Category: Restaurants

  • A night of Michelin culinary stars and even a few cheesesteaks: Philly’s big showing in the restaurant awards

    A night of Michelin culinary stars and even a few cheesesteaks: Philly’s big showing in the restaurant awards

    For the first time ever, Philadelphia has a Michelin star. Three, in fact.

    Friday Saturday Sunday, Her Place Supper Club, and Provenance were each awarded a star, capping a brilliant showing as 31 other Philadelphia restaurants — including three cheesesteak shops — received honors in the city’s debut in Michelin, arguably the world’s most prestigious restaurant awards.

    Tuesday night’s Northeast Cities ceremony — which included restaurants from Chicago, Washington, D.C., New York, and Boston (also in its Michelin debut) — drew hundreds of culinary professionals from around the world to the Kimmel Center, whose facade was lit up in Michelin’s signature red. The attendees were a who’s who of the culinary world, including chefs Thomas Keller and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and drew dozens of the city’s best-known chefs and restaurateurs, such as Greg Vernick, Marc Vetri, Omar Tate, and Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, Jesse Ito, and Ellen Yin.

    Hanna Williams looks on as her husband, chef Chad Williams, and Lynette Brown-Sow do a FaceTime after the Michelin awards at the Kimmel Center. Brown-Sow has known Chad Williams since he was a baby.

    Ten Philadelphia restaurants received a Bib Gourmand — recognized as great food at a great value, though not star-worthy. They represent a mixed bag of cuisines and price points: cheesesteaks (Angelo’s, Dalessandro’s, Del Rossi’s), Israeli cuisine (Dizengoff), Mexican (El Chingón), pizza (Pizzeria Beddia, Sally), casual pasta (Fiorella), Japanese (Royal Sushi & Izakaya), and classic Jewish deli (Famous 4th Street Deli).

    Michelin deemed 21 other Philadelphia restaurants as Recommended: Ambra, Forsythia, High Street, Hiroki, Honeysuckle, Illata, Kalaya, Laser Wolf, Laurel (whose final night will be Nov. 21), Little Water, Mish Mish, My Loup, Pietramala, River Twice, Roxanne, Southwark, Suraya, Vedge, Vernick Food & Drink, Vetri Cucina, and Zahav. Michelin says these restaurants serve high-quality food and use good ingredients.

    Joe Beddia (from left), Greg Root, Nick Kennedy (rear), Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, and Roland Kassis with the Michelin Man at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the. Kimmel Center.

    Besides the Recommended honor, Pietramala — chef Ian Graye’s vegan restaurant in Northern Liberties — was awarded a Green Star for demonstrating commitment to sustainability.

    All can use the name “Michelin” in their marketing, a powerful tool that potentially boosts business.

    Michelin, which operates in secrecy, bases the selections on its anonymous inspectors. Stars denote excellence: one star signals very good cuisine that’s “worth a stop,” two stars indicate excellence “worth a detour,” and three stars represent exceptional dining “worth a special journey.”

    Chef Jesse Ito and Mia Colona at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesdy at the Kimmel Center.

    The ceremony, a milestone for Philadelphia’s profile as a dining destination, was the city’s highest-profile appearance since 2018, when the James Beard Foundation announced that year’s finalists for its annual chef, restaurant, and media awards in a ceremony at Parc.

    It was a night of camaraderie, pride, and emotion. After heading to the stage to acknowledge Angelo’s Pizzeria’s Bib Gourmand, owner Danny DiGiampietro disappeared for a bit. “I had a walk outside,” he explained later. “I can’t stop crying.”

    Philadelphia’s one-stars

    Friday Saturday Sunday chef Chad Williams and his wife, Hanna, took over this storied Rittenhouse restaurant in 2016 and pivoted to a set multicourse menu. “Thanks to skilled technique, just the right amount of innovation and an innate understanding of the luxury ingredients he uses, his dishes fill the mouth with flavor and succulence,” the Michelin blurb reads. “His delicious crispy sweetbreads will convert any skeptic; quail with pâte plays with texture, and the New York strip is a lesson in expert seasoning. There’s a great cocktail bar on the first floor; the long, narrow, lively and warmly run restaurant is up a steep flight of stairs — and those stairs will seem even steeper when it’s time to leave. Expect an atmosphere as spirited and enjoyable as the food.”

    Amanda Shulman (right) and her husband and business partner, Alex Kemp, giggle after winning a Michelin star for Her Place Supper Club at the Michelin ceremony at the Kimmel Center on Tuesday.

    Her Place Supper Club, also in Rittenhouse, was born out of chef Amanda Shulman’s cooking for friends in her Penn campus apartment. Michelin praised its “warm and welcoming supper club vibe.” While diners may get their own table, “there’s a real communal feel at play here; everyone is served at the same time after Amanda has explained to the room the makeup of each dish and perhaps the influence behind it.”

    Provenance, chef Nicholas Bazik’s sumptuous atelier across from Headhouse Square, delivers what Michelin calls “a high-wire, high-stakes performance defined by precision, harmony, and, of course, taste. Korean and French influences come and go with this elaborate tasting menu where special soys, vibrant oils and glossy sauces give wonderful dimension to pristine seafood and dry-aged proteins. Think Japanese tuna with whipped tofu, puffed sorghum and chili oil or brown butter hollandaise with country ham, caviar and cauliflower. The ideas are original, the flavors bold.”

    The Michelin effect

    All this boils down to commerce. City and state tourism boards have increasingly turned to Michelin — the French-based tire company that has been publishing the influential dining guides for decades — as food tourism plays a growing role in travel planning.

    Ian Graye of Pietramala accepts a Green Star award at Tuesday’s Michelin Guide announcement event at the Kimmel Center.

    Michelin has expanded rapidly in the United States over the last several years. Besides the American South region — covering Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Tennessee — there are guides for Texas and Colorado. Atlanta’s 2023 guide has since been rolled into the South. The Florida guide, launched in 2022, now includes Miami, Orlando, and Tampa. Internationally, it recently arrived in Qatar, New Zealand, and the Philippines.

    (function() {
    var l2 = function() {
    new pym.Parent(‘michelin_philly’,
    ‘https://media.inquirer.com/storage/inquirer/projects/innovation/arcgis_iframe/michelin_philly.html’);
    };
    if (typeof(pym) === ‘undefined’) {
    var h = document.getElementsByTagName(‘head’)[0],
    s = document.createElement(‘script’);
    s.type = ‘text/javascript’;
    s.src = ‘https://pym.nprapps.org/pym.v1.min.js’;
    s.onload = l2;
    h.appendChild(s);
    } else {
    l2();
    }
    })();

    The Philadelphia Convention and Visitors Bureau cites an Ernst & Young study, commissioned by Michelin, showing the guide’s influence: 74% of travelers consider Michelin’s presence a decisive factor when choosing a destination; 76% say they would extend a trip to dine at a recommended restaurant; and 80% report being willing to pay more for what they view as a Michelin-level dining experience.

    For restaurants that receive distinctions, the impact is immediate as restaurants append “Michelin” to their social-media profiles.

    The energetic and anxious crowd of chefs and restauranteurs during the Michelin ceremony at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025.

    The reservations boost can be dramatic. In Charlotte, the 18-seat Counter sold about 900 reservations in the days after earning a star at the 2025 American South ceremony on Nov. 3, booking out through mid-February, chef-owner Sam Hart told Axios. About half the reservations came from out-of-town guests, including some international travelers.

    In many U.S. markets, the guide is explicitly part of tourism strategies: Axios has reported that the states included in the South edition are collectively paying Michelin $5 million over three years. PHLCVB has not disclosed how much it paid for Michelin’s partnership, which was announced in May.

    Chefs Jean Georges Vongerichten (left) and Thomas Keller posed with the Michelin Man ahead of Tuesday night’s ceremony at the Kimmel Center.

