Borromini’s 100-layer lasagna looks like a miracle of noodle engineering. It’s the kind of “more is more” pasta spectacle that commands its own showcase box on the menu, puts curious diners in chairs, and requires a team of three dedicated attendants in Borromini’s vast kitchen to meticulously construct its layers — a tall stack of pasta sheets alternating with microscopic schmears of ricotta, creamy béchamel, and tomato sauce — that get baked, sliced, then crisped on one side, to be served atop a puddle of pomodoro.
Its intricate ridges are beautiful to behold. But to eat, this lasagna is more like a doorstop than a showstopper. The layers are so tightly compressed, it’s closer to a muddled mush than a deck of delicate harmonies, a squidgy blur of cheese and dough whose individual virtues could have been more compellingly conveyed in 10 layers rather than 100. Add a slow-cooked, jammy tomato sauce that leans sweet rather than bright and lively, and the final effect is one-dimensional. It has subtly evolved over the course of my multiple visits, but each time it prompted a disappointed shrug.
The 100-layer lasagna at Borromini has been constantly evolving. This version, eaten in November, three months after opening, has been called “the final version” by owner Stephen Starr.Borromini, 1805 Walnut St., on Aug. 16, 2025.
That’s not the thrill I expected from the marquee dish at this glitzy $20 million, 320-seat trattoria, whose dramatically lit column facade glows red over the northern edge of Rittenhouse Square. Stephen Starr’s first major hometown restaurant in years (and his 41st overall) is arguably the biggest opening in Philly in 2025. He went all out transforming the former Barnes & Noble into what many have aspiringly dubbed “the Italian Parc,” a two-story Roman-themed palace with vaulted ceilings, an intricate stone chip floor, and walls lined with 3,000 bottles. Starr brought on legendary New York restaurateur Keith McNally to design the space (Starr has syndicated McNally’s Pastis bistro to multiple cities since they partnered to revive it in 2018).
He also enlisted a hive of respectedculinary minds to create the menu over the course of 90-plus tastings, with his corporate food team and Borromini’s executive chef, Julian Alexander Baker, collaborating with Mark Ladner, the former chef of New York’s now-closed Del Posto, where Starr first tasted a magical rendition of that lasagna many years ago.
Stephen Starr (left) and chef Mark Ladner discuss Borromini’s version of Ladner’s signature 100-layer lasagna during a menu tasting at Borromini on July 15, 2025.
Ladner initially declined to recreate that decades-old hit when first asked. Starr should have listened. But Ladner — now the chef at Babbo, which Starr reopened in New York in October (and where a meaty version of that lasagna is also a menu feature) — ultimately gave in.
There are plenty of other, more admirable dishes on the menu here, including the focaccia di Recco from another consulting chef, Nancy Silverton, the LA star with whom Starr runs Osteria Mozza in D.C. The hot crisp of her flatbread’s wafer-thin rounds sandwiching tangy stracchino cheese is the one dish I order every time. I loved the contrast of silky braised oxtail that gathered in the frilly-edged ribbons of the house-extruded mafaldine. And the calamarata pasta loops, paired “Sicilian lifeguard”-style with look-alike rings of tender squid, chili spice, and golden raisins, is exactly the kind of delicious, obscure regional dish that shows how infinitely surprising the world of pastas can be.
The focaccia di Recco at Borromini is layered with tangy stracchino cheese.The “Sicilian lifeguard” calaramata with calamari and golden raisins at Borromini in Philadelphia, on Thursday, Nov. 13, 2025.
But Borromini is more about polishing the familiar than unearthing regional quirks. And that big lasagna has become an apt metaphor for why Borromini’s food too often seems off. No matter how grand the ambitions of a dish (or this restaurant in general) may be, stellar Italian food comes down to finesse, touch, and soul — elements that a kitchen-by-committee cannot engineer. In a town with exceptional Italian restaurants in varied styles, not to mention a population with a deep reservoir of red-gravy family nostalgia, the room for error is slim for a dining experience that averages just under $80 per person (before tax and tip).
The crisply fried squash blossoms stuffed with lemony ricotta and the hamachi crudo dressed simply with Meyer lemon and olive oil were tasty, if not necessarily distinctive. The arugula with shaved raw artichokes would be my salad pick. The massive, fork-tender osso buco, a 1-pound shank drizzled with brown jus over saffron risotto with a marrow spoon poking skyward from its bone, is as close to textbook Milanese perfection as Borromini gets.
The osso bucco at Borromini in Philadelphia, on Thursday, Nov. 13, 2025.
Borromini’s kitchen, however, struggled with consistency on several other traditional dishes. My favorite of the restaurant’s minimalist Roman-style pastas is the bucatini all’Amatriciana that’s brought to the table in the pan. But will you receive the version I tasted most recently, its simple tomato sauce vividly infused with the juniper- and pepper-sparked savor of properly rendered guanciale? Or will it taste bitter from the scorched nubs of cured pork I encountered at a previous meal?
The pasta all’Amatriciana at Borromini in Philadelphia, on Thursday, Nov. 13, 2025.People dining in at Borromini in Philadelphia, on Thursday, Nov. 13, 2025.
I might agree with my Italian server, Thomas, that Borromini’s carbonara is one of the best I’ve tasted in Philly, its mezze rigatoni tubes glazed in a golden shine of well-tempered eggs and guanciale fat. Too bad it was already cold when I took a bite the moment it arrived at my table.
A number of the pastas were notable, including a spaghetti bright with lemon, butter, and pasta water, a deft display of minimalist satisfaction. I was also a fan of the Sardinian gnochetti with blue crab, uni, and tomatoes that brought a burst of seafood savor some other pastas lacked — like the linguine with clams that was virtually brothless, or the lobster spaghetti that was bountiful with crustacean but whose sauce lacked depth. The short rib agnolotti might have been excellent had their dumpling dough not been so thick.
The cacio e pepe has been consistently disappointing. Its peppercorn-speckled noodles were pasty and dry, with no halo of creamy sauce to spare. The clam pizzetta was a floppy round of spongy dough piled high with chopped Italian clams that radiated raw garlic. The $125 bistecca alla Fiorentina, a 2-pound prime porterhouse centerpiece for sharing, was so achingly oversalted, it wasted an otherwise stellar slab of beef that had been lovingly massaged with confit garlic butter.
The kitchen’s other stations turned in mixed results, as well. I much preferred the crispy-skinned dorade with salsa verde to the branzino with white beans, which was also horrendously oversalted. The eggplant parm was stiff with too much breading, though the splurge-worthy bone-in veal parm for $72 was good (unfortunately, they’ve since resorted to a boneless version). The lamb chops with salsa verde were more memorable, as was the rabbit cacciatore served in its metal crock with peppers and Castelvetrano olives, a rustic gem inspired by feedback from yet another consulting voice, the legendary Lidia Bastianich.
The mafaldine with braised oxtail ragu at Borromini.Folks dining in at the bar at Borromini in Philadelphia, on Thursday, Nov. 13, 2025.
It would be wrong to call Borromini a total bomb. Any place with a steady deluge of crowds putting it on target to generate $20 million in annual revenue has to be doing something right, and that would be its La Dolce Vita vibes. These sprawling rooms are a boisterous and glamorous crossroads for a broad swath of Philadelphians out for a night in their finest — fueled by flutes of “mini-tinis” (which my guest gleefully declared “filthy” with salty burrata brine), sweet-side Negronis, and Cynar-spiked espresso martinis.
Starr’s greatest talent may be his gift for building energetic public spaces that feel as if they’ve always been there. And while Borromini lacks the corner space and open cafe windows that allow Parc in its al fresco moments to become part of the fabric of Rittenhouse Square, McNally has crafted a Fellini-esque stage set of leather booths, honeyed light, and linen-draped wooden tables that feels magnetic — especially the undulating copper bar on the ground floor, where an intriguing collection of 100-plus amari and digestivi awaits.
All my servers — five different people over the course of my visits — were personable, outgoing, and well-prepared to make smart pairing suggestions.
