Category: Philly’s Best

  • Offseason eats, arcades, and live music in Asbury Park | Field Trip

    Offseason eats, arcades, and live music in Asbury Park | Field Trip

    Would you believe it if we told you Asbury Park is the same distance from Philly as Sea Isle? For many Philadelphians, the north end of the Shore might as well exist on another planet. Fortunately, the offseason is the perfect time to broaden one’s horizons — so that come summer, you might break out of the tribal nature that governs which sands you plant your umbrella in.

    As one of the larger towns on the coast, with a healthy year-round population, Asbury Park makes an ideal entrée. Things are open in the winter.

    Not everything — but enough to keep you busy for a weekend of city-level food, idiosyncratic shopping, and live music. Start the car.

    Fuel: Hey Peach

    Make your first stop just to the south of Asbury, at Hey Peach in Bradley Beach. This inviting granny-core café-bakery from Erin “Peach” Kilker lines its wooden sideboard and pastry case with holey olive fougasses, crackling croissants, Scottish shortbread, fat cream puffs, and more. If the weather cooperates, grab one of the bistro tables out front and enjoy your pastry (or three) with a Counter Culture coffee.

    📍 126 Main St., Bradley Beach, N.J. 07720

    Stay: Asbury Ocean Club

    It might not be beach weather, but the glittering sea views from the 11-foot windows at Asbury Ocean Club are just as dramatic in winter. The soothing dune-and-khaki suites in this luxurious 54-room high-rise — which opened in 2019 — feel especially indulgent in the offseason. Winter rates hover in the mid-$300s; that same room can top $1,000 on a summer weekend.

    📍 1101 Ocean Ave. N., Asbury Park, N.J. 07712

    Play: Silverball Retro Arcade

    Cosplay your favorite Stranger Things kid (minus the Vecna creepy-crawlies) at Silverball Retro Arcade. Gamer or not, it’s impossible not to light up like the 1992 Addams Family pinball machine when you step inside this clanging, jangling boardwalk fixture. And because it’s not summer, the chances are good you’ll have no trouble finding an empty Skee-Ball lane. (Fun fact: Skee-Ball was invented in Vineland in 1907, with early alleys manufactured in Philly.)

    📍 1000 Ocean Ave. N., Asbury Park, N.J. 07712

    Shop: Asbury Park Bazaar

    Right in the middle of the boardwalk, where you can shop for travel-inspired hoodies at Promised Land Apparel and thrifted art supplies at Asbury Park Art Club, Asbury Park Bazaar pops up through the year inside the Grand Arcade at Convention Hall. More than 50 vendors will fill the space on Valentine’s Day weekend, selling everything from patch-customized beanies and travel-inspired hoodies to candles that melt into massage oil.

    📍 1300 Ocean Ave. N., Unit C-4, Asbury Park, N.J. 07712

    Read: Paranormal Books & Curiosities

    Ghost ships, Victorian murders, haunted houses — in Asbury Park, spooky season never really ends. Paranormal Books & Curiosities anchors the city’s supernatural streak, selling horror novels, spellbooks, and oddities, while also running ghost tours and curating a small paranormal museum. Whether you’re looking for Grady Hendrix, Paul Tremblay, or something to summon the corners, you’ll find it here.

    📍 621 Cookman Ave., Asbury Park, N.J. 07712

    Dine: Judy & Harry’s

    Named for owner Neilly Robinson’s parents, Judy & Harry’s in the St. Laurent Hotel is a two-in-one restaurant and cocktail bar with butterscotch leather barstools, frosted globe lights, and framed family photos. The menu, by Robinson’s partner and James Beard semifinalist David Viana, blends her Italian and Jewish heritage with dishes like limoncello-splashed hamachi crudo, ricotta-matzo ball soup, schmaltzy potatoes, and chicken and eggplant parm. If you’re visiting Asbury on a Sunday, swing in for their $38 Sunday Sauce prix fixe supper.

    📍 408 Seventh Ave., Asbury Park, N.J. 07712

    Jam: The Stone Pony

    What’s the opposite of a sleeper pick? First opened in 1974, Stone Pony is so deeply and inextricably tethered to Asbury Park. Everyone knows it. The bar and venue runs shows every weekend through the offseason, and the variety is pretty astounding: a Dave Matthews tribute band, country singer Hunter Hayes, a student showcase from Red Bank’s School of Rock, bassist and Phish cofounder Mike Gordon. Tourists go. Summer people go. Locals go. You should go.

    📍 913 Ocean Ave. N., Asbury Park, N.J. 07712

  • Best barbecue in Philadelphia to eat right now

    Best barbecue in Philadelphia to eat right now

    Philly isn’t exactly known for barbecue. But there is a robust scene here, with players, old and new, doing it up right and keeping us full.

    Local barbecue specialists smoke meats for more than a dozen hours to achieve the perfect smoke ring and Texas-trained chefs cook up exciting takes on classic barbecue dishes.

    Here is our guide to the region’s best barbecue.

    Fette Sau

    Fette Sau (German for “Fat Pig”), opened in Fishtown to eager crowds more than a decade ago and has since established itself as a mainstay in the Philly barbecue scene. The shop has three signature barbecue sauces each offering its own tangy, smoky, or spicy flavor to the pink-ringed smoked meats and meat-heavy sandwiches.

    📍1208 Frankford Ave., 📞 215-391-4888, 🌐 fettesauphilly.com, 📷 @fettesauphilly

    Ruth Henri, owner and chef, prepares ribs from the smoker with help from Michael Bradley at Henri’s Hotts BBQ, a roadside barbecue joint in Hammonton, N.J.

    Henri’s Hotts BBQ

    After owner Doug Henri passed away unexpectedly in 2021, his capable wife Ruthie took over the beloved roadside barbecue spot known for slow-smoked meats and homestyle soul food. Not much has changed with the family matriarch at the helm: The brisket — which smokes for 19 hours — is still moist, the St. Louis Style ribs are still cooked until the ribs bend and served fresh (never reheated), and the corn pudding still comes from Henri’s grandmother’s recipe.

    📍1003 E. Black Horse Pike, Hammonton, NJ,📞 609-270-7268, 🌐 henrishottsbarbeque.com, 📷 @henrishottsbbq

    Mike’s BBQ

    Pit master Mike Strauss may have sold his namesake barbecue joint to young gun Daniel Grobman in 2023, but Strauss’ energy still courses through the kitchen thanks to a virtually unchanged menu. The spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, and crispy pork belly remain fantastic, while the restaurant’s Korean barbecue wings have a hard to replicate smokey-yet-spicy flavor — just asked Herr’s, which made a limited-edition chip inspired by the recipe in 2023.