    Not only can reservations rise, so can menu prices at the winning restaurants. A widely cited 2018 analysis by Carly Shin of George Washington University found that a one-star rating increases menu prices by about 15%, two stars by 55%, and three stars by roughly 80%.

    Michelin says that 82% of chefs report increased revenue after receiving a distinction, 60% add new staff, and 58% say a nod boosts team motivation and morale — though anecdotally, some chefs acknowledge enormous pressure to maintain such a high level.

    Michelin’s arrival has inspired the PHLCVB Foundation to sponsor the Philabundance Community Kitchen program, a 16-week culinary vocational training and life-skills program for adults with low or no income, offering hands-on kitchen experience, ServSafe certification, and post-graduation employment support in the food service and restaurant industry. The foundation will connect the recognized chefs and restaurateurs to the PCK program.

  • Fishtown’s beloved Rocket Cat Cafe is not actually returning

    Fishtown’s beloved Rocket Cat Cafe is not actually returning

    Fishtown residents and business owners Shannon Leocata Figueras and Justice Figueras will sell no wine before its time. This much is clear because LeoFigs, their winery and restaurant, has been “coming soon” for months at Frankford and Susquehanna Avenues.

    Recently, the LeoFigs signs came down and a new one appeared in the window, showing a drawing of a cat wearing a space helmet while watching a rocket circling the moon.

    Could it be? the neighbors buzzed. Might Rocket Cat Cafe, the scruffy but beloved coffee shop/zine shop/hangout that closed five years ago nearby, be revived in the space?

    Justice and Shannon Figueras at LeoFigs, their future winery, restaurant, and cocktail bar at 2201 Frankford Ave. on Jan. 2, 2025.

    Nope. The sign was a ruse, Justice Figueras said. When anything opens in Fishtown, “everybody’s like, ‘Is it going to be another Rocket Cat?’ So we thought it was a little bit cheeky — maybe get us some awareness before we posted some jobs.”

    LeoFigs — whose opening is sorta-kinda-definitely set for mid-December, probably — is now hiring for all positions in the front and back of the house, including executive chef.

    The Rocket Cat sign, coming down soon, will also serve as LeoFigs’ first real post on its newly scrubbed Instagram account. “I basically erased all of our old [posts] because we went through a rebrand,” he said. “It was good timing for the Rocket Cat situation.” The original logo, designed by their children, has been subbed, as well.

    The original LeoFigs logo, designed by the owners’ children.
    LeoFigs’ new logo.

    “We definitely put the neighborhood in a tizzy,” said Shannon Figueras, an executive with Bacardi. “We didn’t realize everybody would get so excited, but we feel like we probably should say something.”

    The tactic worked perhaps too well.

    “We really can’t walk out on the sidewalk without somebody being like, ‘What’s going on?’” said Justice Figueras, a Jersey Shore-bred wine-business lifer, adding: “We didn’t think we could really offend anybody.”

    Since the spring, months after it was first mentioned, LeoFigs’ concept has evolved substantially. The couple expanded their winemaking operation, including a recent trip to the Finger Lakes, where they purchased about three tons of grapes.

    Up front, the design has shifted from a simple host counter to a full working counter that will become a showpiece for making fresh pasta. They said they’re doubling down on scratch pastas, breads, and even some pastries.

    Despite the café buzz the Rocket Cat ruse generated, LeoFigs will not be a morning destination. “I don’t think there’s a crowd for lunch — there are a million cafés and coffee shops over here,” Justice Figueras said.

    Instead, the plan is to open in the late afternoon and focus on dinner service, with “medium” plates inspired by a trip from Barcelona to Sicily. “We almost want to be more of a food hall for wine,” he said.

  • The best pies in the Philly area, from apple crumb and salted honey to chicken pot pie

    The best pies in the Philly area, from apple crumb and salted honey to chicken pot pie

    With Thanksgiving so close you can almost smell the stuffing, we are in prime pie time. Bakers and pastry chefs across the region are crimping cold, buttery crusts and cooking down aromatic fruit fillings and spiced custards for the coming wave of preorders. But pie need not be reserved for the holidays, as a number of spots on this list know. After the rounds of pumpkin and apple are put away, there’s space for crusty-creamy slices of salted honey, peach, key lime, strawberry rhubarb, ricotta, and carrot cake(!) pie all year long. Read on for The Inquirer food desk’s favorite pie purveyors. — Jenn Ladd

    The Bread Room

    High Street, Ellen Yin’s long-running bread and pastry powerhouse, always delivers on the baked goods front. Its expertly made pies are only offered once a year, and this holiday season, Yin’s recently opened bakery, the Bread Room, is taking over. The lineup includes two pies that could be straight out of the New York Times Cooking repertoire: a chai-chocolate pie with an airy mousse filling in a thin and crunchy chocolate crust, and a gorgeous lattice-topped thick-cut apple pie with a miso caramel-glazed crust. Preorder pies online by Sunday, Nov. 23, for pickup on Wednesday, Nov. 26. — Beatrice Forman

    Denise’s Delicacies

    This 33-year-old North Philly institution is best known for its fresh-made doughnuts and ultra-rich pound cake, but, boy, do they know how to make a pie. The bakery’s bestseller this time of year is the sweet potato pie, filled with a creamy, bronzed custard with a just-right level of sweetness in a buttery, crumbly crust. A close runner-up is Denise’s apple pie, which hits all the right notes: Its gooey, perfectly spiced interior is suffused with the slightest tang and pairs perfectly with a double-crust pastry shell that’s dense and almost fudgy. It’s a simple pie, expertly made — like if your mom baked it, but even better (love you, mom!). The family-owned bakery also makes peach, pecan, coconut custard, blueberry, and cherry pies. Call ahead or walk in and buy from the display case; 6- and 10-inch pies will be available up to the day before Thanksgiving (and year-round otherwise). — Jenn Ladd

    Downtime Bakery

    You can reliably score a slice of pie year-round at this year-old Mount Airy bakery, because owner Dayna Evans is a pie devotee: She and her team regularly whip up different variants each week, channeling whatever seasonal produce (and whims) inspire them, be it sour cherry, coconut custard, chocolate chess, or a pear-hazelnut number with a cornmeal crumb topping. What stays consistent is Evans’ signature spelt flour crusts, which give these pies nutty character and a little more bite than most — a theme that runs throughout Downtime’s offerings. Its preordered Thanksgiving pies are all sold out, but keep an eye on the bakery’s Instagram to see if one of the offerings (torched meringue-topped sweet potato, a quince-suffused gateau Basque, or a double-crust apple pie my 4-year old termed “a little spicy”) resurfaces. Pie slices roll out at 1 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. — Jenn Ladd

    Flakely

    Unlike its trademark gluten-free croissants and bagels, Flakely’s holiday pies can’t be found frozen in a pastry ATM. They only come fresh from behind the pink door at 220 Krams Ave. in Manayunk, where baker Lila Colello conjures a limited run of pies for Thanksgiving and the winter holidays. This season’s offerings start off strong with a pumpkin-maple tart piped with a ribbon of bruleed marshmallow fluff and a gooey bourbon-pecan version garnished with leaf-shaped shortbread cookies. Both are almost too pretty to eat. Preordering has been extended to Thursday, Nov. 20, for pickups between Nov. 24 and Nov. 26. If you miss this year’s go-round, you’ll have to wait for next year to get a bite of this apple (tarte tatin). — Beatrice Forman

    Flying Monkey

    This Reading Terminal Market stand is renowned for its whoopie pies and butter cake, but Flying Monkey’s apple crumb pie represents the platonic ideal of the holiday treat: warm and buttery, with a crumbly oat topping so delectable, I wish the bakery sold it separately. The pies here are relatively no-frills compared with some others on this map, but you can get them anytime of year, making them just as solid a treat for joyful do-nothing days as for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Customers can preorder Thanksgiving-specific apple crumb and pumpkin pies for Nov. 26 pickup from Flying Monkey’s new location in Chadds Ford, or call the Reading Terminal stand to schedule a pie pickup any day of the year (for key lime, s’mores, chocolate cream, and more) with 48 hours’ notice. — Beatrice Forman