I should have stuck with their suggestions to indulge those digestivi with desserts. The airy tiramisu here backfired, its lightweight cloud of whipped mascarpone lacking the richness to counter an overzealous cocoa shower and the wickedly acidic twang of ladyfingers soaked in espresso.
My favorite finish was sour in the best way possible: a hollowed-out lemon stuffed with sweet-tart lemon sorbetto. You’ve maybe seen something just like this in your neighborhood Italian place, brought in from the Italian frozen dessert powerhouse Bindi. But this was Borromini at its best, transforming something familiar into a better, fresher, more elegant version of itself. It will make you smile even as it puts a pucker on your face.
The lemon sorbetto served inside a hollowed-out lemon at Borromini in Philadelphia, on Thursday, Nov. 13, 2025.
Lunch served Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner served Sunday through Wednesday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, until 11 p.m. Brunch Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner pastas and entrees, $19-$72.
Wheelchair accessible.
There are several gluten-free options, including high-quality gluten-free pasta, which can be substituted with most sauces.
Drinks: The bar program offers 19 Italian wines by the glass, ranging from $12 house wines to $27 Franciacorta, a deep bottle list with more prestige options, Italian cocktails heavy on the expected spritzes and Negroni variations, and a list of nearly 100 amari and digestivi.
Menu Highlights: focaccia di Recco, squash blossoms; hamachi crudo; artichoke-arugula salad; pastas (spaghetti al limon, gnochetti sardi with crab, oxtail mafaldine, spaghetti all’Amatriciana, carbonara, “Sicilian lifeguard” calamarata); polpetta; rabbit cacciatore; dorade; osso buco; sorbetto al limon.
Borromini, the new Italian restaurant on Rittenhouse Square, in Philadelphia, July 29, 2025.Some of the first-floor dining area at Borromini in Philadelphia, Pa., on Tuesday, August 12, 2025.
Only one restaurant – Friday Saturday Sunday – received both a star from the Michelin Guide and a yes from a majority (62%) of our readers.
Readers
Michelin Guide
Two other restaurants were given a Michelin star but received majority no votes from our readers – Her Place and Provenance, with only 35% and 38% of readers voting yes.
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Readers
Michelin Guide
Royal Sushi & Izakaya clinched a 64% yes from our readers. While it was snubbed for a Star, it still secured a Bib Gourmand – a category for establishments with excellent, albeit not star-worthy, food for the price.
More than half of our readers also voted yes for Kalaya and Zahav. Although they didn’t receive a star, they both earned a spot on the guide’s list of recommendations.
Readers
Michelin Guide
None of these restaurants received a Michelin star, which our readers agreed with.
Here’s one thing to be grateful for this holiday season: A typical Thanksgiving dinner is more affordable this year than last, according to the American Farm Bureau Federation.
The average cost of a Thanksgiving feast for 10 people — including turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes, rolls, peas, cranberries, a veggie tray, and pumpkin pie with whipped cream — will cost $55.18, or $5.52 per person, the group found.
That number varies by region. The Thanksgiving grocery haul was cheapest in the South, at $50.01, and most expensive in the West, at $61.75.
This is the third year in a row the price has declined after reaching a historic high of $64.05 in 2022.
The farm group, which has tracked Thanksgiving meal prices for 40 years, compiled data from grocery stores in all 50 states and Puerto Rico. It did not take into account promotional coupons or deals found online or in-store.
The star of Thanksgiving — the turkey, of course — helped bring down the overall cost of dinner this year. The average price of a 16-pound frozen bird decreased by 16 percent from last year to $21.50, or $1.34 per pound. The report said that its volunteers tracked prices during the first week of November but noted that grocery stores have been featuring Thanksgiving deals to draw in customers and are likely to lower prices further ahead of the holiday.
“Farmers are still working to rebuild turkey flocks that were devastated by avian influenza, but overall demand has also fallen,” Faith Parum, an economist at the American Farm Bureau Federation, said in a statement. “The combination will help ensure turkey will remain an affordable option for families celebrating Thanksgiving.”
Low wheat prices helped bring down the cost of items requiring flour, such as dinner rolls, stuffing mix and frozen pie crusts. But the cost of vegetables shot up, the farm group found. A a one-pound veggie tray of carrots and celery increased more than 60 percent, while sweet potatoes increased by 37 percent. The AFB attributed those increases to hurricane damage in North Carolina, the country’s largest producer of sweet potatoes, and possible supply-chain disruptions, such as from weather or labor shortages.
The Thanksgiving holiday comes right after more than 41 million people were left without food stamps this month because of the government shutdown. Many Americans are reporting higher grocery prices, while also feeling the financial pinch from increases in electricity bills and housing costs.
Representatives behind Philly’s three Michelin starred restaurants are lauded for their culinary skills, hospitality, and showmanship. But the men involved with each of them also have this shared trait: They’re all certified Wife Guys.
For those uninitiated, a wife guy is a colloquial way to refer to someone who is all about their marriage and finds ways to talk about their devotion whenever possible. (There are some instances where this phrase is used snarkily, but in this case, we mean it genuinely as a compliment and in earnest.)
When chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp stepped on stage to receive Her Place Supper Club’s one-star honor, Kemp stepped to the side, opting not to be photographed alongside the Michelin Man.
“Amanda is the hardest working woman in show business,” Kemp told The Inquirer on Wednesday. “She deserves this. I felt super proud of her, but I didn’t want to take her thunder.”
While Kemp is part-owner of Her Place, Shulman founded the restaurant and is the face (and chef) of the project.
Emcee for the night, Java Ingram, remarked on stage how Kemp’s gesture to step aside was “classy.”
He wasn’t the only one paying tribute to his wife that night.
Power couple Chad and Hanna Williams, who are behind star-winning restaurant Friday Saturday Sunday, also displayed their love for each other. Chad Williams could be seen on stage holding his wife and kissing her cheek after they received their award and Michelin jackets.
“Love and partnership is the foundation of this restaurant,” Williams later told The Inquirer of his display. “We got married in the kitchen for God’s sake. To have earned a Michelin star is my greatest accomplishment but to have done it with my wife is a dream come true.”
Finally, there was Provenance, the surprise of the night, pulling off a star within the atelier’s first year of opening.
Michelin international director Gwendal Poullennec asked Nicholas Bazik on stage what his inspiration was. While holding the mic, he pointed to his wife, Eunbin Whang. “She’s right over there,” Bazik said as the crowd erupted in “aws.” Whang demurely approached Bazik on stage, covering her face, tearful and proud as Bazik draped his arm around her.
“There would be no Provenance without my wife,” Bazik told The Inquirer, citing her influence on his “culinary identity,” blending French and Korean culture and cuisine.
So is love a prerequisite to getting a star?
Bazik seems to think so.
“Everybody needs a constant, something that can help center them. This is a hard job that oscillates between insanity and reality checks. Love is that thread.”
Kemp concurs.
“Or maybe it’s being a ‘family guy,’” he quipped when asked by The Inquirer for his take. “Amanda is a very easy person to love. She’s my best friend. We do everything together. We spend every moment of the day talking or working together.”
He added, “I love being a wife guy. It’s cool being a wife guy.”
The ceremony also honored restaurants from New York City, Chicago, Washington, D.C., and Boston, which also made its Michelin debut as the gastronomic guide has expanded rapidly around the United States in recent years. Anonymous Michelin inspectors were dispatched to Philly months ago to scout, dining in secret and often visiting the same places repeatedly to ensure consistency.
And while Michelin tends to be synonymous with stars (and, yeah, tires), there are other ways to earn recognition. Thirty-one other Philly restaurants — including three cheesesteak shops — earned Michelin honors below the star level. These included 10 Bib Gourmands and 21 recommendations.
What’s the difference between a Michelin star, a Bib, and a recommendation? And who won top honors? We explain.
What is a Michelin star?
A Michelin star is the most prestigious honor a restaurant can earn from the Michelin Guide and typically recognizes fine dining restaurants.