    📍1703 S. 11th St., 📞 267-831-2040, 🌐 mikesbbqphilly.com, 📷 @mikesbbq_215

    A platter including pork ribs, brisket, and jerk chicken at Big Swerve’s BBQ, located 201 Broadway, Westville, N.J.

    Big Swerve’s BBQ

    Hidden down an alley and around a parking lot in Westville, Gloucester County, is Big Swerve’s, a converted shipping container that churns out oversized platters of brisket and chicken with all the classic Southern fixings. Big Swerve is actually Stephen Clark, a former Free Library of Philadelphia security guard who stands 6′3″ and is fastidious about what powers his smoker ( lump charcoal, oak and cherry wood, never hickory). Big Swerve’s is best known for their brisket-stuffed egg rolls and jerk chicken sliders, plus combos that include three proteins and three sides, more than enough to share.

    📍201 Broadway, Westville, N.J.📞 856-349-7469, 🌐 bigswervesbbq.com, 📷 @bigswervesbbq

    Rick’s Backyard Barbeque & Grill

    Rick Gray opened Rick’s Backyard Barbeque & Grill in Mizpah in the location where beloved Uncle Dewey’s BBQ operated for over two decades. Here, find a smoker as big as a school bus’s hood, plus a menu inspired by the barbecue Gray’s father, Melvin Gray Sr., cooked at backyard family cookouts, a distinctive, and perhaps elusive flavor that he captures with the touch of charcoal that he adds to regulate the heat of his oak logs. Gray’s seasonings are fairly simple, letting the meats and their slow ride through the long brick smoking pits. Try the tender spareribs or opt for the chicken, particularly when it’s taken fresh off the grill. Rick’s is closed for the season through mid-April, but is still taking catering order over the phone should a rib emergency ever strike.

    📍 6931 US-40, Mizpah, NJ, .📞 609-476-4040 🌐 facebook.com/ricksbbqgrill

    The Hickory smoked wings at Sweet Lucy’s Smokehouse, located at 7500 State Rd. in Holmesburg.

    Sweet Lucy’s Smokehouse

    Sweet Lucy’s Smokehouse in Holmesburg is a reliable barbecue spot with a well-rounded menu of hickory-smoked meats, sandwiches, and sides. Meats like smoked chicken and pulled pork are available in platter, sandwich or just meat form, and smoked wings and baby back ribs round out the menu.

    📍7500 State Rd., .📞 215-333-9663 🌐 sweetlucys.com, 📷 @sweetlucys_bbq

    Brisket, pulled pork, and pork ribs from the Ole Hickory smoker at Zig Zag BBQ in Kensington.

    Zig Zag BBQ

    Owner Matt Lang smokes on a gas-fired Ole Hickory, turning out brisket, pork, turkey, and pork spare ribs, which he sells by the pound and in sandwiches. A rotating assortment of sides such as queso mac, corn pudding, potato salad, and KFC style slaw complement the selection of meats.

    📍2111 E. York St., .📞 267-951-2596 🌐 zigzagbbq.com, 📷 @zigzagbbq

  • Philly, here are 15 great places to get party trays for Super Bowl LX

    Philly, here are 15 great places to get party trays for Super Bowl LX

    If you’re hosting or attending a Super Bowl party, food is a must — lots of it.

    The Philly area offers an abundance of options for trays, platters, and à la carte items. From traditional Italian fare and charcuterie boards to savory Indian, Middle Eastern, and Argentinian party foods, the variety is impressive.

    Here are some excellent spots around Philly for picking up a spread for your Super Bowl party. And since the Eagles aren’t playing, the hardest part of your day will be deciding what to eat.

    Philly Pretzel Factory

    You can’t go wrong with a pretzel tray, especially when it’s from a Philly favorite. Get the large size rivets party tray for 20 to 25 people with three dips or the classic Philly Pretzel-style beef pretzel dogs and dips for 20 to 25 guests. The pepperoni melts — basically a pretzel pizza — are another good option for large parties. Order at any of the various locations.

    📍1532 Sansom St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19102 (and other locations from Woodbury to Springfield), 📞 215-569-3988, 📷 @phillypretzelfactory, 🌐 phillypretzelfactory.com

    Veda

    From quarter trays for 10 people to full ones serving 50 people, this Center City restaurant has all the veggie samosas, tandoori chicken, and pork ribs for you and your crew. Choose from lamb, chicken, vegetarian, and seafood entrees, rice and biryani items, soups and salads, and desserts, including gulab jamun and kheer. Mango lassi is also offered.

    📍1920 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19103, 📞 267-519-2001, 📷 @vedaphilly, 🌐 vedaphilly.com

    Di Bruno Bros.

    If you’re looking for a cheese tray or charcuterie board, it’s tough to beat this Philly institution. The shop has a catering arm for premade cheese boards, charcuterie trays, sandwich trays, crudités platters, colossal shrimp cocktail, desserts, and just about anything else you can think of — all available for pickup or delivery. You can also build your perfect board from a substantial selection of cheeses, cured meats, and other specialty items with the help of Di Bruno Bros.’ expert cheesemongers.

    📍930 S. Ninth St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19147 (locations throughout Philadelphia), 📞 215-922-2876 (or 215-665-1659 for catering), 📷 @DiBrunoBros, 🌐 dibruno.com

    Termini Brothers Bakery

    This Philly classic, established in 1923, offers an array of sweets including cannoli, cakes, sfogliatelle, and almond horns, along with roughly a dozen types of cookies. Termini’s cookie trays showcase eight varieties, such as pignoli, coconut macaroons, imbutitti, and scumetti, and can serve up to 35 people depending on the tray size. Biscotti boxes and cannoli trays are also available for those looking for more variety, or you can opt for a prepackaged cookie tin, which is available for shipping.

    📍 1523 S. Eighth St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19147 (locations also in Packer Park Shopping Center, Reading Terminal Market, Comcast Center, and Live! Casino & Hotel), 📞 215-334-1816, 📷 @Termini_Bros, 🌐 termini.com

    Campo’s Deli

    Yes, Campo’s has been slinging good steaks since 1947, but the deli also has other extremely Philly party trays. The pretzel tray, for example, includes enough pretzels, Peanut Chews, whiz, and mustard to serve up to 30 people, or you can go full dessert mode with a variety platter of Tastykakes that will feed up to 25.