    The Frosted Fox

    The deep-dish pies from this Germantown Avenue gem are so good, you’ll want a second slice moments after you finish the first one. The pies from this bakery, from a couple of Culinary Institute of America grads, look as good as they taste: Leaf-shaped pastry cutouts adorn the pumpkin pie, while their Thanksgiving fruit pies (apple crumble, pear-ginger) are finished with a heaping mound of crispy-crunchy-buttery crumble topping. Toasted pecan and sweet potato round out the holiday pie selection, all of which come in flaky, beautifully crimped all-butter crusts. Place an order by Friday, Nov. 21, at 5 p.m. for holiday pickups the following Tuesday and Wednesday. Owners Jennifer Low and Sean Williams try to keep extra pies (and cake and cookies) on hand for walk-ins, and they’ll be around in December, too. Frosted Fox offers pie year-round on weekends (preordering is recommended), with flavors changing seasonally; look for strawberry rhubarb, mixed berry, and key lime with meringue as the calendar turns. — Jenn Ladd

    Little Coco

    When Valentina Fortuna closed her beloved scratch bakery/cafe, Constellation Collective, in Collingswood in 2021, she figured she’d still make a few pies here and there for loyal customers. Fortuna’s pies were in such demand — particularly the salted honey — that her garage turned into a veritable black market bakery. In 2023, Fortuna opened Little Coco, a cozy cafe in a more low-key setting down the road from the original location, in Barrington, Camden County. Her fans followed. Fortuna serves a rotation of sliced pies weekly, with brown butter brownie and classic apple crumb among the favorites. Holiday preorders have begun, with pies including pecan, pumpkin squash, and the famed salted honey. — Jason Nark

    Night Kitchen Bakery

    Kids will clamor for the myriad beautiful cookies on display at this 44-year-old Chestnut Hill staple, but don’t let them distract you from the pie. Night Kitchen’s pumpkin pie, sporting sugared pie-crust leaves, is the bakery’s bestseller this time of year, but hot on its heels is apple crumb, packing a whopping five Granny Smiths per pie. There’s also pecan, chocolate pecan, sweet potato, double-crust apple, key lime, and sour cherry crumb (my favorite, which you can also order as an equally delicious tart, along with other year-round tarts like chocolate chess and blueberry almond). Pie is not just a Thanksgiving thing here; owner Amy Edelman says Night Kitchen packs its pastry shells with seasonal fillings — think strawberry rhubarb and mixed berry — throughout the year. — Jenn Ladd

    Penza’s Pies at the Red Barn

    Evelyn Penza, South Jersey’s pie queen, turned a family horse barn into a pie destination in Hammonton, aka the “blueberry capital of the world.” Blueberry pie is on the menu at the Red Barn Farm, Cafe, & Pie Shop, of course, but Hammonton also has a rich Italian heritage, so there’s plenty of ricotta pies on the menu, too. The 85-year-old Penza said pumpkin ricotta is among her best, along with the massive five-fruit pie, which looks like a work of art and must weigh close to 10 pounds. She said her pies are “cloaked in goodness.” The pie rush is already here, Penza said. To order ahead, call the shop. Penza’s doesn’t take credit cards, so bring lots of cash or use Venmo and, while you’re there, sit down for breakfast. — Jason Nark

    Ponzio’s Diner Bakery Bar

    What’s a diner without a slice of pie and hot cup of coffee? This Cherry Hill legend serves up hefty, crumbly slices of house-made pie for dessert all year long. (The diner’s chicken pot pie, served on Thursdays, is also a staple.) When Thanksgiving rolls around, whole pies are available for preorder. This year, choose between classic apple, Hammonton blueberry, sweet cherry, fresh pumpkin, coconut custard, and lemon meringue. For the fruit pies, you’ll have to make a tough call: double crust or cinnamon-butter crumb topping? Call before Monday, Nov. 24, to reserve. If there are any leftover pies (unlikely), Ponzio’s bakery stays open for takeout on Thanksgiving Day. — Hira Qureshi

    Second Daughter

    On the fourth floor of the Bok building, whiffs of freshly baked brown butter chocolate chip cookies and cosmic brownies lure customers to Second Daughter’s walk-up counter. You’ll likely glimpse chef-owner Rhonda Saltzman baking savory and sweet treats, including her stellar pies, which are available year-round. Saltzman uses Pennsylvania-sourced fruit and changes up her offerings with the seasons. This year’s Thanksgiving selection includes sour cherry pie topped with almond praline; apple pie with bourbon-spiced tart apples and an oatmeal crumb topping; a spiced pumpkin pie (or tart, with maple-brown sugar whipped cream); plus brownie tarts, salted caramel apple galettes, and apple and cherry-almond hand pies — all nestled in flaky pate brisee crusts. Order by Friday, Nov. 21, for pickup the following Wednesday and Thursday. Don’t have patience to wait for Thanksgiving? Saltzman has petite pies at the counter to indulge in beforehand. — Hira Qureshi

    Tartes

    Step up to the takeout window at Tartes in Old City and you’ll find a scene fit for a still life: ornately arranged miniature fruit tarts stacked atop cake stands, waiting to be bagged and boxed. Though this 25-year-old bakery also makes cookies and bite-size cakes, it’s best known for its namesake sweet, with a selection that rotates throughout the year. Thanksgiving brings an apple-raspberry variety dusted with cinnamon, plus bourbon pecan, pumpkin, and a pistachio frangipane topped with poached pears — all available in 9-inch pies as well as 2½- and 4-inch tarts. Orders are open until Nov. 24. My recommendation is to use the minis as a dessert appetizer of sorts for Friendsgivings and holiday parties. Guests will think you’re extra fancy. — Beatrice Forman

    Vernick Coffee

    For many Philadelphians, a visually stunning seasonal pie from this soaring second-floor breakfast/lunch/coffee oasis has become a holiday tradition. This year, Vernick’s pastry team is baking a gluten-free dirty chai pumpkin pie topped with quenelles of chocolate-coffee whipped cream; a dark chocolate-sea salt pecan pie with a fudgelike maple custard; a dulce de leche caramel apple pie made with local Pink Lady apples; and its classic carrot cake pie, with a salted ginger graham crust and perfectly piped kisses of cream cheese frosting (indeed this is a carrot cake stuffed into a dense and lovely pie crust). The carrot cake pie is available year-round; for one of the Thanksgiving pies, preorder via Vernick Coffee’s Tock page by Friday, Nov. 21, for pickup between Nov. 24 and 26. — Kiki Aranita

  • 10 kid-friendly restaurants for Philly Marathon weekend

    10 kid-friendly restaurants for Philly Marathon weekend

    Sure, you could pick up hot dogs, falafel, or shawarma from a street vendor while watching the Philadelphia Marathon. But here are 10 options for a family-friendly sit-down experience.

    The gyro platter from Moustaki.

    Moustaki

    Menu style: Greek street-food café with gyros, souvlaki, salads, loukoumades, pita platters.

    Kid-friendly notes: Counter-service; quick and easy food; typically calm; just off the Parkway near the start/finish corrals; there’s also a Center City location with counter service at 120 S. 15th St.

    📍 161 N. 21st St., Philadelphia, 📞 215-964-9151

    Italian Family Pizza

    Menu style: Oversized New York/Philly-style slices, whole pies, garlic knots, stromboli, and a fabulous meatball sandwich on a house-baked roll.

    Kid-friendly notes: Pizza is an easy win; quick service; plenty of room inside the dining rooms; outside along the Parkway for stroller parking and snacking while watching runners.

