on June 24, when their team harvested the nuts in Merchantville with Danny Childs, sliced them in half, put them all into 2-liter mason jars, and covered them with Everclear, a neutral grain spirit. They steeped until Thanksgiving, when the nocino was tempered with water and sweetened with Demerara sugar.

    The black walnut nocino at Almanac.

    Scott offered a sample of what he called “hot nocino,” used for Almanac’s Manhattan. “We only put the nocino into cocktails because the other flavors in the cocktail temper its hotness. In order to get a true, sipping nocino, I would let this age for another six to eight months for it to become a more evolved drink. You can’t really over-extract [the walnuts], so we use them when they feel right.”

    Almanac, 310 Market St., Second Floor, 215-238-5757, almanacphilly.com

    Percy Diner and Bar

    Percy Diner and Bar’s limited winery license means they can only serve Pennsylvania-made amari. So they decided to make their own.

    Percy, which is part of the Forin group, serves Forin’s black currant and cherry fruit wines and their oaked ube and ube honey wines straight ($10) and blends them into cocktails.

    A Negroni at Percy, in Philadelphia, Dec. 10, 2025.

    They’ve used the honey wine as a base for their amaro, but more recently, the in-house selection is made with mostly neutral grain spirits. Lead bartender Sean Goldinger is hoping to slowly cultivate a series of house-made amari to feature in cocktails. At the moment he has made both a straightforward amaro with bitter orange peel, angelica root, fresh orange peel, star anise, hibiscus, gentian, wormwood, and sweetened with Demerara sugar, as well as an aperitivo that follows a similar recipe but is sweetened with a syrup made from clarified fresh-squeezed orange juice.

    Housemade Amaros at Percy, in Philadelphia, Dec. 10, 2025.

    The aperitivo is wonderfully citrusy and significantly less bitter than the amaro. Goldinger also makes a house riff on Benedictine, a French herbal liqueur typically consisting of a couple dozen secret ingredients, with Stateside vodka and Dad’s Hat whiskey, Fell to Earth sweet vermouth, and Peychaud’s bitters. It’s infused with cinnamon, cloves, fresh thyme, lemon and orange peel, vanilla, cardamom, wormwood, fresh ginger, star anise, and angelica root, sweetened with both Demerara sugar and honey.

    Percy Diner and Bar, 1700 N. Front St., 215-975-0020, percyphl.com

    The bar area at Le Virtú on Feb. 20, 2025.

    Le Virtù

    While the majority of Le Virtù’s robust menu of amari and other liqueurs is sourced from Italy and Eastern European countries, the East Passyunk restaurant also offers some house-made options. Three house-made digestivi stand out: acqua santa (an agrumi, Italian for “citrus fruits”), genziana (a traditional Abruzzese gentian digestivo), and caffè, a coffee liqueur. These aren’t amari, as they use far less ingredients, but they serve the same purpose — helping you to digest the pasta dinner you’ve just indulged in.

    For $15, you can get a generous pour of one of these digestivi. They’re all made by owner Francis Cratil Cretarola’s brother Fred, who’s been making amari since 2013, when he attended a wedding in Abruzzo, in the town of Pacentro and “became drinking buddies with a guy who taught him,” according to Francis. “Amari are much more complex, with 10 to 12 different ingredients, but these are the things Abruzzese are making in their homes,” he said.

    Acqua santa is a light golden yellow. Le Virtu’s beverage director, Chris O’Brien, referred to it as a “high-octane limoncello.” It’s made with lemon, grapefruit, orange, and lime. With less sugar than limoncello, it’s much more nuanced in its citrus flavors.

    For the caffè, Fred takes fresh espresso grounds and infuses them in Everclear for 30 to 40 days, turning them each week to make sure they’re evenly distributed, Francis explained.

    The genziana is clear, amber-hued, and bracingly bitter, but still very balanced. It opens with a bright citrusy burst and is made bitter with gentian root, a common ingredient in amari. The root, brought to the U.S. by Francis’ friends who live near the Maiella mountains, steeps in Trebbiano or Pecorino wine from Abruzzo. Fred adds some lemon peel and coffee beans to it, along with Everclear.

    Le Virtù, 1927 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5626, levirtu.com

    Products from Fell to Earth Vermouth.

    Fell to Earth

    You may recognize Tim Kweeder’s name from his viral concoction, Dumpster Juice, a line of vermouths born at Bloomsday, but his making of liqueurs has come a long way. He’s the producer, bottler, salesperson, and delivery person for Fell to Earth, Philly’s first vermoutherie. It’s technically both a winery and a distillery: “The state made us get both licenses,” said Kweeder.

    Fell to Earth’s liqueurs can be found at about 40 different Philly bars. Kweeder sources fresh ingredients for his fernet, like nepitella and chamomile, from Green Meadow Farms. He sweetens them with blackstrap molasses from Bucks County, then blends them with a neutral grain spirit and lets them sit for a week before blending the tinctures.

    The base of his amaro starts with spruce tips from Green Meadow. “There’s a two-week window where you can forage for them, between late March and April. I throw them all into a big vat with neutral grain spirit … That becomes a base for amaro, and I build on top of that, blending in other tinctures,” he said.

    “Though most of our ingredients are from the Mid-Atlantic, we have a tiny ‘spice cabinet’ of traditional amaro ingredients that don’t grow here, like gentian, cinchona (a bark that yields quinine), etc. which we use like chefs would use seasonings. We get these locally from Penn Herb Co.”

    If you can’t decide whether you’re looking for a nocino or an amaro, you may find your solution in Fell to Earth’s Nocinaro — a hybrid of the two made from green walnuts, walnut leaf, black walnut syrup, trifoliate orange, wormwood, blackstrap molasses, and a gentle seasoning of cinchona bark and gentian root.

    Available for delivery in Philadelphia (four-bottle minimum), shipping outside the city available via Vinoshipper; felltoearth.com

  • This wine tastes like the cherries found at the bottom of a good Manhattan

    This wine tastes like the cherries found at the bottom of a good Manhattan

    Port is one of the most unusual wines on earth, and one uniquely well-suited to the long nights and cold weather of this season. As a fully sweet and fortified red wine, everything about port is riddled with contradictions. But the best approach is not to try to make sense of it — it’s to simply pour yourself a small glass to enjoy with friends and family, whether with cheeses, with desserts, or as a liqueur-like dessert unto itself.

    What’s so confounding about port wines? They have always had a reputation as an expensive indulgence of the elite, despite being one of the most affordable fine wines in existence, thanks to their small portion size. Each 750-milliliter bottle contains 10 servings instead of the usual five. Port is also typecast as an after-dinner drink, since it tastes so divine with everything from blue cheeses to crème brûlée to chocolate. Yet it makes a delicious apéritif as well, on the rocks or with a splash of seltzer or tonic.