    📍 214 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19106 📞 215-923-1000, 📷 @CamposPhillyCheesesteaks, 🌐 camposdeli.com

    Woodrow’s Sandwich Shop

    If you’re going the sandwich route to feed a crowd, this South Street spot has a ton of options ranging from a cheesesteak made with shaved rib-eye and truffle whiz to a vegan-friendly falafel sandwich with roasted beets. Woodrow’s signature sandwich tray comes ready to serve 10 people and includes three sandwiches of your choice. Or, if you want it a little more DIY, grab a hot tray of meatballs, coffee barbecue brisket, or hot pork that can feed up to 25 people and have folks serve themselves.

    📍630 South St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19147, 📞 215-470-3559, 📷 @WoodrowSandwich, 🌐 woodrowsandwich.com

    Isgro Pastries

    This South Philly institution, a 2024 James Beard semifinalist, has been delighting customers with specialties like cannoli, rum cake, and ricotta cookies since 1904. Among its standout party offerings is the Chip and Dip tray — but forget about tortillas. This innovative take on the traditional cannoli platter comes in two sizes, serving either 12-15 (small) or 20-25 people (large), and features crispy cannoli chips paired with chocolate cream, vanilla cream, and ricotta with dark chocolate chip dips, ensuring that soggy party cannoli are a thing of the past.

    📍 1009 Christian St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19147 📞 215-923-3092, 📷 @IsgroPastries, 🌐 isgropastries.com

    Indeblue

    This Cherry Hill restaurant offers an array of party tray and catering options perfect for any gathering. Choices include tandoori lollipop lamb chops, veggie or paneer shashlik, veggie samosas, fresh naan, and more. For dessert, indulge in kheer and chai or chocolate pot de crème — most options are designed to serve up to 20 people, depending on the size selected. If you’re looking for something to quench your thirst, consider grabbing a bottle of mango lassi, house-made chai, or mint lemonade, each bottle serving 15.

    📍65 Barclay Farms Shopping Center, Cherry Hill, NJ 08034, 📞 856-230-4633, 📷 @Indeblue, 🌐 indebluerestaurant.com

    Manakeesh Cafe, Bakery & Grill

    This University City spot gets its name from a traditional Lebanese flatbread made with crispy dough and vegetarian or halal meats. And, of course, you can order them for a crowd topped with beef, lamb, labneh, cheese, and more. Or you can go with other savory options like beef or chicken shawarma, platters of dips like hummus and baba ghannouj, falafel, grape leaves, and more — and finish with trays of the cafe’s famous baklava; creamy, cheesy kanafe; or basboosa (a semolina cake soaked in syrup).

    📍 4420 Walnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19104, 📞 215-921-2135, 📷 @ManakeeshCafe, 🌐 manakeeshcafe.com

    Jezabel’s Argentine Café & Catering

    Grab a savory platter from chef Jezabel Careaga, like empanadas that run the gamut from spicy beef or chicken to ham and mozzarella or vegan-friendly lentils (they come in packs of 12 or in an assorted box of eight). Or, keep it sweet and check out Jezabel’s alfajores (a kind of Argentinian cookie sandwich filled with dulce de leche), egg custard tarts or torta de ricotta.

    📍 206-208 S. 45th St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19104, 📞 215-554-7380, 📷 @Jezabels.PHL, 🌐 jezabelsphl.com

    Corropolese Italian Bakery & Deli

    If the occasion calls for tomato pie, Corropolese is the place to go. You can grab quarter (eight slices) or full sheets (30 slices) of its famous tomato pie from any of four Pennsylvania locations, either plain or topped with add-ons like sweet peppers, fried eggplant, or pepperoni. If you want something a little more refined, the Norristown and Limerick locations offer catering options that can serve up to 24 people, with offerings like antipasto, bruschetta, prosciutto-wrapped melon, and a variety of hot hors d’oeuvres (72 hours’ notice required, pickup only).

    📍 2014 Old Arch Rd., Norristown, Pa. 19401 (locations also in Limerick and Audubon, Pa.), 📞 610-275-6664, 📷 @CorropoleseBakery, 🌐 corropolesebakery.com

    Johnny Paisano’s

    Located in Springfield, Delaware County, this beloved local establishment offers an extensive selection of “red gravy” Italian dishes, hoagies, wraps, and finger foods. À la carte platter options feature full sheets of pizza (24 slices) in more than a dozen varieties, massive strombolis (a large serves 70 slices), hoagie trays (up to 32 pieces), and appetizers like bruschetta and fried ravioli. For events feeding 50 or more people, consider the catering packages, which can simplify menu planning for you.

    📍 143 S. State Road, Springfield, Pa. 19064, 📞 610-690-0150, 📷 @JohnnyPaisanos, 🌐 johnnypaisanos.com

    Streetside BBQ

    To keep your parties a little smoky, head to Willow Grove for a bevy of BBQ platters, desserts, classic sides, and, of course, meat by the pound. Streetside has everything from baby back ribs, brisket, smoked wings, and pulled pork to prime rib, beef tenderloin, and smoked Italian sausage and leg of lamb — plus sides like half pans (serves 20 to 24 people) of baked beans, collard greens, smoked veggies, and more.

    📍 801 W. Moreland Rd., Willow Grove, Pa. 19090, 📞 215-821-7665, 📷 @Streetside_BBQ, 🌐 streetsidebarbecue.com

    Carlino’s Market

    Folks out in the western ‘burbs probably know this longtime favorite, seeing as it’s been a destination for gourmet Italian fare and ingredients for roughly 40 years now. Like its urban counterpart Di Bruno Bros., Carlino’s list of offerings is almost endless. If you’re after game-day eats, you’ll want to get quarter tomato pie with football stencil, and six-inch stadium cannoli cake, miniature football eclairs, and chocolate dipped football strawberries.

    📍 2616 E. County Line Rd., Ardmore, Pa. 19003 (and in West Chester), 📞 610-649-4046, 📷 @CarlinosMarket, 🌐 carlinosmarket.com

    Grazing Affair

    It’s all about grazing at this Medford shop, which focuses on “grazing boards” and boxes. Choose from a ton of custom-made boards and takeaway boxes with a wide variety of meats, cheeses, crackers, bread, dried fruits, veggies, nuts, olives, and dips (boards, meanwhile, come with flowers and herbs for style points, and you can even keep the pine board they come on). Or, for something unique, check out the charcuterie cones. Note: Grazing platters start at $180 and require a week’s notice.

    📍5 S. Main St., Medford, N.J., 08055, 📞 609-975-8069, 📷 @GrazingAffair, 🌐 grazingaffair.com

    Beatrice Forman contributed to this article.