    📍 1701 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia, 📞 215-801-5198

    Pedestrians fill the 12th Street sidewalk outside Reading Terminal Market.

    Reading Terminal Market

    Menu style: 70-plus vendors selling something for everyone, even the picky eaters, sandwiches, pizza, barbecue, ice cream, doughnuts, dumplings.

    Kid-friendly notes: Perhaps the city’ most flexible spot for families: high chairs at several stalls, lots of grab-and-go, easy restrooms.

    📍 51 N. 12th St. (or 1136 Arch St.), Philadelphia, 📞 215-922-2317

    Chive and pork dumplings at Dim Sum Garden.

    Dim Sum Garden

    Menu style: Xiao long bao, dumplings, noodles, scallion pancakes, fried rice.

    Kid-friendly notes: Dumplings and noodles are easy for kids; drinks for adults; can be busy but the food arrives fast.

    📍 1024 Race St., Philadelphia, 📞 215-873-0258

    Bridget Foy’s

    Menu style: American comfort food, featuring burgers, chicken fingers, mac & cheese, salads, brunch dishes.

    Kid-friendly notes: One of the most reliably family-friendly restaurants in the city, with a kids’ menu; plenty of room for strollers; drinks for adults; outdoor seating when weather allows.

    📍 200 South St., Philadelphia, 📞 215-922-1813

    Marathon Grill

    Menu style: American comfort food, including chicken fingers, pancakes, burgers, mac & cheese, with vegetarian/gluten-free options.

    Kid-friendly notes: Open space, with indoor (and some outdoor) seating, a selection of adult drinks, and a “neighborhood joint” feel.

    📍 121 S. 16th St., Philadelphia, 📞 215-569-3278

    Bulletin Bar at Gather Food Hall.

    Gather Food Hall

    Menu style: Food hall with an interesting mix of Peruvian, Mexican, Southeast Asian, and Indian food, sandwiches, burgers, salads, coffee, pastries, and a Federal Donuts location.

    Kid-friendly notes: High-ceilinged, spacious, good bathrooms; fast service — extremely easy for families and large groups; steps from the Walnut Street bridge spectator zone and across from 30th Street Station. There’s a bar, too.

    📍 3025 Market St. (Bulletin Building at Drexel), Philadelphia

    In Riva

    Menu style: Neapolitan-style pizza, pastas, shareable antipasti, wood-fired dishes.

    Kid-friendly notes: Pizza and pasta are always kid wins; roomy layout; easy access relative to Center City; its East Falls location is right next to the Kelly/Ridge spectator stretch.

    📍 4116 Ridge Ave., Philadelphia, 📞 215-438-4848

    The Couch Tomato Café (aka The Tomato Shack)

    Menu style: Pizzas, salads, sandwiches; upstairs bistro has more plated entrées.

    Kid-friendly notes: One of the most kid-friendly restaurants in Manayunk — booster seats and high chairs; pizza by the slice; lots of families on weekends; right on the marathon’s Manayunk out-and-back.

    📍 102 Rector St., Philadelphia, 📞 215-483-2233

    The Landing Kitchen is an all-day cafe at the riverside redevelopment of the Pencoyd Ironworks.

    The Landing Kitchen

    Menu style: Breakfast sandwiches, pastries, burgers, grain bowls, rotisserie chicken, smoothies.

    Kid-friendly notes: Huge outdoor space in Bala Cynwyd overlooking the river (across from Manayunk); very stroller-friendly; plenty of room for kids to move around; great for families who want a calmer scene than Main Street.

    📍 617 Righters Ferry Rd., Bala Cynwyd, 📞 484-434-8765

  • At the new Huda Burger in Fishtown, the secret ingredient is the buns

    At the new Huda Burger in Fishtown, the secret ingredient is the buns

    One of the keys to the sandwiches at Huda — chef Yehuda Sichel’s acclaimed shop in Rittenhouse — is the cloudlike, house-baked milk bread.

    At Huda Burger — opening Nov. 19 near Suraya and Palmer Park in Fishtown — Sichel is also building his burgers and chicken sandwiches on the luxurious, mildly sweet buns inspired by Japanese shokupan.

    In fact, he built the entire place around them. “This kitchen is like half bakery, half prep kitchen just for the buns,” Sichel said. The buns at Huda Burger will be seeded, unlike those at the original shop, which serves one of The Inquirer’s favorite smash burgers — the Mott, topped with buttermilk ranch, pickled peppers, pepper Jack brie, and hot honey.

    Huda Burger’s setup at 1602 Frankford Ave.

    Sichel is banking on the buns to separate him from the other burger makers. (New York’s 7th Street Burger has a location opening this winter down the street, further adding to the pressure.)

    “Being in a saturated market really forces you to get better, and there’s nothing I like more than some competition,” said Sichel. Besides the bread, everything else is being made in-house, including pickles and sauces, and every item is prepared to order — even the chicken is butchered in the back.

    Besides three kinds of crispy chicken sandwiches (coated in rice flour, cornstarch, Wondra flour, and what Sichel describes as “a whole bunch of spices”), Huda Burger’s menu includes a rotating line of five or six smash burgers. There’s a classic cheeseburger, a create-your-own option, a vegetarian burger, a pastrami fried onion burger (a cross between a pastrami burger and an Oklahoma-style smash burger), and a bread-free cheeseburger salad. The menu also includes curly fries, pickles, and shakes made with soft serve from 1-900-Ice-Cream.

    Crispy chicken sandwich at Huda Burger, 1603 Frankford Ave.

    His partner is Dan Berkowitz, the chief executive and co-founder of 100x Hospitality, an event production company specializing in immersive and travel experiences.

    The space, designed by Lance Saunders, includes a half dozen indoor counter seats and a few outdoor tables in season.

    Sichel, who grew up in Elkins Park, started in the restaurant business at age 15, making sandwiches at a kosher deli in Baltimore. After culinary school in Israel, he moved home to work for chefs Georges Perrier at Brasserie Perrier and Daniel Stern at Rae, followed by a stint with chef Neal Fraser at Grace in Los Angeles.

    Cheeseburger salad at Huda Burger, 1603 Frankford Ave.

    In 2010, he joined Steven Cook and Michael Solomonov at Zahav. He rose through the ranks — from line cook to pastry to sous chef — and played a major role in the opening of Citron & Rose (2012) in Lower Merion and Abe Fisher (2014) in Rittenhouse. Abe Fisher was named a Best New Restaurant by Travel & Leisure, and Sichel was named to Zagat’s 30 Under 30 Rock Stars Redefining the Industry. He left CookNSolo in 2020, opening Huda at 32 S. 18th St., that summer amid the pandemic.

    Huda Burger, 1603 Frankford Ave. Hours: 11 a.m. till 9 p.m. daily, but there are plans to extend.

  • Percy rebrands to all-day diner after mixed reviews

    Percy rebrands to all-day diner after mixed reviews

    Breakfast for dinner? Groundbreaking, at least in Philly.

    Just six months after opening, Percy — the swanky cafe-brunch-listening lounge-dinner joint hybrid from the team behind Forín — is now a permanent all-day diner, according to co-owner and general manager Seth Kligerman.

    The transition became official Thursday when the restaurant revealed a new (and cheaper) menu on Instagram that includes a 12-item all-day menu of revamped diner classics served from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., plus pared-down lists of breakfast and dinner-only options.

    The change embraces Percy’s “true identity,” Kligerman said, and comes after a spate of mixed reviews that called out how the restaurant’s brunch program outshone a dinner menu of $30-plus entrees that included a Thai curry, a lamb shank, and a Cooper Sharp-topped burger.