Restaurants do not apply to be inspected, nor can they be nominated. Anonymous inspectors visit restaurants repeatedly throughout the year — often on different days and at different times — and rate them on the following criteria, according to the guide’s website:
Quality of ingredients
Harmony of flavors
Mastery of culinary techniques
Consistency across menu and time
How a chef’s personality is reflected in the food
Thomas Keller high-fives the the Michelin Man during the announcements Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.
Restaurants can earn up to three Michelin stars. One star is a restaurant that is “worth a stop,” according to the guide, for top-quality ingredients. Two stars is a “worth a detour,” while a three-star restaurant is “worth a journey” for cooking that feels like art. Three-star ratings are rare. Only New York City’s Sushi Sho hit the star maximum on Tuesday.
Stars are awarded annually, and restaurants can gain or lose Michelin stars over time, kind of like experience points in a video game. They can also be a big boost for business: Chefs told Eater that one Michelin Star is worth a 20% jump in sales, while other chefs have reported three stars can increase them up to 100%.
Which Philly restaurants earned Michelin stars?
Provenance, Her Place Supper Club, and Friday Saturday Sunday all earned one Michelin star at Tuesday night’s ceremony.
Chefs Chad and Hanna Williams took over Friday Saturday Sunday in 2016, transforming the old Rittenhouse Square restaurant into a James-Beard Award winning tasting experience that mixes Caribbean, Asian, and soul food references. “The long, narrow, lively, and warmly run restaurant is up a steep flight of stairs — and those stairs will seem even steeper when it’s time to leave,” Michelin said of the restaurant, which plans to expand. “Expect an atmosphere as spirited and enjoyable as the food.”
Friday Saturday Sunday, run by chef Chad Williams and his wife, Hanna, earns a star at the Kimmel Center on Tuesday.
Chef Nich Bazik’s Provenance is the youngest Philly restaurant to receive top honors, open for a year in August. Bazik oversees an elaborate, seasonal 20- to 25-dish tasting menu that combines French and Korean flavors often inspired by his wife, Bazik said at Tuesday’s ceremony. Provenance is a “high-wire, high-stakes performance defined by precision,” Michelin wrote.
Provenance sous chefs Zac Cohen (left) and Nicholas Piwinski present a collection of canapés to guest at the Headhouse Square restaurant on Oct. 17, 2024.
What is a Bib Gourmand?
The Bib Gourmand celebrates restaurants “that serve exceptional food at great value,” according to the Michelin Guide’s website. It was first announced in 1997 as a more budget-friendly companion to the stars.
Previous honorees range from Katz’s — the iconic no-frills Jewish deli on Manhattan’s Lower East Side — and a counter-service-only sandwich stand in Atlanta, to small taquerias, dim sum restaurants, and the occasional hole-in-the-wall.
Like Michelin-starred restaurants, Bib Gourmand awardees can use the designation in their marketing. In some cases, the honor has saved restaurants from closing.
A trio of cheesesteaks from Angelo’s Pizzeria, which earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand on Tuesday.
Which Philly restaurants earned a Bib Gourmand?
Ten Philly restaurants took home a Bib Gourmand on Tuesday night. Naturally, three of them were cheesesteak shops. Here’s the full list:
Angelo’s Pizzeria
Dalessandro’s Steaks
Del Rossi’s
Dizengoff
El Chingón
Famous 4th Street Deli
Fiorella
Pizzeria Beddia
Sally
Royal Sushi & Izakaya
Cemita clasica, remolacha, and al pastor tacos at El Chingón, which earned a coveted Michelin Bib Gourmand on Tuesday.
What is a Michelin-recommended restaurant?
Michelin-recommended restaurants are simply “establishments serving good food,” according to the guide’s website. They are judged on the same five signature criteria as starred restaurants.
“A restaurant in the Recommended selection is the sign of a chef using quality ingredients that are well cooked; simply a good meal,” said Michael Ellis, the former international director of Michelin Guide books, in the post. “It means that the inspectors have found the food to be above average, but not quite at star or Bib level.”
In other words, shoot for the stars and hopefully fall among the recs.
The Philadelphia chefs acknowledged at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.
Like restaurants with a Bib Gourmand, those that earned recommendations can also use the notation as a marketing tool. Admittedly, the designation used to be a bigger deal before 2020, when Michelin digitized the guide. Before, recommendations were listed in bound red travel guides that the tire company first used as a sneaky promotion to nudge people to take more road trips (and thus, buy more tires).
Recommended restaurants are not precluded from earning stars later on. In fact, insiders think of it as a watchlist for establishments that might get a star in the future.
The hot tamales from Honeysuckle at 631 N. Broad St., which is now a Michelin Guide recommended restaurant.
Which restaurants did Michelin recommend in Philly?
Michelin recommended 21 restaurants in Philly. They are:
Ambra
Forsythia
High Street
Hiroki
Honeysuckle
Illata
Kalaya
Laser Wolf
Laurel
Little Water
Mish Mish
My Loup
Pietramala
River Twice
Roxanne
Southwark
Suraya
Vedge
Vernick Food & Drink
Vetri Cucina
Zahav
Honeynut squash with husk cherry, habanero, and pumpkin seed tahini at Pietramala. The vegan Philadelphia restaurant earned a Michelin Green Star for sustainability, as a well as a recommendation.
Were there any other awards to take home?
Yes. Aside from earning a recommendation, chef Ian Graye’s vegan Northern Liberties BYOB Pietramala also earned a Green Star for demonstrating a commitment to sustainability.
There is no specific formula for awarding a Green Star, according to the Michelin Guide website, though criteria such as environmental footprint, the use of seasonal produce, resource management, and how food waste is treated are considered.
Ian Graye, of Pietramala earned a Green Star award at the Michelin Guide announcement event at the Kimmel Center.
“Chef Ian Graye seeks out foragers and small local suppliers for plants, herbs and fruits and also does his own fermenting and preserving,“ read the blurb included in the Michelin Guide for Pietramala. “His menu offers a selection of around 10 dishes designed for sharing — around three per person should more than suffice when ordering — and his cooking comes with a slight Italian accent.”
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Last night, Michelin entered the Philadelphia dining scene for the first time. Three restaurants got a one-star rating: Friday Saturday Sunday, Provenance, and Her Place Supper Club. Another 31 got recognition from Michelin, as either a “selected” restaurant or a Bib Gourmand.
So did the vaunted international arbiter of dining get it right in Philadelphia? Well, we have some notes. Restaurant critic Craig LaBan sat down with food reporters Michael Klein and Kiki Aranita, who both attended Tuesday night’s awards, to chat about what Michelin got right and what they missed.
The Philadelphia chefs acknowledged at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.
A night of stars and surprises
Craig LaBan, restaurant critic: I was not surprised by the stingy amount of stars given, or even those who received them, but there were notable snubs, including in the value-oriented Bib Gourmands, where some of their choices were big, blatant misses. Vetri Cucina missing out on a deserved star might have been my biggest “oh boy” moment.
Mike Klein, food reporter: I liked how Michelin seemed to ignore a lot of what we would consider “obvious” picks and seemed to look deeper than other outside groups. (I’m referring to the national magazines, which basically only amplify the local critics’ work.)
Kiki Aranita, food reporter: I’m surprised that so many cheesesteak joints got recognition but almost no Asian places, save for Hiroki, Kalaya, and Royal Sushi & Izakaya. I feel like we’re more of a Vietnamese food town than a cheesesteak town, but you’d never guess it from looking at the Michelin Guide. I’m also surprised to see Hiroki recognized but not Ogawa. Based on my deep survey of omakases for The 76.
Chef Marc Vetri (left) and Chad Williams, of Friday Saturday Sunday, during the cocktail hour, at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.
CL: And the lack of attention to Mexican food! I’m thrilled for Carlos Aparicio at El Chingón, one of my longtime favorites — but that is one of the most exciting genres in Philly right now.
MK: Maybe Michelin felt it needed to jump into the cheesesteak debate.