    Port also has a long and strong association with British culture, down to the family names of the major port wineries, like this one from W. & J. Graham’s. However, it is a Portuguese wine through and through. The grapes for port wines may be grown in the rugged and rural mountains of Portugal’s upper Douro Valley, near the Spanish border, but the critical stages of port winemaking always take place in the coastal city of Oporto, over an hour’s drive away.

    This example is what’s known as a “reserve” port, in the red ruby style. The Six Grapes brand is among the most world’s most popular and recognizable ports, one that is designed to taste more fresh and youthful than most. Its flavors evoke ripe cherries, plums, and pomegranate, with a concentration and lusciousness of texture that eclipses dry red wines. Its sweetness and booziness is on a par with that of the dark amarena cherry found at the bottom of a good Manhattan, with all the warm fuzzy feelings they bring.

    Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port

    Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port

    Portugal, 20% ABV

    PLCB Item # 8173, on sale for $25.99 through Jan. 4 (regularly $26.99)

    Also available at: Canal’s in Berlin, N.J. ($21.99; canalsofberlin.com), Wine Warehouse in Clementon, Voorhees, and Sicklerville, N.J. ($22.99; winewarehousenj.com), and Canal’s Liquors in Pennsauken, N.J. ($24.99; canalsliquors.com)

  • The Boozy Mutt, a Fairmount dog-friendly bar, will be closing after two years in business

    The Boozy Mutt, a Fairmount dog-friendly bar, will be closing after two years in business

    Another Philadelphia bar has gone to the dogs.

    Fairmount’s pup-friendly pub the Boozy Mutt is closing its doors Jan. 3 after just over two years in business, co-owners Sam and Allison Mattiola announced via Instagram on Monday.

    “After much thought, we made the difficult decision to close the Boozy Mutt … What began as a dream became something truly special because of our community — our guests, our team, and all the good mutts who walked through our doors,” read the post, which has been shared over 1,400 times. Nearly every comment is from a dejected dog parent wishing for another round of beer and belly rubs.

    The Mattiolas, who are married, opened the Boozy Mutt at 2639 Poplar St. in December 2023, transforming former rock-and-roll dive the North Star into roughly 7,000 square feet for pooches and their people to roam across two floors and an outdoor patio. The venture was inspired by pandemic-era trips to a dog park with Bernadoodle Buba, where the couple would camp out with lawn chairs and a pack of beers to make friends.

    At the Mutt, as regulars called it, dogs are allowed to mingle off-leash under the supervision of aptly-named “Rufferees” who monitor and facilitate healthy play. All owners had to register their pet’s vaccinations before gaining access to the space, which includes a self-service dog wash room, outdoor TVs, a summertime-only puppy pool, and a menu of bite-sized “human grade” dog treats.

    Tess Bodden (left) and Jenn Maher pose with their pet shih tzus Hazel, Hendrix, and Kelce at the Boozy Mutt, a popular third space for dog parents in Fairmount.

    The bar felt like a version of Cheers for pet parents almost immediately, regulars told The Inquirer, thanks in part to a rotation of events that ranged from weekly quizzos to breed meetups and Pitch-A-Friend nights for singles. A monthly membership was $40, while an annual Mutt subscription cost $360.

    The bar had upward of 100 regular members, Sam Mattiola said, all of whom will receive prorated refunds in the coming days. “People would tell us that this was their third space, that they go home, they go to work, and they go to the Boozy Mutt,” he said. “We walk away with our heads held high knowing that we achieved our goal of creating a place that made people feel at home.”

    And yet, the Mattiolas said, running a bar that catered to dogs and their owners in equal measure proved increasingly challenging as the cost of rent, insurance, food, and alcohol continued to increase. While dog-friendly bars and beer gardens have taken off in the South, the concept has had mixed success in Philly: Manayunk dog bar Bark Social closed abruptly last year after its parent company declared bankruptcy. Its replacement, an outpost of the Atlanta-based company Fetch Park, opened in November.

    “It’s a pretty overhead-intensive business model that we have, and it’s just gotten pretty hard to make the math work after the last couple of years,” Sam Mattiola explained. “There was just always something new hitting [us] in the face.”

    Darby, a 5-year-old shih tzu, sits on a picnic table at the Boozy Mutt in Fairmount during an August 2025 breed meetup.

    The Boozy Mutt’s 26 employees were informed of the impending closure before the announcement went public Monday, Allison Mattiola said, and the couple has spent the last three days putting together job recommendations. Neither she or her husband had worked in hospitality prior, and the couple has no immediate plans to revive the business elsewhere.

    Where is Fido to go?

    Already, the Boozy Mutt’s impending closure has been ruff — pun intended — for Fairmount pet parents.

    “It’s a loss for us and a loss for the dogs,” said Sarah Kuwik, whose 2½-year-old pooch Willie “grew up at the Mutt.”

    Kuwik started taking what she described as her “50-pound mutt” to the bar almost immediately after it opened. It has given Willie a social life most adults would envy.

    Willie goes on dates at the Mutt with his girlfriend Bea, a 3-year-old golden retriever who clings to him like a magnet. And in June, Willie had a joint WrestleMania-themed birthday party with his best friend Levon, also a mutt with boundless energy.

    Willie (left) poses with his golden retriever girlfriend Bea (right) and his best pup friend Levon at the Boozy Mutt, where the trio first met.

    Kuwik doesn’t know how Willie will handle the news: “He’ll pull us toward [the Boozy Mutt] every time we’re on Poplar [Street] … it’s going to be very confusing.”

    The Boozy Mutt is also what drew Valerie Speare to Fairmount in the first place. Speare put an offer on her current rowhouse a mere four blocks from the bar after grabbing brunch there in between open houses last spring. Now she goes to the Mutt four times a week with her pugs Lily and Winston, who are both deeply playful (and deeply codependent).

    The Mutt “is exactly the kind of thing I want in a neighborhood,” said Speare, who has lived in the area for a year-and-a-half. “Where else can I go have a mimosa on a Saturday morning and have my dog sitting in my lap?”

    Valerie Speare, of Fairmount, and her pugs Winston and Lily lounge with Chihuahua pals at the Boozy Mutt. Speare takes her pugs to the bar four times a week, she estimates.

    For others, the bar has fostered connections that extend beyond puppy playdates. Katherine Ross has lived in Fairmount since 2004, but has seen the neighborhood — and the people in it — with new eyes, thanks to her 4-year-old pug Hoagie.

    At the Mutt, Hoagie likes to beg for bites of Old Bay and truffle-coated fries or splash in the puppy pool. Ross, meanwhile, has enjoyed getting to meet her neighbors.