    Percy opened under the El at 1700 N. Front St. in May as the ground-floor anchor to Urby, a 200-unit luxury apartment complex. The restaurant earned fans and haters fast: Percy’s ¾-pound ricotta pancakes and babka French toast found an immediate following in Fishtown’s crowded brunch scene. And yet, Philly Mag food critic Jason Sheehan bestowed the title of “Philly’s most disappointing new restaurant” upon Percy in September, arguing the restaurant was “all vibe, with little else worth saying.”

    The reviews came with a silver lining, according to Kligerman. Percy was able to raise $4,000 for the Fishtown Community Library through a limited-run sale of shirts screen-printed with Sheehan’s headline.

    Plus, a bit of constructive criticism didn’t hurt.

    “I’m really grateful that we were able to spin something negative into something so positive,” Kligerman said. “We don’t have the runway that [larger restaurateurs] have, where they can collect a lot of data and open with a perfect concept … Now that we have the data from reviews, from the public, from our sales reports, we get to hit our stride.”

    Percy’s all-day menu leans heavily on what worked from its brunch. The cinnamon-crusted ricotta pancakes are still there, but customers can now order them until 9 p.m. along with other favorites such as the espresso-dulce de leche beignets, a roast pork croque monsieur, and a new mortadella club sandwich smeared with burrata and pistachio pesto.

    The biggest changes came for the breakfast and dinner menus, which will run from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. respectively. Breakfast’s star is the $11 Philly Grand Slam, a play on the standard diner breakfast with two eggs and home fries plus bacon, duck sausage, and a ricotta pancake for an additional charge.

    The $11 Philly Grand Slam from Percy has two eggs, toast, and homefries, with bacon, duck sausage, or a ricotta pancake for an additional charge.

    Dinner, too, got a makeover, swapping the Thai curry and lamb shank for a fried chicken Reuben and an elevated meatloaf served with a red wine jus, whipped potatoes, and purple cauliflower.

    The new menu nods to Tuckerton, N.J’s Dynasty Diner, where South Jersey-bred Kligerman grew up splitting disco fries and pancakes with his friends until their parents chastised them for running up against curfew. It also fills a hole in Philly’s breakfast-for-dinner scene, as the city’s diners continue to dwindle, with owners putting them up for sale or preparing for demolition.

    “When I think about Dynasty, I get that warm family feeling,” said Kligerman, 37, who now lives in Fishtown. “I want Percy to offer that.”

    The $26 pork cheek bourguignon at Percy, now served TV-dinner style on three compartment trays as part of the restaurant’s diner rebrand.

    TV dinner trays and cheap(er) eats

    Percy’s revamp also comes with a significant decrease in prices.

    Initially, all but the burger on Percy’s dinner menu cost between $30 and $40 per entree. Now the entire menu — save for the $31 half chicken with polenta — clocks in below $28. Most dishes had $4 to $6 shaved off, Kligerman said. The croque monsieur, for example, dropped from $24 to $17, while the burger had $3 knocked off, to now sit at $18.

    “We wanted to make sure the pricing allowed people to come back multiple times a week. And I think our opening pricing … definitely positioned us to be that one-day-a-week or special occasion-type restaurant,” said Kligerman. “Good diners are for everyone.”

    The plate-sized ricotta pancakes from Percy, which will now be available from 9 a.m. – 9 p.m. as the restaurant transitions to an all-day diner.

    Good diners also have a look, he said: hard plastic cups that get constant refills, salt and pepper shakers on the table, and stacks of paper napkins. All of those elements have now been wrapped into Percy’s mid-century modern decor.

    Percy’s plating also reflects the change. All five dishes on the dinner menu will be served TV-dinner style, in compartmentalized trays with spaces for the protein, side, and a single bread roll.

    “It’s kind of playful,” Kligerman said. ”Everything is.”

    Percy, 1700 N. Front St., 215-975-0020, percyphl.com. Hours: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday; 9 a.m. to midnight Thursday to Saturday, and 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

  • A popular cheesesteak name turns up at a landmark location in South Jersey, and Facebook gets spicy

    A popular cheesesteak name turns up at a landmark location in South Jersey, and Facebook gets spicy

    Max’s Seafood Cafe, which brought lofty dining ambitions to down-to-earth Gloucester City, has changed hands after a quarter-century.

    The new owners — Mike and Barb Williams, who previously ran the three Pudge’s sandwich shops still operating in the Pennsylvania suburbs, and entrepreneur Chris Widell — plan to open Tuesday as Pudge’s Pub. It will sport a far more accessible menu of steaks, hoagies, and bar food, as well as some of Max’s bestsellers, such as steamed clams, clams casino, and mussels in three sauces. A former Max’s chef is on board, as is the former bar manager.

    Pudge’s Pub’s Facebook page.

    But while change is inevitable, especially in the restaurant world, last week’s announcement failed to impress the Facebook crowd. No sooner had the partners swapped out Max’s logo for a jaunty sketch of a mustachioed Pudge on the profile page than the comments flew on the page of the news site 42 Freeway, based on its article about the transaction:

    “Oh, my God! They’re not using ‘Max’s’ anymore!” “I’m guessing a joke?” “Change an iconic name?” “Such a classy-looking restaurant for a cartoon character logo and basically takeout food menu.” “Is this AI pulling [a] prank?”

    The partners expressed frustration as moderator Mark Matthews tried to reason with the commenters. Marilyn Johnson, moderator of the South Jersey Food Scene page, did the same on her post.

    “Give us a chance,” an exasperated Mike Williams told The Inquirer on Friday. Economic reality drove the decision to rebrand as Pudge’s. Max’s hasn’t made a profit in at least three years and foot traffic was low, Williams said.

    Many commenters conceded that they hadn’t visited Max’s in a long time. “I don’t want to say we’re saving it, but we want to resurrect a place where all walks of life can come and have fun,” Williams said.

    Pudge’s Pub co-owners Mike and Barbara Williams and their son Preston in the bar, formerly Max’s Seafood Cafe in Gloucester City.

    They are keeping the neon Max’s Cafe sign, which has cast a glow over the intersection of Hudson and Burlington Streets for decades. They applied a fresh coat of paint to the classic barroom, and are keeping the ornate wood-and-mirror bar, circa 1912, as it was.

    The draft-beer list, which included high-brow specialties like Chimay, has been simplified to more standard offerings like Miller Lite, Stella, and Yards. (The fancier beers will be available in bottles.) Williams said they plan to host special events in the parking lot and are adding four TVs inside.

    Mike Williams said he had a butcher prepare a custom cut of beef for the cheesesteaks. They’ll use rolls from Liscio’s, also a South Jersey business, since their previous supplier, Conshohocken Italian Bakery, closed last year.

    Facebook comments opposed to the changeover at Max’s Seafood Cafe in Gloucester City.

    Even the bar’s new focus on cheesesteaks sparked outrage from commenters who lamented that greater Gloucester was on the brink of Whiz overload. Two other shops are due to open soon just down the street: a barroom from Lillo’s (of Hainesport fame) at the former Thomas Murphy’s Pub, and Irishtown Steaks, from a former head cook at the well-regarded Donkey’s Place a few minutes away in Camden. In nearby West Collingswood Heights, Danny DiGiampietro of Angelo’s Pizzeria is planning to open a new eatery.

    Pudge’s and Max’s histories

    It’s not as if the Williamses are new to the game. The Pudge’s project is a return to their family’s roots. Pudge’s traces its history to Frank’s, the hoagie shop that a 21-year-old Frank Carbone opened at Wister Street and Chew Avenue in Germantown, near what was then La Salle College, after he got out of the service in the late 1950s.

    Carbone renamed it Pudge’s — his childhood nickname — when he moved it to Whitpain Shopping Center in Blue Bell, Montgomery County, in 1972. His daughter, Barbara, and her husband, Mike Williams, took over Pudge’s after Carbone’s death in 2000. The Williamses opened locations in the Lansdale and Pottstown areas before selling their last location in October 2024; all three operate under the new owners, and Williams said he has rights to the name.