CL: So cliché. And also, Dalessandro’s? C’mon! Angelo’s and Del Rossi’s belong, but I had a memorably bad cheesesteak at Dalessandro’s this spring that looked like the beef had been fed to a wood chipper before it was slapped it on my bun.
Also, if we’re really talking about delving into Philly’s street-food sandwich cred — why not a special hoagie or roast pork place? John’s Roast Pork comes to mind. This felt like an obligatory street-food addition from inspectors with little background in Philly food.
MK: My biggest surprise was that Jesse Ito’s omakase counter didn’t get a star (the izakaya got a Bib), and I suspect that was because the inspectors could not get in. Though “everyone” seems to put it on their best-of lists, Michelin apparently didn’t pull strings.
Chef Jesse Ito and Mia Colona at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.
CL: I also agree with Kiki on the subject of Asian restaurants, which are among our most exciting dining destinations: Vietnamese, Cambodian, Indonesian, and Chinese, of course. Mawn was a noticeable omission, but I suspect they simply didn’t put in the work to get a table, or wait for one at lunch. Sort of lazy, to be honest.
Let’s talk about the snubs
CL: On the subject of Royal Sushi & Izakaya, it’s clear to me from talking to Jesse, who’s seen a copy of the blurb they’re publishing, that they did not get into the omakase. Again, that seems like they just didn’t do the work required of a respected authority on fine dining. But, well, it’s just the first year. Also, a Bib is exactly the correct rating for the izakaya — and a great kudos for that side of the restaurant.
MK: Snubs: Jean Georges. He wins everywhere. Why not here?
CL: Why not JG? Because it’s not a good restaurant. I had one of my worst scouting meals of the summer there this year. The menu seems both dated and aimless and not well-executed. I had a fish dish with a strawberry-tahini sauce the color of Pepto-Bismol that I still shudder to remember.
MK: Snubs: Nothing for Stephen Starr, who only has one one-star in his entire portfolio (Le Coucou). Wasn’t Barclay Prime even worth a Recommended?
CL: I do think Barclay is the best steakhouse in Philly, and possibly Starr’s best, most consistent restaurant. But how often does Michelin recognize steakhouses? Barclay is less formulaic than most, but it’s less cheffy than your typical Michelin nod.
Joe Beddia (from left), Greg Root, Nick Kennedy (rear), Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, and Roland Kassis with the Michelin Man at the Michelin Guide announcement Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.
KA: Craig, are you at all surprised Kalaya didn’t get a Star?
CL: Yes, I was a little surprised Kalaya didn’t get a star. It’s not really a tasting-menu place. But the flavors are so explosive, the personality in [chef] Nok [Suntaranon]’s cuisine is so vivid and distinct, it seems like a slam dunk, really. But it’s also a very big restaurant. Anything could have detracted from the experience — the service, the noise, whatever. I do think her cooking measures up to the criterion they’ve stated.
What were you happy to see?
KA: I did think they took an expansive view of independent, chef-driven restaurants.
CL: I was surprised and thrilled with all the attention directed to Pietramala, our best vegan restaurant right now — and one of the best in all genres, period. The extra award for his pursuit of sustainability was spot on, because it is next-level.
Ian Graye, of Pietramala earned a Green Star award at the Michelin Guide announcement event at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025, in Philadelphia.
KA: I was absolutely thrilled by that. I also did point out to [chef] Ian [Graye] that his green star was made of plastic.
MK: My hot take is that many of the Recommended restaurants are being poised for stars in the future, assuming they step it up. But hey: Vernick, Vetri, and Zahav? That I don’t get.
KA: Mike, I agree — and that is how Recommended restaurants work. They show us what inspectors have on their radar.
I think Michelin more than any other list or awards entity analyzes what is on the plate, and is it delicious? (Sure, we can argue about what is delicious — but it’s delicious to them at a particular time.) [The World’s] 50 Best does seem to celebrate restaurants with excellent PR, while James Beard [Awards] looks at many different aspects of a restaurant, to the detriment of delicious (at times).
Hanna Williams looks on as husband Chad Williams and Lynette Brown-Sow FaceTime after the Michelin Guide awards Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.
What would you like to see Michelin consider next year?
KA: I would hope that they think about entering Chinatown.
MK: To Kiki’s point: Nothing from Chinatown?
KA: Let’s really drive that home. Nothing from Chinatown but three cheesesteak places?
CL: For the next guide, I’d love them to better explore Philly’s traditional sandwich culture beyond cheesesteaks, our great Chinatown, our fish house legacy (Oyster House could have been a bib).
MK: P.S. Everyone I saw at the awards ceremony came away with something. Maybe not the star they craved, but hey — Michelin is no small potatoes.
Amanda Shulman (right) and Alex Kemp react after winning the prestigious Michelin star for Her Place Supper Club at Tuesday’s Michelin ceremony at the Kimmel Center.
CL: My big takeaway is that this is just the beginning. Michelin has made its initial preferences known, but will surely add to its recommendations every year. Places like D.C., whose dining scene I believe we can compete with, only has more stars because it’s been at it longer. My only hope is that restaurateurs keep cooking from the heart, and that they don’t alter what they do simply in pursuit of a star.
I think the aspects of this city that have made it such a draw for out-of-town chefs in recent years (the affordability, low bar to access, a sophisticated audience) will equally draw chefs who aspire to build a Michelin-style restaurant here. It will cost less to do it than D.C. or NYC! (Even if Nich Bazik might protest that fact). In Philly, everything now is on the table, and I’m kind of more excited than I expected to be to see now where it heads.
Barely 12 hours after Michelin included the fine-dining destination Laurel among its list of Recommended restaurants, chef Nicholas Elmi delivered the news that its final night of service would be Friday.
Laurel’s closing after 12 years had been set in motion over the summer, as Elmi told The Inquirer in June that its lease was ending and that he wanted to open in Rittenhouse.
Wednesday’s announcement on Instagram included word that reservations were available for a seven-course meal prepared by Elmi and chef de cuisine Kevin McWilliams.
Chef/owner Nicholas Elmi, general manager Jane Fryer, and chef Kevin McWilliams outside of Laurel on Wednesday, Aug. 23, 2023.
Although honored with the Michelin accolade, “I feel like I’ve known what’s been going on over the past year, so I’ve already gone through the whole gamut of emotions,” Elmi said. “Last night was incredibly motivational for me — it made me redouble my efforts and figure out what my next step is. So that’s where I am: keeping my options open, keeping my eyes open, and trying to remain inspired.”
The closing a week before Thanksgiving after a five-month wind-down was intentional. “Everyone’s starting new jobs in December, so it lets them take a week and a half off, get through Thanksgiving, decompress a little before moving on to the next stage of their lives and careers,” he said. “And it gives me the month of December to clear the place out and get myself organized. Winding down a business isn’t just flipping a switch — there’s a lot of paperwork to get through right now.”
Elmi said he was looking forward to family time as well as focusing on his Bala Cynwyd restaurants Lark and the Landing Kitchen, as well as the Pump House events venue, which he own with Fia Berisha.
What’s next for Elmi and Laurel?
The new restaurant will not be the same as Laurel, he said. “As the culinary landscape of Philadelphia has changed, Laurel needs to be updated, whatever form that takes. There are a couple of different concepts we’re playing with right now. I think Michelin is certainly going to improve the aspect of fine dining in Philadelphia, and I want to take some time to figure out what that means to me in the context of how I’ve grown up cooking and doing fine dining over the past 20 years.”
He said he was unsure if the Laurel name will continue.: “There’s a big part of me that understands Laurel is a recognized, branded name. But Laurel was also a little, tiny, beautiful restaurant stuffed into an apartment on a street in South Philadelphia. It was so intimate and so fun, and it represented a really cool moment in my life — being able to cook like that, and cook so freely.
“There’s part of me that wants that to remain a memory, not only for myself but for the people who worked there and for the guests who came through over the past 12 years. So I’m still struggling with the idea. I’d love to carry the name on, but that name carries weight, and there’s an expectation that comes with it. Moving into something different isn’t off the table.”