    “I’ve lived in this neighborhood for over 20 years, and to be honest with you, I didn’t know all that many people until I got a dog,” Ross said. “Having a place like the Boozy Mutt brought a lot of friendships together.”

  • The 125-plus restaurant openings that defined Philadelphia this year

    The 125-plus restaurant openings that defined Philadelphia this year

    Philadelphia’s restaurant landscape in 2025 was shaped by a combination of ambition and depth: large, market-moving openings at the top end (Borromini, Dancerobot, Uchi, Honeysuckle, Tequilas/La Jefa); suburban newcomers that mattered (Michael, Neos Americana, Salt & Stone); and dozens of smaller additions that boosted neighborhood options.

    All told, I count more than 125 newcomers, not including the ubiquitous Wonder locations and multiunit bakery franchises like Paris Baguette and Tous les Jours.

    The hottest areas were Rittenhouse and Kensington in the city, and Conshohocken in the suburbs.

    Top Openings: Philadelphia

    Center City / Rittenhouse / Fitler Square / North Philadelphia

    Amma: The polished South Indian restaurant has relocated about two blocks away into more sumptuous quarters at 15th and Walnut, picking up a glassed-in bar.

    Borromini: Stephen Starr’s hotly anticipated Italian trattoria anchors the north side of Rittenhouse Square.

    The Bread Room: A bakery-cafe hybrid from High Street Hospitality on Chestnut Street, around the corner from High Street and Jefferson Hospital, that focuses on laminated pastries, breads, and other daytime fare.

    Dancerobot: Chefs Jesse Ito and Justin Bacharach’s sequel to Royal Izakaya is a sultry hideaway on Sansom Street in Rittenhouse.

    The dining room at Honeysuckle.

    Honeysuckle: Chefs Omar Tate and Cybille St. Aude-Tate have a new stage for Southern cooking rooted in Black culinary traditions on North Broad Street, building on what they started with West Philly’s Honeysuckle Provisions.

    Kissho House: Chef Jeff Chen’s refined, two-level Japanese experience in Rittenhouse offers omakase downstairs and an izakaya on street level on Locust.

    Kitchen + Kocktails by Kevin Kelley: This high-energy Avenue of the Arts destination offers Southern comfort food, cocktails, and nightlife vibes.

    Pine Street Grill: Chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp offer American comfort food on Fitler Square as a neighborhood-style counterpoint to Her Place Supper Club and My Loup.

    Tequila’s/La Jefa: The Suro family’s white-tablecloth Mexican restaurant on Locust has returned with two additional concepts: an agave-forward bar and all-day cafe.

    Uchi Philadelphia: The national Japanese restaurant raises the bar for luxury sushi on Sansom Street in Rittenhouse.

    Fishtown/Kensington/Northern Liberties

    Amá: Chef Frankie Ramirez’s modern Mexican restaurant on Front Street showcases regional cooking with a serious mezcal and tequila program.

    El Chingón Fishtown: Chef Carlos Aparicio’s second location of his acclaimed South Philadelphia taqueria is a beer-garden setting on Frankford Avenue.

    Evan Snyder grilling a halibut at Emmett.

    Emmett: Chef Evan Snyder is winning plaudits for his Levantine-inspired cooking at the former Modo Mio/Cadence/Primary Plant Based space on Girard Avenue.

    Fleur’s: Chef George Sabatino cooks French dishes in an intimate setting in a former furniture store on Front Street.

    Forest & Main Fishtown: The Ambler brewery’s first city tasting room, in the former Cheu Fishtown on Frankford, features creative bar food from chef Dane DeMarco (Gass & Main).

    Haraz Coffee House’s Fishtown location.

    Haraz Coffee House: A Yemeni coffeehouse chain comes to Girard Avenue spotlighting coffee culture and serving as a community hub; its first Philadelphia location opened in University City.

    Mana Modern Chinese: Modern Chinese BYOB on Second Street in Northern Liberties blends playful dim sum and inventive takes on classics in a mod setting.

    Fairmount / Francisville

    Javelin: This low-key Fairmount Avenue sushi bar offers a full cocktail bar.

    Manong: Tabachoy chef Chance Anies channels Outback for his Filipino steakhouse on Fairmount.

    Stephen’s Cafe: This kosher dairy cafe attached to the Chabad of Fairmount, in the former Rembrandt’s, features baking by Shevy Sputz, who also sells her babka, knishes, and other Eastern European baked goods at the local farmer’s market.

    South Philadelphia / East Passyunk / Graduate Hospital

    Banshee: This compact American bistro on South Street from Cheu/Bing Bing alums serves casually sophisticated plates, wines, and cocktails.

    Bomb Bomb Bar: Zeppoli/Palizzi chef Joey Baldino revived a classic South Philly corner bar, infusing it with an Italian seafood menu and plenty of downtown energy.

    Sao: Chef Phila Lorn and his wife, Rachel, are behind this snug Cambodian-inspired seafood bar on East Passyunk, a sequel to their hit no-rules noodle spot, Mawn.

    Supérette: This chill European-style wine bar/cafe/bottle shop on East Passyunk from Chloé Grigri, Vincent Stipo, and Owen Kamihira emphasizes simple plates and easy elegance.

    Tesiny: Caviar/lox queen Lauren Biederman’s chic seafood/cocktail bar in South Philly.

    University City / West Philadelphia

    Gather Food Hall: This food hall across from 30th Street Station showcases local operators.

    Haraz Coffee House: (See Fishtown.)

    Namaste Indian Bistro: This Indian-Himalayan bistro at 46th and Lancaster is an offshoot of the original in Warminster; there’s also a new location in Collingswood.

    Out West: Down North Pizza’s sequel at 52nd and Walnut combines an ambitious coffee program with breakfast and lunch sandwiches in a community-friendly space.

    Northwest Philadelphia

    The Borscht Belt: The Bucks Jewish deli has opened a counter at Chestnut Hill’s Market at the Fareway.

    Petite Matines: This Chestnut Hill cafe aims at families and kids activities; it’s on the original Bethlehem Pike site of “parent” eatery Matines Cafe, which moved into roomier digs nearby on Highland Avenue.

    Top Openings: Pennsylvania & New Jersey Suburbs

    Burtons Grill & Bar (Wayne): This polished, New England-rooted American grill features a long cocktail list and an unusually thorough gluten-free/allergy-friendly playbook.

    Eataly (King of Prussia Mall): The giant Italian marketplace combines multiple restaurants, retail counters, and specialty grocery under one roof.

    Bar at Gloria Sports & Spirits in Warrington.

    Gloria Sports & Spirits (Warrington): Tresini chef Brad Daniels and partners deliver the sports bar experience with a noteworthy pizza menu at the Shops at Valley Square.