    The Gloucester City bar opened in 1890 as a shoe store and became Leisinger’s Saloon in 1912, when German immigrant Joseph Fred Leisinger installed the bar. After Leisinger’s death in 1937, another German immigrant, Max Waterstradt, bought the business and named it Max’s Cafe, also a neighborhood taproom. By the late 1970s, Max’s had evolved into Max’s Seafood Cafe, known for simply prepared seafood. Time and deferred maintenance caught up with the building, and Max’s went dark in 1998.

    In 2001, Tom Monahan — a partner in the nearby Chubby’s restaurant — bought Max’s, restored it, and reopened it with a premium menu whose entrees in its later years were priced in the high $30s. Monahan, who operated Max’s until last week’s sale, did not reply to a message seeking clarity on his restaurant’s gift certificates. Mike Williams and Widell said they would not honor them at Pudge’s.

    By the weekend, as the Facebook crowd had moved on to a new tempest (was a new bank planned for Washington Township really necessary?), the partners were applying their final touches to the pub.

    Asked how Pudge’s would set itself apart from other local hangouts, Mike Williams replied that an owner — he, his wife, or son Preston — would be on premises from opening till closing daily: “That’s the only way for quality control, and just being friendly — that is an art that is lost these days.”

    Pudge’s Pub, 34 N. Burlington St., Gloucester City, N.J. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 8 p.m. Sunday. Hours will be extended on select game days.

  • What will Michelin mean for the Philly restaurant scene?

    What will Michelin mean for the Philly restaurant scene?

    Dining rooms in Philly are abuzz with talk of Michelin’s impending arrival in Philadelphia — whose stars (or lack thereof) are set to be announced on Tuesday.

    On a recent night, while celebrating my wedding anniversary at the elegant Friday Saturday Sunday, diners at tables on either side of mine discussed the potential of the restaurant winning a star. That same week, at the hushed, luxe soapstone counter at Provenance, where spotlights shine precisely upon the parade of twenty-some courses (which costs $300 inclusive of tax and service charge, but not beverages) placed in front of diners, Michelin was brought up by every single guest to chef Nich Bazik as he made his rounds. “I’ve been to a lot of Michelin-starred places and they’ve been mediocre. But I think you’re going to get one,” I overheard one diner telling Bazik.

    Anticipation is high. But what would getting Michelin recognition actually mean to Philadelphia restaurants? In at least one case, it might translate to survival. For the rest of the city, the guide’s arrival is both foreboding and exciting.

    The stakes

    The experience that Bazik concocts at Provenance is Michelin bait: As I was being seated, my purse is given its own stool. Each time I get up to go to the restroom, my napkin has been replaced with a fresh, clean, starched, and folded one on a wooden tray. I count as many staff members as diners seated around the counter. My grenache noir is served in an impossibly delicate German Spiegelau glass. A single glass can cost $40, far more than the $15 wine it contains. These are the touches Michelin inspectors — or at least, diners who dine frequently at Michelin-starred restaurants — pay attention to.

    “A lot of folks dining here liken us to Michelin-starred restaurants in New York and around the world,” said Bazik in a phone conversation after my meal.

    “There’s a lot of weight for me in that outcome. We’re confident in the products that we bring in and our execution, but my anxiety lies with people’s expectations,” he said.

    For Bazik, the expectation that his restaurant will attain a star is high, and more than any of the other Philly restaurants speculated about in recent Michelin banter, Provenance needs a star to keep operating. Unlike its fellow contenders — Royal Sushi & Izakaya, Friday Saturday Sunday, Kalaya, and Vetri Cucina, to name some likely star recipients — the year-old restaurant hasn’t received international attention nor garnered any major awards.

    Royal, Kalaya, and Friday Saturday Sunday made appearances on the inaugural North America 50 Best list, an institution often considered a bellwether of future Michelin recognition, much the way Hollywood insiders consider the Screen Actors Guild Awards a tip as to who might ultimately take home an Oscar. Provenance’s recent appearance on Bon Appétit’s 20 best restaurants of 2025 list was exciting for Bazik, but didn’t contribute to any discernible increase in reservations.

    Provenance chef-owner Nicholas Bazik greets guest in the Headhouse Square restaurant on Oct. 17, 2024.

    On Nov. 18, Michelin will release its 2025 Northeast Cities edition, covering dining in Chicago, New York City, Washington, D.C., and for the first time, Boston and Philadelphia. Over the last two years, the Michelin Guide has expanded rapidly in the United States, growing to include a new region of the South (Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Tennessee) and the states of Texas and Colorado. Atlanta’s guide was introduced in 2023, but has since been rolled into the South’s edition. The Florida guide, introduced in 2022, has expanded to include a greater Miami area, Orlando, and Tampa. Internationally, the guide arrived in Qatar, New Zealand, and the Philippines in the last year.

    Anonymous inspectors were dispatched to Philly’s restaurants many months ago. About a month ago, those selected for either stars, a Bib Gourmand designation (for restaurants that have a “simpler style of cooking” and “leave you with a sense of satisfaction, at having eaten so well as such a reasonable price”), or to be listed in the guide without either recognition received a short survey from Michelin via email to confirm details like how they take reservations and their address.

    Invites to the ceremony went out last week to chefs and restaurateurs, some who will appear in this new guide and some who won’t. Intentionally or not, Michelin seems to toy with the hopes and expectations of chefs, inviting a number of attendees who will walk away empty-handed or, in some cases, having lost a star.

    The communication between Michelin and restaurants is famously terse and, for some included the guide’s newer editions, highly unexpected. When the Philippines’ first-ever Michelin stars were announced on Oct. 30, one restaurateur did not appear to receive his plaque because he had believed the emails to be spam.

    The Michelin Guide’s arrival has also been rejected, as is case in Australia, where Michelin reportedly asked for $17.33 million over five years from Tourism Australia. The bid was rejected and Australia’s restaurants were passed over while the guide landed in New Zealand, to varying fanfare.

    The interior of Friday Saturday Sunday.

    Michelin math

    As deserving as the Philly food scene is on the international stage, the reality is that Michelin attention is coming because the Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau invested in expanding the guide’s coverage here. If Provenance were located in Pittsburgh, Bazik would have to wait until the city’s tourism board was willing to pay for its restaurants to be considered by inspectors.

    The PCVB, a private agency, has declined to disclose the terms of its contract with Michelin. Other cities have paid significant sums to be part of the Michelin process. Atlanta’s visitors bureau, for example, entered into a $300,000-a-year three-year contract with Michelin in 2023. Florida’s guide was backed by more than $1.5 million in funds from state and city tourism budgets.

    Restaurants may stand to benefit financially from Michelin recognition. In the documentary Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars, produced by Gordon Ramsay and heavily promoted by Michelin itself, host Jesse Burgess says, “They say with one Michelin star you get 20% more business. With two Michelin stars, you’re going to see about 40% more, three Michelin stars, double — 100% more business.” These numbers were corroborated by Eater in 2010.

    But some restaurants have also reported having a Michelin star can cost them money. An initial bump can be followed by a slump, according to a study in the Strategic Management Journal: “Consequences of Michelin stars were not all necessarily favorable. Restaurateurs also emphasized how relationships with employees, landlords, and suppliers became more strained as these exchange partners sought to bargain for more value.”

    The downsides

    Michelin-starred restaurants may struggle to maintain diners’ expectations, which have been compounded by shows like The Bear and examples set forth by empire-building restaurateurs like Will Guidara, also the author of Unreasonable Hospitality.

    “Traditional gestures of hospitality will not cut it. Sending an extra appetizer to a table seems quaint, and just forget about the ubiquitous candle in the dessert,” wrote restaurateur John Winterman, the owner of one-starred Francie in Brooklyn, in a recent article in Food & Wine. Michelin-caliber restaurants, in addition to everything else they’re trying to keep up with, are now dealing with diners used to extraordinary gestures.