  • Pizza, museums, and waterfront walks in New Haven | Field Trip

    Pizza, museums, and waterfront walks in New Haven | Field Trip

    With a population of just over 140,000, New Haven still manages to be tiny Connecticut’s third-largest city — and one that punches well above its weight as a weekend getaway.

    It’s a university town, a harbor town, and a New England town, all folded into one. The result is a destination with world-class cultural institutions, excellent food — the pizza is as outrageous as you’ve heard — and easy access to the outdoors, from the river-fed coast of Long Island Sound to one of the largest urban parks in the region. From Philly, it’s about three hours and change up I-95, depending on traffic around New York. Start the car.

    Stay: Hotel Marcel

    Originally the HQ of the tire-producing Armstrong Rubber Co., the Wharf District Hotel Marcel inhabits an architecturally significant, brutalist concrete building honeycombed with windows and retrofitted to run entirely on renewable energy. The inside is just as interesting: terrazzo staircases with mahogany rails, Connecticut-made walnut beds, and a circular bar pouring spirulina margaritas and nonalcoholic spiced cranberry cider.

    📍 500 Sargent Dr., New Haven, Conn. 06511

    Hike: East Rock Park

    New Haven’s central green space, East Rock Park, spans 427 acres and rises 350 feet above the city, rewarding visitors with sweeping views of downtown and Long Island Sound. Not feeling a winter hike? You can drive to the summit instead. Traveling with kids? Stop by the Trowbridge Environmental Center on the park’s west side for hands-on exhibits about the local ecology.

    📍 41 Cold Spring St., New Haven, Conn. 06511

    Lunch: Frank Pepe and Sally’s Apizza

    If there’s only one thing you know about New Haven, it’s probably the pizza. Or as they call it here, apizza (“a-beetz”), derived from the southern Italian immigrants that opened the first shops in the early 1900s.

    For lunch, stage a mini pie crawl along Wooster Street and compare two legends located a block apart. At Frank Pepe (est. 1925), the tomato pie and oregano-dusted white clam pie are classics for a reason. At Sally’s Apizza (1938), whose recent expansion hasn’t dimmed the original’s quality, the blistered tomato pie with mozzarella is the move.

    📍 Frank Pepe: 157 Wooster St., New Haven, Conn. 06511

    📍 Sally’s Apizza: 237 Wooster St., New Haven, Conn. 06511

    Visit: Yale Peabody Museum

    If there are only two things you know about New Haven, they’re probably the pizza and Yale. The Ivy’s lovely, leafy campus dominates the center of town. (It’s no Penn, but…) The impressive collection at the Yale Peabody Museum, which is free to visit and requires no advance ticketing, includes a towering brontosaurus skeleton, a 300-pound Brazilian tourmaline cluster, and 4000-year-old Mesopotamian cuneiform tablets.

    📍 170 Whitney Ave., New Haven, Conn. 06511

    Read: Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library

    Decried as an incongruous eyesore when the Gordon Bunshaft-designed Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library opened in 1963, the modernist building has become an architectural icon on campus. Translucent marble cladding gives the interior a cozy glow while protecting the literary treasures, which are arranged in a stunning five-story cubic column, from sun damage. Even if you’re not a rare-books obsessive, it’s worth visiting for the space alone. Current exhibits include a 15th-century Gutenberg Bible and illustrated Japanese crepe-paper books.

    📍 121 Wall St., New Haven, Conn. 06511

    Dine: Fair Haven Oyster Co.

    It’ll likely be a bit too chilly to sit out on the pretty deck over the Quinnipiac River, but the warm woodwork and porthole windows get the seafood-tavern vibe across well at Fair Haven Oyster Co. Start with four different types of New England oysters, then progress to tots topped with American sturgeon caviar, oil-poached tuna toast, and bone-in skate wing in Meyer lemon brown butter. Skip dessert.

    📍 307 Front St., New Haven, Conn. 06513

    Scoop: Arethusa Farm Dairy

    Based in Litchfield County, Arethusa Farm Dairy produces some of the richest ice cream around, using 16%-butterfat milk from its own cows. Lucky for New Haven visitors, there’s an outpost at the Yale Shops. Breathe in the smell of freshly pressed waffle cones while choosing from classic flavors like coconut-coconut chunk, strawberry that actually tastes like strawberries, and an excellent coffee ice cream. One scoop is never enough.

    📍 1020 Chapel St., New Haven, Conn. 06510

  • Waterfalls, cabins, art, and eats in Milford, Pa. | Field Trip

    Waterfalls, cabins, art, and eats in Milford, Pa. | Field Trip

    Milford is an outdoorsy town — and then some.

    It sits along the scenic banks of the Upper Delaware River in Pike County, surrounded by mountains, with access to major trails, canoeing, kayaking, and biking, and the tallest waterfall in Pennsylvania. It’s an adventure hub among the best in the tristate region.

    But Milford isn’t just for people in hiking boots. It’s also an artsy town, with galleries, a theater, and dedicated film, music, and writers’ festivals. It’s a shopping destination too, with a slew of antique and gift shops, and a healthy-living store that rivals anything in Philadelphia or New York.

    “Geographically, I believe Milford has the edge over most small towns around,” said local entrepreneur Bill Rosado, who owns some popular businesses in town. “It is centered so well. Just looking at the town is a treat to me.”

    There’s plenty of history in Milford, too, which calls itself the “birthplace of the conservation movement” as it was home to Gifford Pinchot, founder and first chief of the U.S. Forest Service. It also has a historical museum that’s home to a unique and morbid artifact from the Civil War era.

    And, finally, you have to eat. Milford is home to fine dining at historic hotels, both fancy and cozy bars, along with breweries, classic diners, organic coffee, and, thanks to Rosado, authentic food from Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula. (He was born there.)

    Milford’s about 75 miles northwest of Manhattan and just across the river from North Jersey, so yes, you’ll see Yankees and Giants gear, but it’s just 135 miles from Philly, so get up there.

    One of the cabins available for rent at Sean Strub’s Dwarfskill Preserve in Milford, Pa.

    Stay: Dwarfskill Preserve

    There are plenty of hotels in downtown Milford that are in the midst of everything the town has to offer, including the historic and ornate Hotel Fauchère and the Tom Quick Inn, which would be at home in Cape May. Rosado owns both of them.

    I’ve been eyeing up the tiny cabin at the 575-acre Dwarfskill Preserve, up in the hills above town, for years now, as a former colleague had spent extended time there over the years and shared lovely pictures. It’s owned by former Milford mayor Sean Strub and consists of three separate properties: the one-room cabin I rented for a few nights with my girlfriend, Jen, and my dog, Wanda, and two larger cabins that can fit more people.