    Hank’s Place (Chadds Ford): Rebuilt after a devastating 2021 flood, this Brandywine mainstay is a cozy diner known for old-school favorites and Wyeth sightings.

    Johnny’s Pizza (Wayne): John Bisceglie has expanded his Bryn Mawr favorite to a strip center near Wayne’s farmer’s market.

    Jolene’s (West Chester): This low-lit French-leaning dinner spot is built around cocktails and small plates, delivering date-night vibes.

    L’Olivo Trattoria (Exton): Chef Francis and Nui Pascal of the French-Italian charmer Birchrunville Store Cafe and Butterscotch Pastry Shop offer Northern Italian fare and a full bar in cozy digs at Eagleview Town Center.

    Maris Mediterranean (Media): Mediterranean seafood drives this refined yet casual restaurant-bar from Loïc Barnieu (La Belle Epoque, Sterling Pig Brewery).

    Michael Coastal Italian Grille (Collingswood): Chef Michael DeLone leans harder into coastal Italian cuisine after rebranding the upscale Nunzio’s and freshening the environs with new hardwood.

    Namaste Indian Bistro (Collingswood): See West Philadelphia.

    Neos Americana (Conshohocken): Kurt Benkurt and Annalise Long have upgraded their Daniel’s into a refined Mediterranean-leaning dinner destination and bar focusing on mezze, grilled meats, and seafood.

    Peter Chang (King of Prussia): Peter Chang, once chef for the Chinese Embassy in Washington, D.C., offers Sichuan classics.

    The Rabbit Hole (Conshohocken): Small plates and cocktails are offered in a chic, bunny-fied corner bar setting.

    Revell Hall (Burlington): Chef Joey Sergentakis is behind this modern restaurant on the Delaware riverfront, the former Cafe Gallery, billed as “semifine dining.”

    Roy Rogers (Cherry Hill): This nostalgic fast-casual chain marked its return to the Philadelphia-South Jersey area, Fixin’s Bar and all.

    Bar at Salt & Stone in Conshohocken.

    Salt & Stone (Conshohocken): Demetrios Pappas is behind this polished restaurant emphasizing seasonal Greek-American cooking and craft cocktails.

    Thymari Mediterranean Gastro-Taverna (Swedesboro): This Greek-inspired BYOB offers taverna-style dishes, with a wine list sourced through Kennedy Cellars.

    Triple Crown (Radnor): Fearless Restaurants has gone with an equestrian theme for its restaurant/event space at the Radnor Hotel.

    Other Noteworthy Openings

    Philadelphia

    Amina (Northern Liberties): Felicia Wilson and chef Darryl Harmon moved their West African-inspired Southern spot from Old City into the former SIN.

    Avana (Center City): Comfort food and American classics from Felicia Wilson and chef Darryl Harmon at Park Towne Place on the Parkway.

    Cafe Duskaia (South Philadelphia): An Italian Market coffee shop and roaster highlighting Nicaraguan coffee sourced from women coffee farmers.

    Casa Borinqueña (Kensington): Lourdes “Lulu” Marquez-Nau owns this casual Puerto Rican spot serving plant-based versions of classics like pinchos, arroz con gandules, and maduros.

    Casa Oui in Queen Village.

    Casa Oui (Queen Village): Chef Isabel Nocelo and C.J. Cheyne’s all-day café-restaurant blends French pastry energy with a nighttime menu that leans Mexican, plus a full bar.

    Céline (Center City): It’s a cocktail lounge and nightlife-focused venue built around DJ-driven vibes and a reservation-led bar program; a Korean barbecue restaurant counterpart, HYO, is on the way upstairs.

    Cerveau (North Philadelphia): Pizza Brain cofounder Joe Hunter created this roomy space at the 990 Spring Garden building to focus on sourdough pizza, handmade pastas, and small plates, with a full bar.

    Cormorant (Kensington): This corner bar from the partners behind Vintage and Garage offers an amaro-leaning cocktail list, classic drafts, and no-proof options.

    DaVinci & Yu (South Philadelphia): Marc Grika offers a playful mashup of Italian American and Chinese American comfort food on East Passyunk.

    The bar at Doho in Mount Airy.

    Doho (Mount Airy): This cozy bistro, inside Catering by Design, fuses Latin American and East Asian flavors, with a full bar.

    Fetch (Manayunk): A dog park with a bar and a light food menu has succeeded Bark Social on Main Street.

    First Daughter Oyster & Co. (Old City): Felicia Wilson and chef Darryl Harmon offer New England-style seafood at the Renaissance Philadelphia Downtown Hotel.

    Good Hatch Eatery (West Philadelphia): The popular South Philly bruncherie has expanded to 48th and Pine.

    Griddle & Rice (South Philadelphia): This Indonesian comfort spot bridges breakfast, brunch, and lunch.

    Hana Hawaiian BBQ (Northeast Philadelphia): Hawaiian-Korean fusion comes to Bell’s Corner in a fast-casual atmosphere.

    Zack’s bacon egg & cheese at Hannah K.

    Hannah K Cafe (South Philadelphia): Point Breeze gets a bright Vietnamese breakfast and lunch cafe.

    Huda Burger (Fishtown): Yehuda Sichel of Center City’s Huda serves burgers on milk buns at his burger concept.

    The signature burger at Huda Burger.

    Jax Cafe at the J Spot (Center City): Jacqueline Clarizio offers wholesome bites at her cafe, part of her med spa near Fitler Square

    Kinto (Fishtown): This BYOB from the creators of Fabrika offers Georgian cuisine in a date-night-appropriate setting.

    La Maison Jaune (Center City): Zahra Saeed‘s French-inspired cafe offers pastries, light fare, and relaxed elegance near Fitler Square.

    Leo (Center City): The contemporary bar-restaurant at the Kimmel Center is built around seasonal ingredients.

    The Little Gay Pub (Center City): This Gayborhood pub celebrates Philadelphia’s gay community and wants to make Grandma feel right at home, too.

    Little Horse Tavern (West Philadelphia): Named in honor of pioneering golfer Charlie “Little Horse” Sifford, the tavern is next to a driving range at the newly restored Cobbs Creek public course.

    The Lodge by Two Robbers Spirits Co.

    The Lodge by Two Robbers (South Philadelphia): Inventive martinis and other cocktails come to a lodge setting from the crew behind Fishtown’s Two Robbers.

    Mecha Noodle Bar (Kensington): A Connecticut chain delivers Asian comfort foods (including ramen and bao) and cocktails under the El.

    Medium Rare (Fishtown): The single-menu steak-frites chain emphasizes simplicity and value.

    Moka & Co. (Center City): The Yemeni coffee chain sets up a shop on South Penn Square, across from City Hall.