    Guests fill the dining room at Kalaya in Fishtown as restaurant staff weave through service on Aug. 22, 2024.

    “Someone complained once because we didn’t have purse stools. And why not? We have a Michelin star, so we should have purse stools,” Winterman told me in a phone conversation.

    Michelin expectations can also have a downside for diners: Who wants to travel thousands of miles to eat the same food?

    More and more has been written about the creeping sameness that haunts Michelin-caliber restaurants around the globe. As they strive for stars, restaurants start to resemble one another in both hospitality and food. In his 2024 review of New York City’s one-starred Noksu, the New York Times’ former critic Pete Wells pondered, “There are restaurants like this in almost every major city now, imitation pearls on a string that circles the world. Once the door closes, you could be anywhere, or nowhere. How did chefs who prize both originality and a sense of place decide that the most appropriate backdrop for their food would be copycat rooms done in a blank-faced global style?”

    Even as Philly gears up for more international visitors and attention for the World Cup and America’s 250th anniversary, it’s likely that a (much-desired) influx of food tourists will all try to go to the same places thanks to Michelin. Many already are.

    “We’ve booked Friday Saturday Sunday and Kalaya, where else should we go?” a Canadian friend texted me last week. He was looking for the usual suspects, the must-eats, notches on his belt. A rising tide may not lift all ships, but rather concentrate the money and attention on a select few.

    Morale boost

    “Awards are always superspecial. Obviously we love getting recognized,” said Marc Vetri in a phone interview. “But in the end, we are not here to win awards. We’re here to do what we love. Awards are never the end goal.”

    Open for over a quarter of a century, Vetri doesn’t need a Michelin star the way Provenance does. Vetri Cucina already attracts well-heeled international visitors, happy to open their wallets for the extraordinary pastas and meats that the kitchen turns out. “If you’re around that long, folks are going to hear about you. Everyone knows about us. Our dining room every night has a variety of area codes from local to the West Coast, to European numbers, phone numbers from all over the world,” said Vetri.

    Getting a Michelin star won’t change how he operates either. “This is my life, maybe a lot of chefs are thinking about this differently — sticking things on their menu specifically for Michelin. But once you stray from who you are, you’ve lost who you are. We’re always evolving. We’re a new restaurant every year. We evolve with my life experiences,” he said. “And we won’t raise our prices, like in a war.”

    Marc Vetri makes pasta at Vetri Cucina.

    Vetri is excited for Philly to have more recognition on the world culinary stage. “It’ll bring more Europeans and worldly folks to Philly,” he said.

    Nich Bazik has wanted his own restaurant since the age of 20 and has never worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant. If Provenance attains a star, his own will be the first that he has cooked in. This is a rarity. Chefs at his level typically train at Michelin-starred restaurants in many cities, gaining experience from global kitchens and hobnobbing with other chefs with Michelin stars in their eyes. Bazik’s cooking is entirely homegrown, nurtured by experiences working at James with Jim Burke and at Russett with Andrew Wood.

    “I am from Philadelphia. This is my home,” Bazik said. “My entire paid tenure of being a cook has been in Philadelphia and by design. I didn’t see the benefit of going elsewhere.”

    Despite Bazik’s anxiety, “Michelin isn’t going to change how we operate. I work from 9:30 a.m. to midnight every day. I’d be doing that whether Michelin was coming or not.”

    More business?

    The reservation system OpenTable regularly posts its top 10 most-booked restaurants in cities. In their latest Philadelphia update, on Nov. 5, that list included Borromini, Parc, the Love, Talula’s Garden, the Dandelion, and El Vez, and none of the other restaurants mentioned in this article. (Resy, which Kalaya and Royal Sushi use, does not put out a comparable, data-driven list).

    This is a reminder that the restaurants contending for a Michelin star exist in a rarefied space. As much as the guide’s representatives try to downplay their focus on fine dining, the vast majority of Michelin hopefuls do charge a lot of money. On a purely economic basis, they aren’t for everyone.

    Conversely, OpenTable’s top 10 is a reflection of where people are really going out to eat in Philadelphia and, of course, the restaurants large enough to accommodate them — six of 10 of those places are owned by Stephen Starr (an altogether different star than what we’re talking about). At the end of the day, actual diners mean more to the bottom line and longevity of a restaurant than stars. But they probably can’t hurt.

  • Is Angelo’s overrated? Their fast expansion puts the cheesesteak king in peril

    Is Angelo’s overrated? Their fast expansion puts the cheesesteak king in peril

    When Angelo’s Pizzeria opened in South Philly six years ago, it didn’t just elevate the city’s cheesesteak standards — it reshaped them in its own image. Gone were the stale rolls, shredded meat, and molten flows of watery Whiz.

    Under the purview of owner Danny DiGiampietro, Angelo’s introduced crusty, house-baked rolls. DiGiampietro grilled seasoned rib eye right up to the chewy line without crossing it, merging Cooper Sharp and beef at the optimum melting point. A new school of cheesesteak emerged.

    Since 2019, reviews from the likes of Barstool’s Dave Portnoy and Somebody Feed Phil’s Phil Rosenthal have spread word of the shop’s high-quality operation nationwide, abetted by hype from actor Bradley Cooper and a bevy of media outlets (this one included). Its renown has prompted wave after wave of customers to show up to the corner of Ninth and Fitzwater five days a week. The line there has become a raucous scene, with cheesesteak hunters happy to wait more than an hour just to place an order and wait another 20- or 40-plus minutes for the food.

    Whiz steak from Angelo’s Pizzeria at 736 S. Ninth St.,

    The solution to the seemingly bottomless demand for DiGiampietro’s steaks has been to grow the supply: His empire now extends, or soon will, to Conshohocken, South Jersey, Delaware, UberEats, Reading Terminal Market, and New York City.

    But DiGiampietro, a known perfectionist, can’t be everywhere at once.

    A visit to the Terminal-based Uncle Gus’ spinoff (a partnership with Joe Nicolosi of DiNic’s Roast Pork and Dave Braunstein of Pearl’s Oyster Bar) provided an uneven experience this past spring, when I sampled a disappointing set of sandwiches. I expected a long-rolled reminder of life’s redeeming qualities, and instead got … something else. While the rolls were expertly baked, they were both filled with a wad of dry beef strings glued together with gobs of stubborn fat.

    It got me wondering if Angelo’s had grown too fast, too soon, and too far to maintain the standard of cheesesteak excellence that they set for the rest of the city.

    Has demand decreased Angelo’s quality?

    On an April trip to Angelo’s Ninth Street location, I had a similarly subpar encounter. The rib eye in the cheesesteak was haphazardly chopped and extremely dry. There was more salt in the Whiz than on the meat. The signature crusty bread — usually up to handling the mound of toppings — was coming apart under the weight of the poorly cooked beef.

    I ordered multiple sandwiches, with various cheeses and sauce combinations, and the best bite I had on that visit was the pizza steak, with the blend of meat, sauce, and cheese melding into what can only be described as a cheesesteak-meatball sub hybrid. The sauce smoothed over the dryness of the meat and balanced it out with a thick twist of mozzarella.

    Beef from an Angelo’s cheesesteak.

    I went back to try again in May. Maybe it was just an off day? But I was still disappointed. The major issue this time was the house-baked roll. Famed for its crustiness, which everyone is copying, this bread was uncharacteristically underbaked. It got soggy — fast. It buckled under the weight of overstuffed meat, which was once again on the drier side. (The Cooper Sharp, however, was perfectly melted into the meat this time.)

    When I told DiGiampietro about these experiences recently, he said, “It breaks my heart.”