    We stayed there over the New Year’s holiday, cooking brisket in the microwave and making coffee on the hot plate. While Milford and the Dwarfskill are undoubtedly at their best in the summer and fall, when you can take full advantage of the outdoor opportunities, including the swimming hole at the cabin, we watched both the wood fireplace and the ample snowfall outside for hours. It was hard to leave, a full hygge experience, in Northeastern Pennsylvania.

    📍 Dwarfskill Falls Lane, Milford, Pa. 18337

    Grey Towers, the Pinchot family residence, outside Milford, and the family’s haven from 1886 to 1963. The family made its fortune in lumber.

    Explore: Grey Towers National Historic Site

    If you drive around Pennsylvania as much as I do, you’ll see the name Gifford Pinchot quite a bit. Pinchot was a two-term governor of the Commonwealth and has a 54,000-acre state forest named after him.

    He went on to found and run the U.S. Forest Service and is generally considered a pioneer in the U.S. conservation movement. Pinchot was born in Milford and his home, Grey Towers, is a national historic landmark run by the U.S. Forest Service. Its curated gardens, French chateau-style stone architecture, and expansive library can all be seen on tours, both in-person during spring, summer, and fall, and online all year round.

    At 150-feet tall, Raymondskill Falls is the tallest waterfall in Pennsylvania.

    If you’re interested in something a little more outdoorsy, visit Raymondskill Falls, which, at 150 feet, is the tallest in Pennsylvania. You can, technically, visit in winter, but the ice and snow could be treacherous. In summer, you might have to brave some crowds and jammed parking lots, but the views are worth it.

    📍 Grey Towers: 122 Old Owego Turnpike, Milford, Pa. 18337

    📍 Raymondskill Falls: Raymondskill Road, Milford, Pa. 18337

    Learn: The Pike County Historical Society at the Columns

    It’s not every day that a county historical society can really wow you with an artifact, but Pike County punches up with a Civil War relic you won’t find anywhere else in the world: the bloody U.S. flag used to cradle Abraham Lincoln’s head after he was shot at Ford’s Theatre in 1865.

    The flag and other exhibits are housed in “the Columns,” a 1904 neoclassical-style mansion. Want to learn how they obtained the flag? Visit on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays.

    📍 608 Broad St., Milford, Pa. 18337

    Shop: Better World Store and Cafe

    It’s hard to pin down Better World Store and Cafe in one category.

    It’s a place to get coffee or tea and healthy pastries. It’s a community hub, where people gather to meet or work remotely.

    It’s also a place to look good, with woolens and other “natural” clothes, and smell good, or simply be good, with homesteading supplies and books.

    📍 Broad Street, Milford, Pa. 18337

    Eat: Felix’s Cantina at La Posada

    Jen spends weeks in the Yucatan every winter, so she was surprised to see a restaurant in Northeastern Pennsylvania promising a “taste of the Yucatan Peninsula and other regional dishes from southern Mexico.”

    Rosado, who also owns a historic theater in town, owns the Cantina at La Posada, yet another one of his hotels. He was born in Merida, the capital of Yucatan.

    He knows the dishes well, and she approved, describing our pork and birria tacos as “fattening and delicious.”

    For breakfast, the Waterwheel Café Bakery Bar, an old grist mill along Sawkill Creek, serves up a killer thick-cut challah French toast. We basically licked the plate clean.

    The Waterwheel Café Bakery Bar

    📍 Felix’s: 210 Second St., Milford, Pa. 18337

    📍 Waterwheel: 150 Water St., Milford, Pa. 18337

  • Ena Widjojo, owner and longtime celebrated chef at Hardena in South Philadelphia, has died at 73

    Ena Widjojo, owner and longtime celebrated chef at Hardena in South Philadelphia, has died at 73

    Ena Widjojo, 73, of Philadelphia, owner and longtime celebrated chef at the Hardena restaurant in South Philadelphia, mentor, and mother, died Wednesday, Dec. 24, of cancer at her home.

    Born and reared in Java, Indonesia, Mrs. Widjojo came to the United States in 1969 when she was 17. She opened a cantina at the Indonesian Consulate in New York in 1977, worked as a caterer in the 1990s after the cantina closed in 1989, and moved to Philadelphia in 2000 to open Hardena with her husband, Harry.

    Over the next decade and a half, until she retired in 2017, Mrs. Widjojo grew Hardena, described by the Daily News in 2007 as “a postage-stamp-size luncheonette at Hicks and Moore Streets in a gritty section of South Philly,” into a culinary and cultural connection for thousands of local Indonesians and other diners who enjoyed her homemade Southeast Asia cuisine.

    The corner restaurant’s name is a blend of their names, Harry and Ena, and features Indonesian specialties such as golden tofu, goat curry, saté chicken, beef rendang, and tempeh. “It’s the best Indonesian food in Philadelphia, a great mix of Indian and Chinese flavors,” elementary schoolteacher Aaron MacLennan told the Daily News in 2007.

    This photo of Mrs. Widjojo appeared in the Daily News in 2007

    In 2012, Philadelphia Magazine named Hardena one of its Best of Philly Indonesian restaurants, calling it a “no-frills, high-flavor buffet.” In February 2018, Mrs. Widjojo and two of her three daughters were named semifinalists for the James Beard Foundation’s best chef award for the Mid-Atlantic states. In October 2018, Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan praised the restaurant’s “aromatic steam table of homestyle cooking that’s been a well-priced anchor of Indonesian comfort for 18 years.”

    Friendly and ever present at the lunch and dinner rushes, Mrs. Widjojo was known as Mama to many of her customers and friends. She learned how to bake and cook from her mother, a culinary teacher in Java, and later incorporated many of her mother’s recipes into her own memorable melting pot of Indian, Chinese, Arab, Portuguese, Spanish, English, and Dutch dishes at Hardena.

    “She served me greens once, and I felt like I was at home,” a friend said on Instagram.

    She and her husband traveled weekly between Philadelphia and Queens while their daughters — Diana, Maylia, and Stephanie — finished school in New York. Maylia and Diana assumed control of Hardena when Mrs. Widjojo retired, and Diana opened the restaurant Rice & Sambal on East Passyunk Avenue in 2024.

    Earlier, at the consulate in New York, Mrs. Widjojo made meals for former Secretary of State Henry Kissinger and former Indonesian President Suharto and his large entourage. “I cooked for all the diplomats.” she told The Inquirer in 2018.

    Mrs. Widjojo (second from right) smiles with her husband and three daughters.