    Musette Rittenhouse: This café-restaurant channels French sensibilities into an all-day neighborhood format at a former Ultimo Coffee location.

    Sushi chef Mitsutaka Harada holds a piece of otoro nigiri at Nakama.

    Nakama Japanese Cuisine & Omakase (Center City): Mitsutaka Harada and Haris Yohanes offer sushi, hot dishes, and omakase experiences at their modest Japanese restaurant near Reading Terminal Market.

    Newsroom Philadelphia (Northern Liberties): A bar-restaurant concept blends media themes with late-night energy, tucked behind an ersatz soda machine.

    Olive Roots Cafe (Queen Village): A Mediterranean cafe emphasizes coffee/matcha drinks and croissant sandwiches.

    Percy (Kensington): The team behind Forîn Cafe runs this unfussy but stylish diner with a bar and late-night lounge under the El.

    A feast at Pinolero.

    Pinolero (Kensington): Lilliam Orozco and daughter Sarah are behind this stylish Nicaraguan restaurant in Harrowgate highlighting wood-fire cooking and Central American beverages.

    Rhythm & Spirits (Center City): This music-theme bar and restaurant combines cocktails and Spanish-Italian food at One Penn Center (aka Suburban Station).

    Rival Bros Coffee (Washington Square West): The Philly coffee chain debuted a swank spot in the Jessup House.

    Rockwell & Rose (Center City): This stylish steakhouse has taken half of P.J. Clarke’s footprint in the Curtis Building, across from Washington Square.

    Say She Ate Cafe (Center City): There’s great name wordplay and Mumbai-influenced, vegan food on the menu at this fast-casual cafe on South Street just off Broad, carrying on the Govinda’s tradition.

    Scusi Pizza (Northern Liberties): Chef Laurent Tournodel’s colorful pizzeria/cocktail spot opened at the Piazza Alta, in advance of a luxe concept called Terra Grill.

    Seaforest Bakeshop (Graduate Hospital): Social worker Suerim Lee segued into the bakery biz, making sweet and savory Korean foods.

    Bartender Sam Shultz at Secondhand Ranch in Fishtown.

    Secondhand Ranch (Fishtown): This honky-tonk-inspired bar blends secondhand-store aesthetics with country-leaning fun.

    Shay’s Steaks & More (Rittenhouse): The Logan Square shops expands to Sansom Street, serving cheesesteaks and classic comfort food till late night.

    Static! (Center City): This high-energy bar in Washington Square West is backed by the crew from Fishtown’s Next of Kin.

    Trung Nguyen Legend (South Philadelphia): A luxe Vietnamese coffee chain premieres in Queen Village.

    Tu Rinconcito (Old City): This corner spot specializes in homestyle Mexican breakfasts and lunches.

    Turmeric Indian Kitchen (North Philadelphia): Veteran Indian restaurateurs offer a modern menu and comfortable surroundings at 13th and Spring Garden.

    The window banquette at Wine Dive.

    Wine Dive (Rittenhouse): The casual and vibe-heavy wine bar with small plates has relocated from South Street to 16th and Sansom.

    Pennsylvania Suburbs

    Anomalia Pizza (Fort Washington): Frank Innusa works the oven and Deena Fink runs the counter at their humble, stand-alone slice shop near Germantown Academy.

    Bao Nine (Malvern): This fast-casual Asian fusion specializes in bao buns and bowls; it’s an offshoot of the Rittenhouse original.

    The Borough (Downingtown): It’s a sprawling family restaurant and sports bar downstairs, with a sushi bar and event space upstairs and a serious pizza menu.

    The Buttery (Ardmore Farmer’s Market): The Malvern-rooted specialty bakery expands to the eastern Main Line.

    Cafe Neos (Conshohocken): Neos American’s companion cafe serves coffee, house-baked pastries, and other light fare.

    Carve 52 (Doylestown): This shop offers sandwiches made from hand-carved meats.

    Cote Tapia-Marmugi at Copihue Bakehouse.

    Copihue Bakehouse (Ambler): Veteran baker Cote Tapia-Marmugi offers a taste of her Chilean childhood, both sweet and savory.

    The Fulton (Conshohocken): This contemporary Irish tavern serves hearty classics at the former Old Mansion House.

    Kaede Sushi & Noodle Co. (Conshohocken): “Sushi speakeasy” is the theme of this stylish room upstairs from Guppy’s Good Times, with food from the team behind Kooma.

    The Kibitz Room (King of Prussia): The longtime Jewish deli, which started in Cherry Hill, offers a massive service counter and table service.

    One bar at La Grange in Yardley.

    La Grange Brasserie (Yardley): A French brasserie from chef Peter Woolsey brings classic technique to a woodland suburban setting in Bucks.

    The Local (Phoenixville): A breakfast-and-lunch newcomer from the Lock 29 team leans into scratch-made classics and rotating specials.

    Maison Lotus (Wayne): This refined Vietnamese coffee bar/restaurant from Win Signature Restaurants (Azie, the Blue Elephant, Teikoku, Mikado Thai Pepper, Mama-San) subsumed the former Margaret Kuo.

    Mama Chang (Colmar): A family-style Chinese dining room from chef Peter Chang features Sichuan heat.

    Nature’s Vin (Wayne): Ragini Parmar is behind this woman-operated natural-wine shop and bar in a former Main Line flower shop.

    Nudy’s Cafe (Glen Mills): Ray Nudy’s diner chain expanded into a former Bryn Mawr Trust branch for No. 15.

    Ridge Hall (Ambler): This multiconcept food hall and community anchor is helmed by Twisted Gingers Brewing Co.

    Stubborn Goat Brewing (West Grove): This no-frills brewpub pours the Chester County brewery’s beers with a menu of wings, sandwiches, and bar snacks.

    The Tommy Bahama retail flows into the adjacent Marlin Bar.

    Tommy Bahama Marlin Bar (King of Prussia): The tropical island vibes are a companion to the mall retail store.

    Tommy’s Tavern & Tap (King of Prussia): The New Jersey sports bar has set up an outpost outside the mall.

    Toastique (Newtown Square): This all-day cafe turns “gourmet toast” into the main event, backed by juices and grab-and-go bowls.

    Vanilla Café (New Hope): A sweets-forward cafe does coffee, pastries, and desserts with Instagram-friendly polish.

    New Jersey Suburbs

    Feed Mill Eatery (Medford): Five brands — Crumb Sandwich Joint, Casa Blanca Taqueria, Davey Stacks Burgers & Cheesesteaks, Mattarello Pizza, and Walterhaus German Fare — have set up at the historic Feed Mill complex, per early word from South Jersey Food Scene.

    Flying Pig Tavern & Tap (Riverside): This new outpost of the Bordentown sports bar replaces Towne Tavern.

