For more than three decades, Marion Nestle has been telling people what to eat.
In the late 1980s, she edited the first Surgeon General’s Report on Nutrition and Health, then went on to cowrite the federal government’s Dietary Guidelines for Americans and cofound New York University’s influential food studies program.
Nestle, now an emerita professor at NYU, says her time in government opened her eyes to the multi-billion-dollar food industry’s enormous influence over Congress. By the early 2000s, she became a critic of the food industry and an advocate for major food reforms, which she made the case for in best-selling books.
In 2002, Nestle published Food Politics, an exposé that argued that the food industry is at the root of many of the country’s nutritional problems. The industry rakes in ever-growing profits by churning out highly processed foods laden with additives, Nestle wrote, and then aggressively markets those foods to children and adults while lobbying against regulations and trying to co-opt nutrition experts.
Over the years, Nestle’s blunt nutrition advice, sharp criticism of food companies, and frequent media appearances made her one of the most recognizable names in nutrition. In 2006, she published one of her most popular books, What to Eat, which showed consumers how to navigate supermarkets and improve their health by deciphering food labels.
At age 89, Nestle, who lives in New York City and Ithaca, is still going strong. In November, she published her latest book: What to Eat Now: The Indispensable Guide to Good Food, How to Find It, and Why It Matters.
We wanted to know how Nestle’s knowledge of nutrition and the food industry affects her daily food decisions. So we caught up with her to find out what she eats in a typical day, which foods she loves and avoids, which “junk foods” she can’t resist, and whether she takes supplements or has advice on how to navigate grocery stores. This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
Q: What’s your general approach to food?
A: I follow Michael Pollan’s famous mantra: Eat food, not too much, mostly plants. And I define food as being unprocessed or as minimally processed as possible. Not ultra-processed. I really think that takes care of it. That doesn’t mean I’m perfect. I’m an omnivore. I eat everything. I just don’t eat very much in part because metabolism drops with age, and I don’t have much metabolism left.
I eat pretty healthy, but I don’t obsess about it. If I have a bad day of eating, I don’t worry about it. By this time, it’s pretty clear I’m not going to die prematurely. Obviously, what I’m eating is working for me because I’m 89 and I’m still here.
Q: What do you eat for breakfast?
A: I start with coffee between 8 and 9 a.m. I’ll have a couple cups of weak coffee with milk, no sugar. And then I’m at work. That’s when I do my writing. I don’t get hungry until about 10:30 or 11 a.m. That’s when I’ll usually have oatmeal or unsweetened Post Shredded Wheat cereal. It basically has one ingredient: wheat. I like the texture of Shredded Wheat and the way that it tastes. I add a little brown sugar, not much. I use a lot less sugar than what’s in presweetened cereals. And then I’ll add blueberries or whatever fruit is in season. That combination to me is really appealing.
I’ve never believed any of the research on breakfast being the most important meal of the day. Most of that was sponsored by cereal companies.
Q: What about lunch?
A: My lunches are totally irregular. Sometimes I’ll have a salad for lunch. Or if I’m having lunch with someone then I’ll eat whatever is in the restaurant. If I’m at home in New York City, I’ll harvest whatever is growing on my terrace. The peaches, cherries, raspberries, and blueberries that I was growing are long gone. But I’ve still got some lettuce and tomatoes, so I’m going to go out and pick those. I might cut up some cheese or have it with peanuts. And I might have some bread with that.
Q: What about dinner?
A: It depends. I just don’t eat that much. But I do really like salads. I can have salads twice a day. If I’m at home, I might have an egg. I might have crackers and cheese with that. I kind of like making meals based on what I have available. So, it depends on what I bought, what’s in the house, or what’s on the terrace. That’s my favorite way of cooking. We have a garden in Ithaca, there’s a garden on my terrace, and there’s a farmers market not very far from here.
I also go to a lot of neighborhood restaurants. I’m going to Mark Bittman’s restaurant this week — the kitchen that he started in the East Village where people pay according to their income. I’ll eat whatever they’re serving. One restaurant that I like a lot is il Buco Alimentari & Vineria. I love going there. They have a particular salad that I adore. It’s always so crisp, and they have wonderful pasta dishes.