    She grew chili peppers and lime trees in her South Philly backyard, was happy to share kitchen tips and cultural traditions with visitors and cooking classes, and helped her daughters cater the 2019 James Beard Foundation’s annual Media Awards in New York.

    She worked six days a week for years and told edible Philly in 2017 that her retirement was good for her daughters. “If I’m cooking all the time,” she said, “they’re not learning.”

    Ena Djuneidi Juniarsah was born April 24, 1952. She baked cakes in a charcoal oven for her mother in Java and sold cookies and pastries after school when she was young. “

    Her mother was strict about cooking, Mrs. Widjojo said in 2018, and discarded any and all imperfect creations. “Like me, with my kids’ cooking,” she said, “if you’re not good, that’s no good.”

    She married fellow restaurateur Harry Widjojo in New York and spent time as a singer, beautician, florist, and nanny before cooking full time. Away from the restaurant, she enjoyed drawing, painting, crocheting, and family strolls in the park.

    Mrs. Widjojo and her husband, Harry, were married in New York.

    She could be goofy, her daughters said. She sang “You Are My Sunshine” when they were young and served as their lifelong mentor and teacher.

    Friends called her “sweet,” “amazing,” “a beautiful soul,” and “warm and welcoming” on Instagram. She was diagnosed with cancer in 2015.

    “Her life, generosity, and talent enriched the hearts of all who met her,” her family said in a tribute. “She taught us that feeding people is one of the purest ways to show love, have pride in our culture, and support our family.”

    Maylia said: “She was always giving.”

    Stephanie said: “She was always there for me.”

    Mrs. Widjojo (center) stands in Hardena with her daughters Maylia (left) and Diana in 2020.

    Diana said: “She saw the world with open arms and an open heart. She was a wonder woman.”

    In addition to her husband and daughters, Mrs. Widjojo is survived by two grandchildren, a sister, two brothers, and other relatives. A sister and two brothers died earlier.

    A celebration of her life was held Dec. 27.

    Donations in her name may be made to Masjid Al Falah Mosque, 1603 S. 17th St. Philadelphia, Pa. 19145.

    Mrs. Widjojo came to the United States from Java when she was 17.
  • Antiques, river hikes, and cozy inns in Lambertville and Stockton | Field Trip

    Antiques, river hikes, and cozy inns in Lambertville and Stockton | Field Trip

    Walt Whitman, Ben Franklin, Betsy Ross — these are the massive engineering marvels that come to mind when most Philadelphians think of the bridges between Pennsylvania and New Jersey. But less than an hour north of the city, the Delaware narrows enough to let charming, Norman Rockwell-type trusses span the forested riverbanks.

    Everyone knows New Hope. But on the opposite side of the river, Lambertville and neighboring Stockton make a compelling case for a Jersey-side getaway, thanks to stylish revived historic inns, a vibrant arts scene, and some excellent shopping. Start the car.

    Hunt: Golden Nugget Antique Flea Market

    Coming off I-95 and up River Road, you’ll hit Golden Nugget Antique Flea Market, just outside Lambertville. Over five decades, this sprawling indoor-outdoor operation has grown into one of the largest antique markets in the region. Treasure hunt for Tiffany-glass lamps, rare baseball cards, glittering geodes, and more. Don’t miss Art & Restoration gallery on the first floor, where the chatty owner is happy to talk through the process of paper deacidification and the highlights of his ever-changing collection (which recently included a Picasso).

    📍 1850 River Rd., Lambertville, N.J. 08530

    Hike: Goat Hill Overlook

    River towns offer plenty of scenic walks along the water, but a little elevation makes all the difference. Goat Hill Overlook, halfway between the Golden Nugget and downtown Lambertville, is a low-effort, high-reward climb: a gently uphill, paved path that clocks just under a mile from the trailhead parking lot. At the summit, the blue, bridge-laced Delaware slides toward the horizon before dissolving into the woods.

    📍 Coon Path, Lambertville, N.J. 08530

    Shop: Downtown Lambertville

    Indie boutiques, antique dealers, and cafés line the streets of downtown Lambertville, which stretches along Bridge Street (at the foot of the New Hope-Lambertville Bridge) and spiders out in a series of charming alleys and lanes. Wander into Zinc for home and garden inspo, Lambert + Hope for Flamingo Estate candles and Laguiole knives, and Panoply for special-edition books and vintage vinyl.

    📍 Bridge Street, Lambertville, N.J. 08530

    Snack: RSC Atelier

    Perhaps the only gourmet grocery you’ll find attached to a gas station, RSC Atelier in Stockton grew out of the old Rosemont Supper Club nearby. Build a picnic basket with Iberico ham, upscale tinned fish, and farmstead cheese sourced by sister business Immortal Milk Cheese Co.

    📍 10 Risler St., Stockton, N.J. 08559

    Stay: The Stockton Inn

    A crossroads for travelers since 1710, the nine-key Stockton Inn reopened in 2024 after a seven-year renovation that modernized the staying experience while still preserving the building’s historic bones. Earthy colors and natural fabrics give the rooms and suites a tranquil, contemporary vibe that feels both at home in the country but also more stylish than the typical area B&Bs.

    📍 1 S. Main St., Stockton, N.J. 08559

    See: Music Mountain Theatre

    New Hope’s Bucks County Playhouse gets most of the attention, but just a mile from Lambertville’s downtown, Music Mountain Theatre is quietly expanding the arts scene on the Jersey side of the river. Founded in 2017, the company stages polished productions year-round for families and adults alike. This winter’s lineup includes Grease (through Feb. 1), followed by Dangerous Liaisons and Shrek the Musical.

    📍 1483 N.J.-179, Lambertville, N.J. 08530

    Dine: Sergeantsville Inn

    True to headline, nearly everywhere in this guide has a Lambertville or Stockton address. Dinner is the only exception. For that, head three and a half miles inland to the Sergeantsville Inn. Chef Sean Gray, formerly of New York’s Momofuku Ko, runs the tavern and restaurant housed in a building that dates to 1734. Stone walls, wood beams, and Shaker-style chairs set the stage for a candlelit meal of radicchio salad with cheddar and pears, beer-battered onion rings with horseradish aioli, or a whole roasted duck. Look alive — the Revolution is here.

    📍 601 Rosemont Ringoes Rd., Sergeantsville, N.J. 08557

  • Charm City eats, museums, and waterfront stays in Baltimore | Field Trip

    Charm City eats, museums, and waterfront stays in Baltimore | Field Trip

    Sometimes you take a road trip to experience something totally different from the world you inhabit — the absolute silence of a state forest, the carnivalesque majesty of the shore in full swing. A weekend in Baltimore is not that kind of trip.