    Julio’s Casa de la Birria (Sewell): The family behind Vineland’s Julio’s on Main has opened a sequel in Echo Plaza: a quick-service taqueria.

    Dining room at Heng Seng Noodles in Cherry Hill.

    Heng Seng Noodles (Cherry Hill): The South Philadelphia Cambodian dry-noodle specialist has set up a branch in Hung Vuong Plaza.

    Lula’s Empanadas (Haddon Heights): Yaslyn Lora has made the leap from takeout window to full storefront dining room.

    Magnify Brewing (Medford): An Essex County craft brewery has opened a laid-back taproom with a beer garden.

    Main Street Tacos (Maple Shade): This strip-mall taqueria from David and Israel Morales emphasizes bold flavors.

    Max’s Cafe’s neon sign still shines over Pudge’s Pub in Gloucester City.

    Pudge’s Pub (Gloucester City): The former Max’s Seafood Cafe has been reconceptualized as an everyday tavern featuring cheesesteaks inspired by Pudge’s Steaks of suburban Philadelphia renown.

    The Raging Bull (Pennsauken): Burgers and cheesesteaks are the specialties at this fast-casual strip-mall spot.

    Slice & Spice (Blackwood): A pizzeria and Middle Eastern grill have opened alongside a Middle Eastern grocery section, according to 42Freeway.

    Dining room at Taco-Yote in Moorestown.

    Taco-Yote (Moorestown): This modern BYO taqueria from the owner of Conshohocken’s Coyote Crossing features bold artwork.

    Thaikula Thai-Chinese Fusion and Yucu Japanese Restaurant (Magnolia): Yucu, an all-you-can-eat specialist, has the main floor of the former Laughing Fox, while Thaikula took the lower level, according to South Jersey Food Scene.

  • This was the year of the limited edition burger

    This was the year of the limited edition burger

    The gourmet burger is a familiar trope that has been reinvented for years. Burgers lure you in, they comfort you when you need something familiar, splashed with a little sparkle of indulgence, whether that’s foie gras, a rainfall of truffles, or an extra special patty made of wagyu or dry-aged beef.

    But never has there been such an avalanche of simple, carefully-made burgers served by fine dining establishments in curiously tiny quantities. In terms of construction, they’re more aligned with being a recession indicator food, even if their prices are not recession-friendly. This is no longer the era of PYT’s crazy burgers of yesteryear. And sometimes, they are served in spite of a chef’s chagrin.

    Meetinghouse’s simple, straightforward burger with its little pickle “hat,” is served only on Thursdays.

    River Twice’s double-pattied Mother Rucker burger was once bestowed upon diners in the middle of their tasting menus. They’re now available only on Monday nights.

    Pietramala’s vegan burger, made from vegetables, Mycopolitan mushrooms, and repurposed ingredients left over from their other menu items, and which takes three days of preparation, instigates lines around their block when they’re served one Sunday every month.

    The vegan bean and smoked mushroom burger at Pietramala in Northern Liberties.

    The limited edition burger thrives in our post-pandemic search for comfort and the notion that everything is a steakhouse now (a nationwide trend that hasn’t quite reached Philly, but it’s coming for us. It’s only a matter of time).

    A harbinger of the dominance of the steakhouse can be seen in a single space in nearby Washington, a city with which we share a similar progression in our dining scene: Johnny Spero’s Reverie, a tasting menu-based, fine dining approach to seafood has closed. A steakhouse, Ox and Olive, will be opening in its Georgetown space.

    The restaurants and cocktail bars beckon you with proclamations: Come in for our burger! Only 12 per night! Come in for our burger! But line up around the block!

    The limited edition burger is a trend that crops up periodically in New York, like it did in 2014, to the reluctance of chefs who noted that burgers are simply not profit drivers, and that they would bring the potential of a $45 check down to $25. Today’s limited edition burgers are unlikely to do the same in terms of numbers. Even Pine Street Grill’s almost no-frills burger costs $26.

    The phenomenon of the limited edition burger marks a uniquely 2025-era blend of a comforting, recession-indicator food (at the end of the day, it’s ground meat in a hunk of bread) with the scarcity principle frequently wielded by marketers and businesses. Limited editions trigger FOMO. Get one of these burgers and it’s like getting an Hermes Birkin bag, or the latest Supreme drop. They’re rare, you have to go through some sort of gauntlet to attain one, you feel lucky when you do.

  • What I learned eating all over Philly in 2025

    What I learned eating all over Philly in 2025

    This year was a big one for eating at restaurants. I had the largest beat in scouting for The 76 this year, my first year doing so. For that list alone, I dined at 74 restaurants. For the other features, guides, and reviews I wrote, I dined at several dozen more.

    It was fascinating to look at Philadelphia’s dining scene according to the cross sections provided by eating many of the same dishes, served in different establishments. I ordered gon chao ngau ho or beef chow fun all across the city, comparing the differences between many restaurants’ versions. Some of them were drastic, some more nuanced. This past year, I spent cumulatively two whole days at omakase counters. I tracked the culinary trends and trendy ingredients that pervaded dining rooms and kitchens: Caesar salad everything, fermentation going strong, late-night menus finally emerging from their post-pandemic slumber, and the continuing rise and diversification of little treat culture.

    It was even more fascinating to look at the Mid-Atlantic as a whole (I spent the earlier part of the year splitting my time as a resident of both Washington and Philadelphia) and seeing what trends or tendencies were shared in restaurants up and down the Northeast Corridor. Most of what I noticed took place on the plate, though our dining scene was also marked by other trends: the surge of coffeehouses, the uptick in awards, and the proliferation of oyster bars.

    Trendy techniques and ingredients do not exist in isolation. Philly’s dining scene is part of a larger ecosystem of American dining and as our restaurants attract more and more out-of-town visitors and our kitchens attract out-of-town talent (the presence of Michelin in Philly ensures both), the borders of what makes dining in Philadelphia will expand and open. Social media buffets these trends around the globe, like the shades in Dante’s Inferno.

    What I learned eating all over Philly in 2025

    All green everything

    Matcha prices rose and quality fell, as farmers in Japan struggled to keep up with the global obsession with matcha that Philadelphia was not immune to. A similar trajectory happened with pistachios, as the Dubai chocolate bar maintained a chokehold on establishments from ice cream shops to smoothie shops and everywhere in between.

    After 9 p.m. is back

    Late-night menus are very much back, despite data supporting early dining as trending.

    Big treats and little treats

    Steakhouses and bakeries dominated openings (in Philly, the latter was more the case). They also developed distinct personalities, informed by the cultural backgrounds of third culture kids. We got Baby’s Kusina, Seaforest Bakeshop, a wave of Indonesian cafes with fluffy pastries, and a host of other “little treat”-forward bakeries. New York and London reported similar little treat trends.