For the first time ever, Philadelphia has a Michelin star. Three, in fact. Plus 31 other restaurants with Michelin acclaim, including three cheesesteak spots!
Sunday’s Philadelphia Marathon wends from Old City out to Manayunk. If you’re watching with kids, here are 10 restaurants that can accommodate everyone relatively painlessly.
Chef Yehuda Sichel of the sandwich shop Huda has gone into the burger biz with Huda Burger, set right in the middle of everything in Fishtown. The secret sauce, as it were, is his fluffy, house-made milk buns.
Luna Cafe in Kensington is making a short but substantial move, ceding its home at Third Street and Cecil B. Moore Avenue for a new space two blocks away at the Luxe (1705 N. American St.), allowing owner Sarah Varisano to grow the brand without leaving the neighborhood she’s called home for 13 years. Varisano, who started Luna in Old City 10 years ago as a new Drexel University MBA grad, will close the current cafe after brunch service on Dec. 14 and expects an April reopening. Luna’s familiar identity — full-service brunch, breakfast, coffee-to-go — will remain, while its bar and beverage program will expand. Evening hours will be added Thursday through Saturday. A key Luxe draw is the large outdoor courtyard, which Varisano expects to activate with about 50 seats for brunch, evening service, collaborations, and pop-ups.
Palm Vintage Cafe — cafe by day, high-end cocktails and sushi by night — is on the way this winter to 1414 S. Penn Square (next to La Colombe and across from City Hall at the Residences at the Ritz Carlton). Houston Yang, who also owns the new Fushimi sushi counter at Two Liberty Place, and friend Mike Beja, an engineer, plan to offer pastries, breakfast sandwiches, salads, lunch sandwiches, and coffee from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Then it goes to cocktails, sushi, caviar, oysters, and light food till 10 p.m. The tropical motif is meant to evoke a relaxed island escape in the middle of Center City.
Mei Mei in Old City is undergoing renovations. Meanwhile, owner Jay Ho is taking over the former Izakaya Fishtown space next spring with Kato, an homage to his Taiwanese father and the food he grew up eating, amped by his love of Korean, Thai, and Vietnamese cooking. Ho plans to keep the front bar intact but will transform the back sushi counter area into additional dining space with the option for private dining.
Capperini, a luxe spot serving an Italian-Mediterranean menu with a liquor license, is on its way to 137 S. Easton Rd. (at Wesley Avenue) in Glenside. Co-owner Ilya Vorobey, whose partners include the crew from Capri in Queen Village, says it should open next spring.
Restaurant report
Antonio Garcia, longtime chef of Italian restaurant Ariano in downtown Media, will open his own BYOB, Taquero, on the same block. The menu will pay homage to his Mexican roots. Above is fideo seco — noodles in a chipotle broth, served with queso fresco, crema, lump crab, and avocado. Read on as Lisa Dukart runs down the other specialties in advance of Taquero’s opening Monday on Veterans Square.
Briefly noted
Rocket Cat Cafe is not coming back to Fishtown. The long-delayed LeoFigs decided to have some fun with its neighbors with a bit of a ruse.
Nan Xiang Soup Dumplings, the acclaimed Shanghainese restaurant that scored a “Michelin-recommended” tag at its flagship in Queens, has set Thursday for the opening of its first Delaware location in the Christiana Shopping District, 101 Geoffrey Drive, Newark.
St. Oners, Tired Hands Brewing Co.’s eatery at 2218 Frankford Ave., will mark the release of its cannabis-inspired beer Stoner Hands on Thursday (3-10 p.m.) with an a la carte Mexican pairing menu from chef Antonio Hidalgo. Attendees get a sample pint of Stoner Hands, a 5.5% ABV terpene-infused pale ale.
Chef Nana Araba Wilmot, whose cooking is shaped by her Ghanaian heritage and informed by French, Spanish, Southern, and Asian traditions, will host a Love That I Knead Supperclub installment themed to the cultural and culinary ties between Ghana and Jamaica. The BYO dinner, hosted by 5to9 Hospitality Group, will be from 5 to 7:30 p.m. Sunday in Fishtown. It’s three courses plus welcome bites ($120 for chef’s table, $95 for general seating). A portion of proceeds benefits the Walkgood Jamaica Hurricane Relief Fund. Details are here.
Paris Baguette’s first South Jersey location will ribbon-cut at 3:30 p.m. Monday at Moorestown’s East Gate Shopping Center (105 Mall Link Rd.). Franchisees are IT professionals Ami and David Shah.
Tickets for the James Beard Foundation’s Taste America: Philadelphia 2026 — it’s March 18 at the Grand Belle at the Bellevue — are now online.
❓Pop quiz
What is the manufacturer PepsiCo doing with Doritos and Cheetos to make them more healthful?
What is happening on Washington Avenue near Front Street? It looks like a huge space, and yet from what I can tell online, it is a coffee shop? — Amanda J.
It will be the first Philadelphia location of Trung Nguyên Legend, the powerhouse Vietnamese coffee brand behind the G7 instant line and animal-free “weasel” coffee. Grand opening is noted in its social media as Nov. 29. It started in 1996 in Vietnam’s Central Highlands and has grown into a global chain of philosophically themed cafés and franchises, now pushing into the United States. “Weasel coffee?” you ask. That’s Vietnam’s famed civet-style brew; traditionally made from beans eaten and excreted by civets, it’s now recreated by Trung Nguyên through an enzyme-fermentation process that mimics the flavor without using animals.
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For the first time ever, Philadelphia has a Michelin star. Three, in fact.
Friday Saturday Sunday, Her Place Supper Club, and Provenance were each awarded a star, capping a brilliant showing as 31 other Philadelphia restaurants — including three cheesesteak shops — received honors in the city’s debut in Michelin, arguably the world’s most prestigious restaurant awards.
Tuesday night’s Northeast Cities ceremony — which included restaurants from Chicago, Washington, D.C., New York, and Boston (also in its Michelin debut) — drew hundreds of culinary professionals from around the world to the Kimmel Center, whose facade was lit up in Michelin’s signature red. The attendees were a who’s who of the culinary world, including chefs Thomas Keller and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and drew dozens of the city’s best-known chefs and restaurateurs, such as Greg Vernick, Marc Vetri, Omar Tate, and Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, Jesse Ito, and Ellen Yin.
Hanna Williams looks on as her husband, chef Chad Williams, and Lynette Brown-Sow do a FaceTime after the Michelin awards at the Kimmel Center. Brown-Sow has known Chad Williams since he was a baby.
Ten Philadelphia restaurants received a Bib Gourmand — recognized as great food at a great value, though not star-worthy. They represent a mixed bag of cuisines and price points: cheesesteaks (Angelo’s, Dalessandro’s, Del Rossi’s), Israeli cuisine (Dizengoff), Mexican (El Chingón), pizza (Pizzeria Beddia, Sally), casual pasta (Fiorella), Japanese (Royal Sushi & Izakaya), and classic Jewish deli (Famous 4th Street Deli).
Michelin deemed 21 other Philadelphia restaurants as Recommended: Ambra, Forsythia, High Street, Hiroki, Honeysuckle, Illata, Kalaya, Laser Wolf, Laurel (whose final night will be Nov. 21), Little Water, Mish Mish, My Loup, Pietramala, River Twice, Roxanne, Southwark, Suraya, Vedge, Vernick Food & Drink, Vetri Cucina, and Zahav. Michelin says these restaurants serve high-quality food and use good ingredients.
Joe Beddia (from left), Greg Root, Nick Kennedy (rear), Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, and Roland Kassis with the Michelin Man at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the. Kimmel Center.
Besides the Recommended honor, Pietramala — chef Ian Graye’s vegan restaurant in Northern Liberties — was awarded a Green Star for demonstrating commitment to sustainability.
All can use the name “Michelin” in their marketing, a powerful tool that potentially boosts business.
Michelin, which operates in secrecy, bases the selections on its anonymous inspectors. Stars denote excellence: one star signals very good cuisine that’s “worth a stop,” two stars indicate excellence “worth a detour,” and three stars represent exceptional dining “worth a special journey.”
Chef Jesse Ito and Mia Colona at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesdy at the Kimmel Center.
The ceremony, a milestone for Philadelphia’s profile as a dining destination, was the city’s highest-profile appearance since 2018, when the James Beard Foundation announced that year’s finalists for its annual chef, restaurant, and media awards in a ceremony at Parc.
It was a night of camaraderie, pride, and emotion. After heading to the stage to acknowledge Angelo’s Pizzeria’s Bib Gourmand, owner Danny DiGiampietro disappeared for a bit. “I had a walk outside,” he explained later. “I can’t stop crying.”
Philadelphia’s one-stars
Friday Saturday Sunday chef Chad Williams and his wife, Hanna, took over this storied Rittenhouse restaurant in 2016 and pivoted to a set multicourse menu. “Thanks to skilled technique, just the right amount of innovation and an innate understanding of the luxury ingredients he uses, his dishes fill the mouth with flavor and succulence,” the Michelin blurb reads. “His delicious crispy sweetbreads will convert any skeptic; quail with pâte plays with texture, and the New York strip is a lesson in expert seasoning. There’s a great cocktail bar on the first floor; the long, narrow, lively and warmly run restaurant is up a steep flight of stairs — and those stairs will seem even steeper when it’s time to leave. Expect an atmosphere as spirited and enjoyable as the food.”
Amanda Shulman (right) and her husband and business partner, Alex Kemp, giggle after winning a Michelin star for Her Place Supper Club at the Michelin ceremony at the Kimmel Center on Tuesday.
Her Place Supper Club, also in Rittenhouse, was born out of chef Amanda Shulman’s cooking for friends in her Penn campus apartment. Michelin praised its “warm and welcoming supper club vibe.” While diners may get their own table, “there’s a real communal feel at play here; everyone is served at the same time after Amanda has explained to the room the makeup of each dish and perhaps the influence behind it.”
Provenance, chef Nicholas Bazik’s sumptuous atelier across from Headhouse Square, delivers what Michelin calls “a high-wire, high-stakes performance defined by precision, harmony, and, of course, taste. Korean and French influences come and go with this elaborate tasting menu where special soys, vibrant oils and glossy sauces give wonderful dimension to pristine seafood and dry-aged proteins. Think Japanese tuna with whipped tofu, puffed sorghum and chili oil or brown butter hollandaise with country ham, caviar and cauliflower. The ideas are original, the flavors bold.”
The Michelin effect
All this boils down to commerce. City and state tourism boards have increasingly turned to Michelin — the French-based tire company that has been publishing the influential dining guides for decades — as food tourism plays a growing role in travel planning.
Ian Graye of Pietramala accepts a Green Star award at Tuesday’s Michelin Guide announcement event at the Kimmel Center.
Michelin has expanded rapidly in the United States over the last several years. Besides the American South region — covering Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Tennessee — there are guides for Texas and Colorado. Atlanta’s 2023 guide has since been rolled into the South. The Florida guide, launched in 2022, now includes Miami, Orlando, and Tampa. Internationally, it recently arrived in Qatar, New Zealand, and the Philippines.
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The Philadelphia Convention and Visitors Bureau cites an Ernst & Young study, commissioned by Michelin, showing the guide’s influence: 74% of travelers consider Michelin’s presence a decisive factor when choosing a destination; 76% say they would extend a trip to dine at a recommended restaurant; and 80% report being willing to pay more for what they view as a Michelin-level dining experience.
For restaurants that receive distinctions, the impact is immediate as restaurants append “Michelin” to their social-media profiles.
The energetic and anxious crowd of chefs and restauranteurs during the Michelin ceremony at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025.
The reservations boost can be dramatic. In Charlotte, the 18-seat Counter sold about 900 reservations in the days after earning a star at the 2025 American South ceremony on Nov. 3, booking out through mid-February, chef-owner Sam Hart told Axios. About half the reservations came from out-of-town guests, including some international travelers.
In many U.S. markets, the guide is explicitly part of tourism strategies: Axios has reported that the states included in the South edition are collectively paying Michelin $5 million over three years. PHLCVB has not disclosed how much it paid for Michelin’s partnership, which was announced in May.
Chefs Jean Georges Vongerichten (left) and Thomas Keller posed with the Michelin Man ahead of Tuesday night’s ceremony at the Kimmel Center.
Not only can reservations rise, so can menu prices at the winning restaurants. A widely cited 2018 analysis by Carly Shin of George Washington University found that a one-star rating increases menu prices by about 15%, two stars by 55%, and three stars by roughly 80%.
Michelin says that 82% of chefs report increased revenue after receiving a distinction, 60% add new staff, and 58% say a nod boosts team motivation and morale — though anecdotally, some chefs acknowledge enormous pressure to maintain such a high level.
Michelin’s arrival has inspired the PHLCVB Foundation to sponsor the Philabundance Community Kitchen program, a 16-week culinary vocational training and life-skills program for adults with low or no income, offering hands-on kitchen experience, ServSafe certification, and post-graduation employment support in the food service and restaurant industry. The foundation will connect the recognized chefs and restaurateurs to the PCK program.
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Philly earns three Michelin stars
The Philadelphia chefs acknowledged at the Michelin Guide announcements at the Kimmel Center Tuesday.
For the first time ever, Philadelphia has a Michelin star. Three, in fact.
Chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp won a prestigious Michelin star for Her Place Supper Club. She started in the biz by cooking for friends at her Penn campus apartment. The second star went to Chad and Hanna Williams’ Friday Saturday Sunday. And the third restaurant to earn a star was Nicholas Bazik’s Provenance.
Michelin added 21 Philadelphia restaurants to their “Michelin Recommended” category: Ambra, Forsythia, High Street, Hiroki, Honeysuckle, Illata, Kalaya, Laser Wolf, Laurel, Little Water, Mish Mish, My Loup, Pietramala, River Twice, Roxanne, Southwark, Suraya, Vedge, Vernick Food & Drink, Vetri Cucina, and Zahav. The broader Recommended (or “Selected”) category includes restaurants deemed noteworthy and reliably good.
Ian Graye at Pietramala won a Michelin Green star. This distinction is given to restaurants that demonstrate commitment to sustainability.
Below the star level is the Bib Gourmand, highlighting restaurants offering high-quality food at good value, usually in a more casual format. Philadelphia also got strong representation in that category. Angelo’s, Dalessandro’s, Del Rossi’s, Fiorella, El Chingon, Dizengoff, 4th Street Deli, Pizzeria Beddia, Royal Sushi & Izakaya, and Sally all were awarded Bib Gourmands.
Cheesesteaks dominated Philly’s surprising list of Bib Gourmands
A cheesesteak at Del Rossi’s.
Of all the Michelin choices, the most surprising category was the Bib Gourmands.
There are three cheesesteak specialists on the list — Angelo’s, Dalessandro’s, and Del Rossi’s — but only El Chingon as representative for the city’s huge Mexican scene.
Fiorella also seems like an odd choice for a Bib — sure, it’s “high quality food at a moderate price” but it’s in a difference price bracket than say, Dizengoff.
Of the three restaurants that actually received a star, only Friday Saturday Sunday received a majority of their vote, with 63.3% of readers saying they’ll win one.
Her Place Supper Club (34.9%) and Provenance (37.8%) fared much better in the real awards than readers gave them credit for.
A majority of Inquirer readers also gave stars to Royal Sushi & Izakaya (65.9%), Kalaya (59.3%), and Zahav (51.4%) – all three received recommendations but no stars.
It’s hard to overstate the broader influence of Her Place Supper Club, with its frequently changing tasting menus, TED Talk-like course narrations, and Instagram-stoked reservation scrambles that helped launch Amanda Shulman’s star. But the James Beard-nominated chef has never lost sight of the goal of making her original 24-seat gem into one of Philly’s most exquisitely polished dining experiences, with a thoughtfully concise drink program, an ever-whimsical vibe, and hyper-seasonal menus with French, Italian, and nostalgic Jewish influences, crafted together with chef de cuisine Ana Caballero and sous chef Santina Renzi. Whether it’s a refreshing red drum crudo over chilled cucumber-honeydew gazpacho, smoky lamb merguez with eggplant and chanterelles, or delicate caramelle dumplings stuffed with sweet corn over creamy blue cheese sauce, the dishes here are a pitch-perfect collaboration of an all-female kitchen locked in sync. Cultivating that team has been essential as Shulman’s gone on to open My Loup with husband Alex Kemp and readies another project on Fitler Square. Her Place’s continued success very much reflects that Shulman has allowed it to become their place, too.
The octopus and beans from the bar menu at Friday Saturday Sunday.
The buzz might seem impossible to live up to for Friday Saturday Sunday after being named most outstanding restaurant in America by the James Beard Foundation in 2023. But with one astounding bite after another on the recent tasting menu — starting with a shatteringly crisp, thimble-sized cup of nori pastry filled with a tartare duo of veal and tuna, all crowned with caviar — Chad and Hanna Williams are clearly not resting on any laurels. Their townhouse oasis off Rittenhouse Square, already the most exciting fine dining experience in Philly, has only gotten better. The airy beignet stuffed with braised oxtail and smoked yam purée was so ethereal, I wished it was more than just a singular “snack.” Pastry chef Amanda Rafalski’s strawberry tarte may also be the most beautiful strawberry confection I’ve ever eaten. It was so vivid, we needed to pause on the way out for a celebratory drink at the ground-floor Lovers Bar, whose leopard-print stools are designated for walk-ins only. It’s a worthwhile stop on any visit to spin Paul MacDonald’s brilliant cocktail carousel for a lucky mystery drink, sip through several obscure amari, and conclude (once again) that the hype for Friday Saturday Sunday is absolutely legit.
Steelhead Trout “En Croûte” with beurre cancalaise served at Provenance.
When you’re paying $225 to sit down for a 2½ hour dinner (figure between $700 or $800 for two all-in with tip and tax, depending on what you drink), there isn’t much room for error. And there are still too many menu missteps at Provenance, where only about half of the 47 compositions I tasted over two meals were a complete success.The focal point of Provenance is an 11-seat counter wrapped around a gleaming steel kitchen that is also a stage — where chefs and servers are the protagonists. And the drama is high at Provenance, the most ambitious French fine-dining project to open in Philly since Jean-Georges in 2019.Such a grand tasting should, ideally, paint a picture with a compelling narrative and a distinct point of view. For Bazik, who has spent 15 years in local kitchens, including Fork, Bistrot La Minette, Good King Tavern, and Lacroix at the Rittenhouse, that portrait is clearly of his passion for updating French classics with influences from the Korean pantry, introduced to him by his wife, Eunbin Whang.Details, however, too frequently marred the bigger picture. With such intricate compositions, where there are bull’s-eyes of sauces within sauces within sauces, the slip of a knife, the rapid cooling of a protein meant to be served hot, or the miscalculated intensity of any one element, can tip the balance.
Notable Michelin snubs include Kalaya, Royal Sushi & Izakaya
Chef-owner Jesse Ito at work at Royal Sushi & Izakaya.
Giving Kalaya and Vetri Cucina a recommended but not a star was a notable snub. But perhaps the spiciest choice of the night was awarding a Bib Gourmand to Jesse Ito’s Royal Sushi & Omakase, long considered a star contender.
One wonders if the inspectors had trouble getting into the vaunted omakase.
Another notable snub: Phila and Rachel Lorn, owners of Mawn and Sao, were nowhere to be seen. Nor was Northeast restaurant impresario Stephen Starr.
Provenance, open less than a year, awarded a Michelin star
Chef Nicholas Bazik, of Provenance with wife Eunbin Whang, is awarded a star at Tuesday’s Michelin ceremony.
Provenance, chef Nicholas Bazik’s hushed atelier across from Headhouse Square, was awarded a star — a stunning development for a restaurant open less than a year.
Michelin international director Gwendal Poullennec asked Bazik what his inspiration was. He pointed to his wife, Eunbin Whang.
First-ever Philly Michelin star goes to Her Place Supper Club
Chef and owner Amanda Shulman sweeps between seatings at Her Place Supper Club.
For the first time ever, Philadelphia has a Michelin star.
Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp won the prestigious Michelin star for Her Place Supper Club. She started in the biz by cooking for friends at her Penn campus apartment.
Shulman started in the biz by cooking for friends at her Penn campus apartment.
The energetic and anxious crowd of chefs and restauranteurs during the Michelin ceremony at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025.
// Timestamp 11/18/25 7:13pm
Watch live: Michelin awards ceremony in Philly
// Timestamp 11/18/25 6:50pm
Jean-Georges Vongerichten hopes to add to his Michelin star collection
(From left) Kateryna Brooke, Jean Georges Vongerichten, and Marc Vetri during the cocktail hour at the Kimmel Center.
Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten drew a crowd of onlookers.
Vongerichten is one of the most decorated restaurateurs ever, and recalled his first Michelin experience in 1973 when his parents took him to dine at the three-starred Auberge de l’Ill in Alsace.
I asked him how many Michelin stars he had among his restaurants and he said, “I don’t know. My whole head is full of stars. I hope to pick up more tonight.”
Kimmel lobby getting crowded ahead of Michelin ceremony
Chef Marc Vetri (left), and Chad Williams, of Friday Saturday Sunday, during the cocktail hour at the Kimmel Center.
The Kimmel lobby is becoming a crush of people, photographers, and cater-waiters, handing out wine and hors d’oeuvres.
There is a lot of French being spoken in the crowd, befitting Michelin.
“I always get nervous before an awards ceremony,” said chef Marc Vetri, here with his wife and a crew of five people, including his business partner, Jeff Benjamin.
“These events are great,” Vetri said. “I can say, ‘hey, chef,’ and not worry about their name.”
The lobby of the Kimmel Center ahead of the Michelin ceremony Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025.
Michelin has editions of its Red Guide to cover regions around the world. It started in France.
There are a lot of factors at play, but to get an estimate, let’s look at how other cities fared in 2024’s guides.
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With almost two decades of guides under its belt and a population of almost 8.5 million, it’s no surprise that New York City topped the list of cities with the most starred restaurants in 2024. New York City was the first American city to get a Michelin Guide, in 2006.
In this top ten both Atlanta and Washington, D.C., serve as a better comparison to Philly. Atlanta, with about 513,000 residents, earned five one-star ratings in 2023, the first year that Michelin awarded stars there. Washington’s population was about 700,000 in 2017, the same year the Michelin Guide was introduced there and awarded 15 restaurants with star ratings. Population isn’t always a good indicator though. Houston, with 2.3 million residents, earned six stars in its first year.
Kiki Aranita, a food writer (and former chef and restaurateur) for The Inquirer, predicts four or five Philadelphia restaurants will earn a Michelin star this year. She also thinks we might see a Bib Gourmand or two.
Will Philly get any two- or three-star ratings?
Paula Forbes, a senior writer and restaurant critic at Texas Monthly who has reported on the Michelin Guide in Texas, says that “generally speaking, I think that there is sort of an attitude towards, you have to kind of grow into it. You have to get your first star, then your second star, and then your third star.”
Restaurants often don’t earn a two- or three-star rating the first time they achieve a rating and it often takes several years for a restaurant to move up a rank, if at all. Texas has yet to earn a two- or three-star rating. In its third year, Colorado gained its first two-star rating.
Michelin’s guide to France. The tire company premiered its guides in 1900 as a promotional tool.
City and state tourism boards partner with Michelin — the French-based tire company that has been publishing the influential dining guides for decades — as food tourism plays a growing role in travel planning.