    Charm City is the most Philly of the cities on the Acela corridor: smaller in size, but equally quirky, proud, and shaped by blue-collar roots. (Our accents are even passably close.) It’s also stacked with restaurants, museums, and cultural institutions that compete on a national level, all with a distinctly Baltimorean flavor, less than two hours away.

    Here’s how to spend a long weekend in Charm City.

    Snack: Café Los Sueños

    Once arriving in Baltimore proper, take I-83 up to the Remington neighborhood on the north side of the city, where Café Los Sueños roasts and brews its own beans in a peaceful, light-washed space a couple blocks off the highway exit. (The name translates to “Café of Dreams,” fitting for owner Carlos Payes, who came to the U.S. from the coffee plantations of El Salvador.) A horchata latte and croissant make for a perfectly calming start to the trip.

    📍 2740 Huntingdon Ave., Unit B, Baltimore, Md. 21211

    Sniff: Rawlings Conservatory

    If it’s not too cold — and you’re up for a walk — Los Sueños sits near the eastern edge of Druid Hill Park, the third-oldest urban park in the country and, for millennials, the namesake of Dru Hill. Follow the path along Druid Lake toward the Rawlings Conservatory, a circa-1888 botanical garden with five greenhouses. Even when it’s frosty outside, the impressive Victorian conservatories filled with tropical orchids, ceiling-skimming palms, and citrus blossoms deliver full-on summer music-video energy.

    📍 3100 Swann Dr., Baltimore, Md. 21217

    Stay: The Pendry Baltimore

    Check into the Pendry Baltimore, a moody, stylish 127-room hotel housed in a grand 1914 building on the former Recreation Pier. The Fell’s Point location is both charming and convenient, putting you within walking distance of many of Baltimore’s marquee attractions. Many of the wood-and-leather-clad rooms overlook the waterfront. The huge pool, which seems to float in the Inner Harbor, will have you booking a return visit for summer.

    📍 1715 Thames St., Baltimore, Md. 21231

    Explore: National Aquarium

    No curveball here. The National Aquarium is Baltimore’s claim to fame, and if the last time you were here was on an eighth-grade field trip, you should come back as an adult, with or without your own kids. The sprawling complex houses 2.2 million gallons of water and residents ranging from reef sharks and puffins to otters and moray eels. Don’t miss the Harbor Wetland exhibit, which opened in 2024 along a series of floating docks in the Inner Harbor and be sure to book tickets in advance. Aim for off-hours to beat the crowds.

    📍 501 E. Pratt St., Baltimore, Md. 21202

    View: American Visionary Art Museum

    The title Cap Bathing Moligator With Angelic Visitation (Dickens 44) tells you just about everything you need to know about the boundary-pushing work housed at the American Visionary Art Museum. This brick-and-mirror-clad institution in Federal Hill celebrates outsider art in all its surreal glory from landscapes to cosmological oil paintings to sculptures of a mosaic-winged Icarus and Baltimore icon Divine. The collection embodies the city’s DIY spirit and unbreakable creative streak.

    📍 800 Key Hwy., Baltimore, Md. 21230

    Drink: Charleston

    With its deep pedigree and polished service, Charleston in Harbor East possesses a sense of occasion that few restaurants have anymore. Even if you’re just passing through for drinks in its swanky little lounge, where local power brokers and big-night-out suburbanites mingle with tourists, those drinks are crafted with gravitas and élan as much as sparkling wine, passionfruit and honey (the Ipanema Fizz), or blanco tequila, Strega, and ginger (the Arandas Monk). The wine list is famously deep, which helps explain why Charleston won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program.

    📍 1000 Lancaster St., Baltimore, Md. 21202

    Dine: The Wren

    From one medalist to another, the Wren, one of Bon Appetit’s best new restaurants of 2025, sits less than a 10-minute walk from Charleston in Fell’s Point. The location is an ideal spot for drink or dinner, with a much more casual silhouette with its wood paneling, pressed-tin ceilings, and no-reservations policy. It’s a pub essentially, and like the very best pubs in Ireland and the U.K. (partner Millie Powell hails from Dublin), the cooking comforts and satisfies on a cellular level. Think glazed ham, golden onion pie, sharp cheeses, honey-roasted apple cake, and the like. (Your Philly analog is Meetinghouse.) As expected, the bartenders pour a precise pint of Guinness, the perfect finale to a Baltimore weekend.

    📍 1712 Aliceanna St., Baltimore, Md. 21231

  • Art museums, cozy inns, and mountain trails in the Berkshires | Field Trip

    Art museums, cozy inns, and mountain trails in the Berkshires | Field Trip

    In northern Massachusetts, just below the Vermont border, the Berkshires have been a four-season destination for as long as tourism has existed in America. Over the last couple of decades, greasy spoons, summer camps, and old motor lodges have given way to trendier offerings across North Adams, Lenox, and Williamstown.

    The region’s recent renaissance coincides with its rise as a cultural hub — and, more recently, an escape hatch for New Yorkers and Bostonians during the pandemic. Why should they have all the fun? At roughly four hours from Philly, the Berkshires make an easy late-fall weekend trip. You may still catch a few lingering leaves, and with any luck, an early dusting of snow. Dress warm — you’ll want plenty of time outdoors.

    Stay: TOURISTS Welcome

    With its low-slung, mid-century silhouette, TOURISTS Welcome almost blends into the forested landscape behind Route 2. That’s intentional, since this property (reborn in 2018 from a 1960s motor lodge) is all about the outdoors, offering guided Appalachian Trail hikes, waterfall meditations, and a cinematic suspension bridge strung across the Hoosic River. Inside, Scandi-meets-rustic comfort reigns: fireplaces, worn-in leather, raw wood, and window nooks perfect for reading. It works just as well for families (skip the amaro cocktails) as it does for weekending stylists.

    📍 915 State Rd., North Adams, Mass. 01247

    Visit: MASS MoCA

    While the picturesque landscapes bring many to the Berkshires, MASS MoCA has functioned as the area’s other magnet since its debut in 1999. Located in a former industrial mill complex, it’s one of the most lauded contemporary visual art museums in the country, filled with (and sometimes seemingly constructed from) colossal installations you can literally get lost in. Don’t miss the immersive light works by James Turrell.

    📍 1040 Mass MoCA Way, North Adams, Mass. 01247

    Snack: Steeple City Social

    Just a short walk from MASS MoCA, Steeple City Social lures visitors with the scent of cinnamon and coffee — and a menu that runs from thick biscuit sandwiches and sticky buns to savory cheddar-and-pickle scones. The pies by the slice are excellent, and a rotating selection of vintage housewares lines one wall. At night, the café shifts to spritzy cocktails and potatoes with caviar dip.