    DiGiampietro’s original shop, which he opened in Haddonfield in 2013, won regional recognition, but its cult following didn’t hold a spatula to the national rep Angelo’s claims today. Before moving to the Ninth Street location in 2019, he said, he “never, in my wildest dreams, expected any of this.”

    “Have some things gotten through the cracks here and there? They sure have,” he said. “And they drive me crazy at night.”

    What makes a good cheesesteak?

    According to the Philly-based “fatty foods biographer” Carolyn Wyman, who authored The Great Philly Cheesesteak Book in 2009, an exceptional steak relies on four core principles: a bakery-fresh roll, gooey cheese that doesn’t overwhelm the taste or soak the sandwich into submission, onions that aren’t caramelized into oblivion, and beef that actually tastes like beef and not just a pile of gristle.

    It has to be more than a working-class sandwich. It has to be a symphony. It should coalesce into one glorious flavor, with each component equally balanced. One component should not be used to balance out weakness in another.

    I figure the Angelo’s problem results from the pressures of serving a daily deluge of customers.

    When I worked at a cheesesteak shop in college, the major pain points came with getting the meat off the grill. DiGiampietro knows well the perils of the flat-top.

    “My biggest pet peeve is too much meat on the grill,” he conceded, “because now you’re not frying. You’re steaming it. And it’s a completely different steak.”

    He tells his staff all the time: “People are going to wait. Make it worth their f’ing wait,” he said.

    And let’s be fair to the cooks: That line can be intimidating.

    “A lot of times my guys get too nervous,” he said, “and they see those tickets coming in, and they want to try and load up the grill, but there’s only so much we can do and how fast we can do it the right way.”

    Too much, too fast

    I have a ton of respect for DiGiampietro, for everything he’s built and for his dedication to his craft. He’s only human.

    “It’s daunting,” he said. “I see a therapist, believe it or not. Just the pressure of the expectations can sometimes be very overwhelming.”

    Danny DiGiampietro, owner of Angelo’s Pizzeria, at Angelo’s Baking Co. in Conshohocken.

    When word about Angelo’s got out in 2019, and endless lines continued to form, he got overwhelmed.

    “I thought we’d be serving sandwiches and pizza to the neighborhood,” he said. “I did not see this.”

    The Uber expansion in particular was a little harder than he anticipated, he said. “It’s been a challenge,” he said. “I am getting it under control.”

    But if someone has a bad experience, he said he’ll own up to it and offer ways to make it right.

    “We’re trying our best,” he said. “We’re not Michelin stars here. It’s pizza, cheesesteaks, and making bread. But we do it the best we can and as honestly as we can.”

    I stopped by Angelo’s yesterday to see how things were going.

    I picked up a few sandwiches, and there was a lot of good: The steaks weren’t overstuffed, and the rolls were ideally crusty on the outside and buttery soft on the inside. But the beef between the two sandwiches varied in how well it was cooked, and the ratio of cheese to meat was inconsistent.

    The longer I ate one with Whiz the worse it became; the meat was a touch too tough. On the other hand, the cheesesteak with Cooper Sharp increasingly won me over with every bite — it lived up to the hype, and it’s exactly what people are waiting for. It was the epitome of the new-school cheesesteak Angelo’s made famous.

    So it wasn’t a redemptive visit, per se, but it does show that Angelo’s has plenty of fight left in its grill. They’re still dedicated to getting it right. It’s just a matter of execution.

    This last visit helped solidify my belief that DiGiampietro will get things back on track. He set his own standard, and Angelo’s made steaks in Philly better. A few missteps won’t change that.

    Bells and birds help tell the city’s story, but it’s a sandwich that helps explain Philadelphians. How we evolved from farmers in the cradle of liberty to DoorDashers in a melting pot of orange whiz is informed and defined by the cheesesteak. Raising the Steaks is a weeklyish chronicle of this long-rolled reminder of life’s redeeming qualities.

  • The new Borough in Downingtown is a sports bar, a pizzeria, a sushi bar, and a music venue all in one

    The new Borough in Downingtown is a sports bar, a pizzeria, a sushi bar, and a music venue all in one

    When Keith Critchley and JT O’Brien were looking to buy a restaurant last year, they toured the dining room and kitchen of Georgio’s in downtown Downingtown, which Georgio Malle was selling after more than 30 years.

    “Keith and I went to lunch and I said, ‘There’s no way we’re buying this for what he wants. It’s not that big,’” O’Brien said. They went back to negotiate, he said, Malle told them flatly, “My price is my price.”

    Crispy chicken sandwich on a doughnut at the Borough in Downingtown.

    It quickly became evident that Critchley and O’Brien had not seen the upstairs of the rambling building on Lancaster Avenue. “When I saw the upstairs, I thought, ‘Now I can start thinking of different ideas and concepts that we can do,’” O’Brien said.

    They seem to be throwing everything at the Borough, which began opening in phases in recent weeks. There is a 35-seat sports bar/restaurant with 40 TVs, 20 taps, and a full cocktail menu on the ground floor, connected to a large patio through garage doors. Upstairs, there’s a 20-seat bar, a six-seat sushi bar, and a venue hosting live music. Programming such as open-mic nights, karaoke, trivia nights, and comedy shows will ramp up in November. Big brunches — think mimosa towers and full entertainment — will start after Thanksgiving.

    Critchley and O’Brien retained pizzaiolo Ptah Akai to set up the pizza kitchen.

    Five years ago during the pandemic, the Swarthmore-born Akai noticed that the successful restaurants were offering pizza — “and not because they were making great pizza.”

    Consultant Ptah Akai at the Borough in Downingtown.

    Akai began teaching himself, using YouTube and setting up an oven in his backyard. By day, Akai, 33, works as an installer for Toast, the restaurant point-of-sale company. He quickly became popular among his neighbors. “It brings people together,” he said. “You can go anywhere in the world and make pizza and probably make a friend.”

    A lifelong vegan, Akai wanted to make pizza he could eat himself, and the challenge of making tasty nondairy pizza became motivation. When he learned that Critchley and O’Brien were opening, he offered to get them started. (Georgio’s had a fairly extensive pizza kitchen, including a large mixer.)

    Forager pizza at the Borough in Downingtown.

    Akai’s pies are beautifully puffy-crusted, sort of neo-Neapolitan, with zero flop and a light char. The sliced garlic gave a subtle roast to a cheeseless tomato pie that he made for me off the menu. His Forager ($23), with basil pesto and three kinds of mushrooms, was balanced and did not sink under the mozzarella. There’s also a plain cheese ($18), pepperoni ($21), and a margherita ($19).

    As they did with the other restaurant amenities, Critchley and O’Brien created a something-for-everyone menu, served anywhere in the space. There are pork belly burnt ends ($18); Bavarian pretzel ($13); meat-and-cheese board ($32); crispy chicken sandwich ($16) with a sesame soy glaze and kimchi on a glazed doughnut bun; and a lamb gyro ($19) with sumac red onion and tzatziki on a house-made pita. Rolls make up the sushi menu, and the few entrees include miso striped bass ($34), seared scallops ($36), cauliflower steak ($25), and steak frites ($36).

    O’Brien started in hospitality 25 years ago bartending at Reed’s in Blue Bell and counts six years at Seacrets in Ocean City, Md., and 11 years with P.J. Whelihan’s in Downingtown and Montgomeryville in his work history. Critchley, who has no hospitality background, recently sold his business, Lang’s Lawn Care in Malvern, but runs it under the new owners.

    Downingtown has always had a solid restaurant scene, with La Sponda, Myrtos, and Jads nearby and R Five Wines and East Branch Brewing Co. across the street from the Borough, and Dressler Estate serving ciders nearby. The other newcomer is mother., with a creative menu of tacos plus beer, wine, and cocktails.

    The Borough, 149 E. Lancaster Ave., Downingtown. Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Tip: Do not park in the adjacent private lot. Use the municipal lot across the street.