    Nostalgia, or signs of a shifting economy?

    Recession indicator foods like burgers and baked potatoes are dominating the discourse when it comes to restaurants’ marketing. I’ve also heard my friends hotly debate which restaurants in Philly serve the best cabbage dishes. Cabbage is the epitome of recession indicator foods.

    Cocktails, both complicated and delicious

    So much in-house fermentation and liqueur-concocting continues to fuel the creativity of Philly’s bars, especially with Almanac, La Jefa, and Honeysuckle leading the way in preserving foraged ingredients and brewing amazake, traditionally made with koji applied to rice but in Philly, bartenders are making it with everything from corn to sweet potatoes.

    Hail, Caesar

    I started my tenure at The Inquirer by covering the viral kale caesar cutlet at Liberty Kitchen. Now, just over a year later, there is nothing that cannot be a Caesar, whether it’s a martini or Scampi’s take on bruschetta. The word “salad” has now been elided from the dish.

    Superb sauces, not enough rice

    There simply isn’t enough rice on the menu to sop up the incredible sauce work happening in many of our newer restaurants. Ordering a side of white rice whenever I get a crudo at Sao or Mawn has become regular practice for me. I also longed for sides of rice when dipping into Uchi’s many, very saucy crudos.

    I can’t see my food when I’m with you

    The dining rooms are getting dark. I can’t see my food. And yet, we’re in the golden age of food photography.

    Hokkaido scallops on crispy rice with vadouvan curry at Bardea, served on shells inside a box.

    No plates, no problem

    Restaurants continue to love serving food on plates that are not plates, from the jewelry boxes that bear delicate squares of crispy rice topped with raw scallops, weighed down by rocks at Bardea, to just rocks at Honeysuckle, to cleaned out parts of animals like the tuna spinal jelly served in a cleaned-out piece of tuna spine at Nakama and the scallop sashimi in shells at Ogawa. When Elwood served its venison scrapple stabbed onto deer antlers in 2019, it broke the Philadelphian internet. Nowadays, you wouldn’t bat an eye. This phenomenon is worldwide. When I get my initial “snacks” course — they’re always called “snacks” at a fine dining establishment — it would be weird if they weren’t served on ceramic orbs like at Miro in Honolulu or ceramic test tube holders at Washington’s Jont or custom pieces made by Felt and Fat that resemble the surface of the moon at Provenance.

    Break out the vinyl

    Speakeasy cocktail bars are out. Inclusive listening lounges are in.

    Every restaurant needs a hamachi crudo

    The Aged Hamachi Crudo at Sao on Wednesday, Nov. 26, 2025 in Philadelphia.

    Pickle martinis, chicken karaage, koji-aged proteins and vegetables, and hamachi crudo are on so many menus, regardless of cuisine or concept.

    Let’s call it ‘American Fusion’

    The term “New American” is so yesteryear, but the conglomeration of many different influences and dizzying collections of seemingly disparate global flavors on single menus pervade at ambitious restaurants like Wilmington’s Bardea, where muhammara and calamansi are on the same menu, to great effect, and Grad Hospital’s Banshee where, of course, there is a hamachi crudo but also patatas bravas on one menu.

    Get off the list

    Finally, we often keep going to the same places. The 76 was a great exercise in not doing that and I encourage you to dine out widely. To eat beyond the places that have endless notify lists on Resy. To only be blinded by the dark depths of current dining rooms, and not the hype that blankets hot new restaurants.

  • Philadelphia’s latest fashion craze? A coat inspired by Kalaya’s Chutatip ‘Nok’ Suntaranon. And her dogs.

    Philadelphia’s latest fashion craze? A coat inspired by Kalaya’s Chutatip ‘Nok’ Suntaranon. And her dogs.

    Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon — the culinary genius behind the James Beard Award-winning restaurant Kalaya — is known for her delicious Thai cuisine and trotting her adorable Pomeranians, Titi and Ginji, around her Queen Village neighborhood.

    That’s how Suntaranon caught the eye of sustainable fashion designer and Lobo Mau boutique founder Nicole Haddad.

    “To me, she was the lady with the restaurant and the Pomeranians,” Haddad said. “I would see her walking around Fourth Street and she’d have her Pomeranians with her. I have an obsession with Pomeranians. They are the most adorable creatures on the planet.”

    Nicole Haddad stands in front of her boutique, Lobo Mau, in Philadelphia before it closed in 2024.

    So when a mutual acquaintance of Haddad and Suntaranon’s suggested the two entrepreneurs work together on a Philly fashion collaboration, Haddad jumped at the opportunity. She had the perfect project, a reimagining of Lobo Mau’s top-selling women’s swing coat, the Pom Jacket, named after Haddad’s favorite breed of dog.

    This new version would be called the Nok Pom.

    “It felt like kismet from the beginning,” Haddad said.

    The original

    About 15 years ago, Haddad was in Venice visiting the Peggy Guggenheim Museum when she chanced upon a black-and-white photo of the New York heiress and art collector surrounded by her beloved Lhasa apsos.

    “She was wearing a voluminous swing coat surrounded by five little dogs that reminded me of Pomeranians and I immediately thought, ‘I want to design something like this.’”

    Back in Philly, Haddad made a black-and-white swing coat just like the ones popularized in the 1930s by jazz musicians. These coats were designed by the likes of Elsa Schiaparelli and Balenciaga and sold in the world’s top specialty stores, including Philadelphia’s Nan Duskin.

    Haddad’s swing coat, the Pom Jacket, was tapered at the shoulders and flared at the waist, featuring a wide shawl collar and three-quarter-length cuffed sleeves. Priced at $398, it became a bestseller within weeks; finding a cult following, including NPR host Terry Gross, in the city.

    Model Khalil Abner wears Nicole Haddad’s original Lobo Mau Pom Jacket.

    In 2022, the Pom caught the eye of a buyer at New York’s Guggenheim Museum where it sold in the museum’s gift shop through 2024.

    “It was a full circle moment,” Haddad said.

    Meanwhile Suntaranon and Natalie Jesionka, the coauthor of Suntaranon’s 2024 book, Kalaya’s Southern Thai Kitchen: A Cookbook, had their eyes set on the Pom Jacket.

    The remix

    On a winter afternoon in 2019, Suntaranon stopped on a dime in front Lobo Mau’s then-Bainbridge Street boutique. She had to have the original black-and-white Pom Jacket in the window.

    “Within two seconds, we sold her the jacket and she left,” Haddad said.

    Suntaranon loved her jacket and has since been a supporter of Lobo Mau. It was Jesionka, a longtime Lobo Mau client who owned several iterations of the Pom, who suggested Suntaranon and Haddad collaborate.