    📍 5 Eagle St., North Adams, Mass. 01247

    Walk: The Clark Institute Sculpture Park

    Not to be outdone by MASS MoCA, the Clark Institute is the other destination museum of the Berkshires, with a collection of American and English art that includes a striking bronze cast of Degas’ Little Dancer. But the real magic — especially for families — lies outside. Its 140-acre sculpture park is free, filled with meadows, storybook woods, and walking trails that are especially enchanting with a little snow on the ground. The museum provides snowshoes.

    📍 225 South St., Williamstown, Mass. 01267

    Sip: Berkshire Cider Project

    Pop a bottle of sour quince, crabapple-and-McIntosh pét-nat, sparkling rosé, or one of the other exciting ciders at Berkshire Cider Project. The young cidery’s tasting room is open on Saturdays and Sundays at Greylock WORKS, a former textile mill-turned-artisan hive.

    📍 508 State Rd., North Adams, Mass. 01247

    Splurge: Miraval Berkshires

    A Relax & Renew day pass at Miraval Berkshires — a nationally respected spa retreat in Lenox — isn’t cheap ($509 Sundays–Fridays; $539 Saturdays). But it includes $230 in credits for treatments (mineral body peels, birch-and-juniper foot massages), fee-based activities (falconry, golf), scheduled classes (yoga, rock climbing), full access to spa amenities, lunch, and gratuities. You can easily spend the entire day here. Consider it an early holiday gift to yourself.

    📍 55 Lee Rd., Lenox, Mass. 01240

    Eat: Water Street Grill

    If you love a cozy pub, you’ll love Water Street Grill. Historic building? Check. Friendly hospitality that makes you feel like a regular? Check. Creamy clam chowder you’d be happy to drown in? Check. At WSG, which lives in a wood-clad, century-old building, the 21 taps spout craft beers from here and away, the wings wear eight different sauces, and the meatloaf comes smothered in bourbon-kissed mushroom gravy.

    📍 123 Water St., Williamstown, Mass. 01267

  • River views, historic gardens, and standout eats in Richmond, Va. | Field Trip

    River views, historic gardens, and standout eats in Richmond, Va. | Field Trip

    Wilmington, Baltimore, Washington — watch their exits blur past on I-95 as you head farther south and see color return to the trees. The leaves that have already fallen in Fairmount Park and Rittenhouse Square seem to reappear here, lighting up the old oaks and elms that line Richmond’s stately streets. Autumn clings a little longer in this university town, where nature — from wild riverside woods to formal gardens — feels ever-present.

    Just over four hours from Philly, Richmond, Va., offers everything you’d want in a weekend escape: smart restaurants, fascinating history, and a new hotel from one of the country’s most creative hospitality groups.

    Fuel: Sub Rosa Bakery

    One of the best bakeries in the country, Sub Rosa calls Richmond’s Church Hill neighborhood home. After a devastating 2024 fire and a long rebuild, it reopens this November — and it’s absolutely where any RVA weekend should begin. Made with house-milled Virginia and Pennsylvania flours, its pastries include croissants stuffed with garlicky mushrooms or sour cherry-pistachio, crunchy biscotti, and polenta thumbprints filled with housemade jam. Order one of everything — you’ll wish you had anyway.

    📍 620 N. 25th St., Richmond, Va. 23223

    Learn: Poe Museum

    A 15-minute walk from Sub Rosa (just enough time to finish that coffee and croissant) brings you to the Poe Museum. Edgar Allen grew up and worked as a journalist in Richmond before achieving literary acclaim, a life chronicled inside this petite museum founded in 1922. It’s filled with letters, first editions, and personal relics — including the silver candelabras by which Poe wrote The Bells. The museum complex includes the Old Stone House (the oldest standing residence in the city), Poe Shrine, and the lush Enchanted Garden. Keep an eye out for the resident black cats, whose shenanigans are detailed on the @poemuseumcats Instagram account.

    📍 1914 E. Main St., Richmond, Va. 23223

    Stay: Shenandoah Mansions

    Ash Hotels’ forte is retrofitting historic buildings into eccentric, artsy-craftsy inns, and the new Shenandoah Mansions is no exception. Expect four-posted beds draped in tentlike canopies, block-printed quilts, hand-painted lamps, and checkerboard-tiled showers. Located in the Fan District — a neighborhood full of architectural candy — the inn feels residential yet central to everything.

    📍 501 N. Allen Ave., Richmond, Va. 23220

    Hike: James River Park System

    One of Richmond’s greatest assets is its proximity to nature. The James River Park System covers more than 600 acres, all within walking distance of Broad Street, the city’s main thoroughfare. Pick up the head of the North Bank Trail at South Cherry Street and Oregon Hill Parkway for an hourlong walk along boardwalks and dirt paths, past historic cemeteries, and through tunnels of color-changing leaves.

    📍 4001 Riverside Dr., Richmond, Va. 23225

    Visit: Maymont

    Exit the trail near Hampton Street and Kansas Avenue, and you’ll find yourself at Maymont, a 19th-century estate built by financier James Dooley and his wife, Sallie. Though the Gilded Age mansion is closed to tours while undergoing renovation, the grounds alone are reason to visit. Wander through the Italian Garden, along the butterfly trail, and through the Japanese Garden (the oldest on the East Coast), where boulder-backed waterfalls, koi ponds, and storybook bridges create incredible photos.

    📍 1700 Hampton St., Richmond, Va. 23220

    Drink: The Jefferson Hotel

    Fires, fortunes, presidents — and even a few alligators — have passed through the grand Jefferson Hotel since it opened in 1895. Every visitor should see the lobby’s marble floors and sweeping staircase, even if you’re not checking in. Stop by TJ’s Restaurant & Lounge for a predinner cocktail under the chandeliers; the Rotunda old-fashioned tastes like grapefruit, walnut, and old money.

    📍 101 W. Franklin St., Richmond, Va. 23220

    Dine: Stella’s

    A Richmond legend since 1983, Stella’s remains the last word in Greek cooking here. The food (artichoke moussaka, ouzo-kissed crab cakes, feta-and-Manouri cheese fries covered in shaved lamb) is just enough off-center from traditional to be interesting, while still honoring the soulfulness of the country’s cuisine. The regulars pack the dining room, creating a comfortable, gregarious vibe. Go ahead and think it: If we lived in Richmond, we’d be here all the time.

    📍 1012 Lafayette St., Richmond, Va. 23221