Q: What are some foods that you love?
A: Fortunately, I like a lot of very simple foods. I like vegetables. I like eggs. I like cheese. I do eat some ultra-processed foods. But not a lot of them. I don’t like ultra-processed foods that have a long list of ingredients. Most of those don’t taste good to me. I do really like vegetables. I like the crunch, the flavors, and the colors. That makes it easy to eat healthy.
But I recognize that I’m privileged. I weigh basically what I weighed when I was in high school. I don’t have a weight problem. And I have an enormous amount of sympathy for people who do. I consider myself extremely fortunate. Is it genetics? I have no idea. My father died of a heart attack at the age of 47. He was an obese three-pack-a-day smoker. It’s hard to know where genetics fits into this.
Q: Do you have any favorite treats or desserts?
A: Ice cream. When I’m at home in New York City, I try to find ginger ice cream, which I like very much. It’s hard to find. But when I find it, I buy it. And then my partner and I make homemade vanilla ice cream in Ithaca. It’s only three or four ingredients. It’s ruined other ice creams for me because a lot of commercial ice creams have all these emulsifiers in them that keep the ice cream sticking together. Real ice cream completely falls apart if it’s left at room temperature and not eaten right away. It separates and liquefies. But I like that. I think it tastes better and has a better texture than the commercial ice creams that have emulsifiers. I like ice cream without the emulsifiers.
Q: What about snacks?
A: I like corn chips. Not too salty. Some corn chips are ultra-processed, although most are not. The ones I like are Wegmans. They only have a few ingredients — just corn, oil, and salt basically. I also like candy, particularly See’s Candies. The one See’s candy store in New York is just a couple blocks away from me. I normally get the peanut brittle. Sometimes the lollipops. I can have these things in the house and not feel like I have to eat all of them all at once. Not everyone can do that.
Q: Can you tell us about your new book?
A: It’s called What to Eat Now. It’s the updated edition of What to Eat, which was published 20 years ago. It’s a completely rewritten book. I thought it was going to be a six-month project, and it ended up taking me four years because so much has changed in grocery stores. There’s been a huge turnover in products. For example, “functional waters” that contain vitamins, minerals, cannabis, supplements, and other things have replaced Coca-Cola and plain water. Plant milks are new. The only plant milk that existed 20 years ago was soy milk. Now there are tons of others. Plant-based meats did not exist 20 years ago — at least not in the way that they do now.
Q: What is one takeaway from the book?
A: It’s not a book about personal diets. It’s a book about how to think about food issues. I think what to eat now boils down to eat food, not too much, mostly plants.
Q: Do you take any supplements?
A: I don’t take supplements because I eat a healthy diet. I don’t think I need them. But two out of three Americans take supplements. They make people feel better — and it’s hard to argue with that. Life is tough. If all it takes is a supplement to make you feel better, then I’m not going to argue with that. I used to be much more upset about supplements. But now it’s clear to me that they make people feel better. Whether that’s because they’re doing something or because they’re a placebo, it’s hard to know.
But I don’t trust what’s in them. There’s so much evidence that what the label says isn’t what’s actually in them. Many studies have found that a remarkable percentage of supplements do not actually contain what’s listed on their labels. I don’t want to put something in my body if I don’t know what’s in it. And there are things in supplements that are not supposed to be there — that’s what so many studies have found. It’s not true of all supplements. But it’s very hard to know which ones are OK and which ones are not. So I don’t take any of them.
Q: Do you have any advice for our readers?
A: Eating healthfully in today’s society is very difficult because you’re fighting an entire food industry on your own— and that industry is trying to sell you the most profitable, least healthy foods available. But one thing you can do is read food labels. There’s a lot of information on them. If you’re looking at a packaged food and you can’t recognize the ingredients, or if you can’t purchase the ingredients at a supermarket, then it’s ultra-processed. There are certain ingredients that are indicators of ultra-processed foods. That would be color additives, flavor additives, and emulsifiers such as mono and diglycerides, polysorbates and carrageenan, and texturizers such as agar. I always read food labels. If something has a lot of artificial additives and ingredients that I don’t recognize, then I’m not going to eat it.