Michelin has expanded rapidly in the United States over the last several years. Besides the American South region — covering Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Tennessee — there are guides for Texas and Colorado. Atlanta’s 2023 guide has since been rolled into the South. The Florida guide, launched in 2022, now includes Miami, Orlando, and Tampa. Internationally, it recently arrived in Qatar, New Zealand, and the Philippines.
The Philadelphia Convention and Visitors Bureau cites an Ernst & Young study, commissioned by Michelin, showing the guide’s influence: 74% of travelers consider Michelin’s presence a decisive factor when choosing a destination; 76% say they would extend a trip to dine at a recommended restaurant; and 80% report being willing to pay more for what they view as a Michelin-level dining experience.
For restaurants that receive distinctions, the impact is immediate as restaurants append “Michelin” to their social-media profiles.
The reservations boost can be dramatic. In Charlotte, the 18-seat Counter sold about 900 reservations in the days after earning a star at the 2025 American South ceremony on Nov. 3, booking out through mid-February, chef-owner Sam Hart told Axios. About half the reservations came from out-of-town guests, including some international travelers.
In many U.S. markets, the guide is explicitly part of tourism strategies: Axios has reported that the states included in the South edition are collectively paying Michelin $5 million over three years. PHLCVB has not disclosed how much it paid for Michelin’s partnership, which was announced in May.
Not only can reservations rise, so can menu prices at the winning restaurants. A widely cited 2018 analysis by Carly Shin of George Washington University found that a one-star rating increases menu prices by about 15%, two stars by 55%, and three stars by roughly 80%.
Michelin says that 82% of chefs report increased revenue after receiving a distinction, 60% add new staff, and 58% say a nod boosts team motivation and morale — though anecdotally, some chefs acknowledge enormous pressure to maintain such a high level.
In connection with Michelin, the PHLCVB Foundation is sponsoring the Philabundance Community Kitchen program, a 16-week culinary vocational training and life-skills program for adults with low or no income, offering hands-on kitchen experience, ServSafe certification, and post-graduation employment support in the food service and restaurant industry. The foundation will connect the recognized chefs and restaurateurs to the PCK program.
Rittenhouse Square weighs in on which spots deserve Michelin stars
// Timestamp 11/18/25 12:20pm
What to expect at tonight’s Michelin ceremony
Gwendal Poullennec, the Michelin Guide’s international director, will help emcee tonight’s ceremony.
Awards will be presented live with TV host Java Ingram serving as emcee alongside Gwendal Poullennec, the Michelin Guide’s international director. Gregg Caren, president and CEO of the PHLCVB, will open the evening.
Lillia Callum-Penso, a reporter who covered the American South awards for the Greenville News earlier this month, said she was struck by the atmosphere onstage during the ceremony. Many of the chefs already knew one another from festivals or previous jobs. “There was a lot of conviviality among the chefs when they were called on stage,” she said. “It was kind of moving — that to me was a very telling and interesting part of the ceremony.”
Michelin may be a huge part of the foodie lexicon, but it might not be a household word everywhere. Because Michelin North America’s headquarters are in Greenville, “people in Greenville know Michelin as the tire company,” Callum-Penso said.
Many residents, she said, were surprised to learn “there’s a whole lifestyle component to Michelin.”
Philly in the spotlight as chefs gather for prestigious Michelin awards
Gwendal Poullennec, Michelin’s international director, attends a dinner in Michelin’s honor in May at Philadelphia’s Her Place Supper Club.
Philadelphia will be thrust onto the world culinary stage tonight as chefs, restaurateurs, tourism officials, sponsors, and international media gather at the Kimmel Center for the unveiling of the Michelin Guide’s expanded Northeast Cities edition. It covers restaurants in Chicago, New York, Washington, D.C., and, for the first time, Boston and Philadelphia.
The ceremony, marking a milestone for Philadelphia’s profile as a dining destination, is the city’s highest-profile appearance since 2018, when the James Beard Foundation announced that year’s finalists for its annual chef, restaurant, and media awards.
Given that five cities are involved — with two newcomers — it’s likely that more than a hundred restaurants will be honored tonight overall. The results will appear online only; there will be no published book.
Michelin, which operates in secrecy, bases the selections on its anonymous inspectors. Stars denote excellence: one star signals very good cuisine that’s “worth a stop,” two stars indicate excellence “worth a detour,” and three stars represent exceptional dining “worth a special journey.” Below the star level is the Bib Gourmand, highlighting restaurants offering high-quality food at good value, usually in a more casual format. The broader Recommended (or “Selected”) category includes restaurants deemed noteworthy and reliably good. There also is a Green Star, given to restaurants that demonstrate commitments to sustainability. Restaurants, not the chefs, get the award.
In Philadelphia, speculation on who will win — and even who was invited to the ceremony — is all chefs have been talking about for the last several weeks. Michelin does not inform winners beforehand (though early this month, the list of the American South winners was accidentally leaked 12 hours before the ceremony in Greenville, S.C.).
Last week, Michelin did inform the owners of three three-star restaurants — Alinea, the Inn at Little Washington, and Masa — that they would each lose a star at tonight’s awards.
As Philadelphia City Hall was lit up in Michelin red last night, the partying began. OpenTable took over Sao, a hot, new South Philadelphia restaurant, for a cocktail reception for chefs who use the reservation platform. Guests included Ian Graye of Pietramala, Omar Tate of Honeysuckle, and Chad and Hanna Williams of Friday Saturday Sunday.
Late this afternoon, chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten will host a private reception at Jean-Georges Philadelphia at the Four Seasons, with chefs shuttled to the ceremony by private bus. A cocktail hour will precede the awards, and multiple after-parties are scheduled, including a gathering at the Arts Ballroom sponsored by OpenTable and Evian, and a Resy/Amex and Visit Philly takeover at Dancerobot — the new Center City izakaya from Jesse Ito and Justin Bacharach — featuring drinks, food, and karaoke.
Michelin Stars are finally coming to Philly. How well will the city’s restaurants fare?
A Michelin star is a coveted award among restaurants and chefs and is the most prestigious of the awards the Michelin Guide bestows. Only 259 restaurants in the United States earned a star rating in 2024. In addition to the star ratings, the Michelin Guide also awards the Bib Gourmand to recognize restaurants that are serving high-quality meals at a reasonable price and a Green Star to symbolize excellence in sustainability.
Restaurants are not nominated nor do they apply to be evaluated. Stars are awarded annually and can be lost or gained year-on-year. Michelin keeps most details of the process secret, but we know a few vague details.
Anonymous inspectors visit restaurants multiple times to evaluate the restaurant during different dining periods, different days of the week, and different seasons. Restaurants around the world are evaluated by the same inspectors, to ensure that restaurants are judged by the same standards, and those inspectors make decisions to award stars as a collective.
Inspectors evaluate based on the following criteria:
South Philly weighs in on what spots deserve Michelin stars
What will Michelin mean for the Philly restaurant scene?
Provenance chef-owner Nicholas Bazik greets guest in the Headhouse Square restaurant on Oct. 17, 2024.
Dining rooms in Philly are abuzz with talk of Michelin’s impending arrival in Philadelphia —whose stars (or lack thereof) are set to be announced on Tuesday.
On a recent night, while celebrating my wedding anniversary at the elegant Friday Saturday Sunday, diners at tables on either side of mine discussed the potential of the restaurant winning a star. That same week, at the hushed, luxe soapstone counter at Provenance, where spotlights shine precisely upon the parade of twenty-some courses (which costs $300 inclusive of tax and service charge, but not beverages) placed in front of diners, Michelin was brought up by every single guest to chef Nich Bazik as he made his rounds.
“I’ve been to a lot of Michelin-starred places and they’ve been mediocre. But I think you’re going to get one,” I overheard one diner telling Bazik.
Anticipation is high. But what would getting Michelin recognition actually mean to Philadelphia restaurants? In at least one case, it might translate to survival. For the rest of the city, the guide’s arrival is both foreboding and exciting.
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