    Haddad knew Suntaranon gravitated toward bold-hued pieces that appeared architectural but flowed like liquid over women’s curves. She also knew that Suntaranon collected origami-inspired pieces by Japanese womenswear designer Issey Miyake.

    “I’ve been collecting [Miyake] since I was 22,” Suntaranon, 57, said, mentioning the pleated teal, limited-edition Issey Miyake gown she wore to the 2025 James Beard Awards dinner in Chicago. “It’s timeless and beautiful.”

    Suntaranon arrived at Haddad’s Bok Building studio in September 2025 — she closed her Bainbridge Street store in 2024 after landlords tripled the rent — with a clear idea of her dream Nok Pom.

    She wanted a fuller silhouette that was longer in the back and had a button closure.

    “I wanted a more dramatic look,” Suntaranon said.

    Haddad created a print featuring a trompe-l’oeil 3D-effect that gave the illusion of Issey Miyake-style pleats. She had it digitally printed on cobalt blue sweatshirt material.

    Kalaya’s chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon poses in Lobo Mau’s exclusive Pom jacket. The acclaimed chef collaborated with local designer Nicole Haddad for an updated version of Hadddad’s original Pom Jacket. Styled by Nicole Haddad and Miranda Martel; jewelry by Feast and Forge and Finish; shoes by Elena Brennan; Hair and makeup by Tarah Yoder.

    She added a box pleat in the jacket’s center back to create volume and drama, piping along the outer edge of the collar, and pockets on the inside and outside of the jacket. As a final touch, she put a big black button under the bustline.

    The Nok Pom was ready.

    “It’s beautiful,” Suntaranon said of her eponymous fashion piece. “It’s exactly how I envisioned it.”

    The Nok Pom, priced at $450, is a limited-edition item and is available to order through Jan. 10.

    In February , Haddad got a Pomeranian of her own that she named Johnny. She designed matching hoodies for Johnny, Titi, and Ginji, that are also for sale.

    Suntaranon is flattered that she — and her pooches — are a part of the city’s food and fashion scene.

    “Fashion — just like food — is a big part of my life,” Suntaranon said. “Fashion and food are an art. When the fashion industry is thriving and the food industry is thriving, the city is thriving.”

    The Nok Pom is available online through Jan. 10 on lobomau.com

  • Gluten-free bakery Flakely levels up with a new and bigger storefront in Bryn Mawr

    Gluten-free bakery Flakely levels up with a new and bigger storefront in Bryn Mawr

    A popular gluten-free bakery is coming to the Main Line.

    Flakely is moving from behind the bright pink door at 220 Krams Ave. in Manayunk to a Bryn Mawr storefront in early February, said owner Lila Colello. The new takeout-only bakery will replace a hookah lounge at 1007 W. Lancaster Ave.

    “We’ve really outgrown our space,” Colello told The Inquirer. Manayunk “wasn’t ever meant to be for retail.”

    A trained pastry chef who worked for the Ritz Carlton and Wolfgang Puck Catering, Colello was afraid she’d have to give up the best things in life — bread and her career — when she was diagnosed in 2010 with celiac disease, an inflammatory autoimmune and intestinal disorder triggered by eating gluten.

    Instead, Colello spent the next seven years finding ways to get around gluten, a protein found in grains like wheat, rye, and barley (and thus most breads, bagels, and pastries). She perfected kettle-boiled bagels and pastry lamination before starting Flakely in 2017 as a wholesaler.

    Colello moved into the commercial kitchen at Krams Avenue in 2021, where customers have spent the last four years picking up buttery chocolate croissants, brown sugar morning buns, and crusty-yet-chewy bagels from a takeout window in an industrial parking lot. Inquirer restaurant critic Craig LaBan has called Colello’s bagels “the best he’s tasted outside of New York,” and in 2024, Flakely was voted one of the best gluten-free bakeries in the United States by USA Today.

    Lila Colello, owner and head baker at Flakely, helped patent a way to laminate gluten free dough for croissants.

    Flakely’s industrial Manayunk location has required some concessions, Colello said: The majority of their goodies are par-baked and frozen by Colello and three full-time employees for customers to take and bake at home. Otherwise, Colello explained, the lack of steady foot traffic would lead to lots of wasted product.

    In Bryn Mawr, Flakely will be a fully functional takeout bakery with a pastry case full of fresh-baked goods, from full-sized baguettes and browned butter chocolate chip cookies to danishes and Colello’s signature sweet-and-savory croissants. A freezer will also include packs of Flakely’s take-and-bake doughs, bagels, and eventually, custom cake orders.

    Once she’s settled in, Colello said, she hopes to run gluten-free baking classes and pop-up dinners out of the storefront — offerings (besides the ingredients) that she hopes will differentiate her from other bakeries in the area.

    While the Main Line only has one dedicated gluten-free bakery (The Happy Mixer in Wayne), Lancaster Avenue is already lined with sweet shops: Malvern Buttery opened up a coffee and pastry combo down the street from Flakely in June, and Colello’s storefront is on the same strip as The Bakery House and an outpost of popular Korean-French chain Tous Les Jours.

    “My vision is for this to be a magical space where people can come in and leave with a fresh croissant, which people can’t really do” when they’re gluten-free, said Colello, who lives in Havertown. “We offer our customers things they miss. That’s kind of our thing.”

    Flakely owner Lila Colello poses in front of one of Flakely’s pink gluten free pastry ATMs, which vend take-and-bake goods at four locations in the Philly area.

    What about the pastry ATMs?

    The permanent storefront does not mean Flakely’s signature pink pastry ATMs will disappear, said Colello. But they will move.

    Colello installed Flakely’s first pastry vending machine inside South Philly’s now-shuttered Salt & Vinegar. With the tap or swipe of a credit card, the smart freezer would open to let customers choose their own take-and-bake pack of croissants, pop-tarts, muffins, or danishes. Using it felt like a sweet glimpse into the future.

    Flakely currently operates pastry ATMs inside Collingswood grocer Haddon Culinary, the Weaver’s Way Co-op in Ambler, Ardmore smoke shop Free Will Collective, and Irv’s Ice Cream in South Philly, where enterprising customers top their pastries with scoops fresh out the freezer.

    Irv’s ATM will make the move to Reap Wellness in Fishtown on Jan. 5 when the ice cream shop closes for the season, Colello said. And come February, the smoke shop’s ATM will transition to Lucky’s Trading Co., a food hall at 5154 Ridge Ave. in Roxborough. The hope, Colello said, is to space the locations out enough so she’s not competing with herself.

    “We’re finally in the middle of where everything is,” Colello said. “And that’s kind of the goal.”

    Flakely, 1007 W. Lancaster Ave., Bryn Mawr, 484-450-6576. Hours: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday.