Author: Kiki Aranita

  • Kombucha for your face: A Phoenixville fermenter transforms her bubbly brew into skincare products

    Kombucha for your face: A Phoenixville fermenter transforms her bubbly brew into skincare products

    While you may be familiar with kombucha’s benefits for your gut, one brewer is determined to show that the beverage and its byproducts can also make for excellent skincare.

    Phoenixville-based Olga Sorzano, 49, the owner and brewer behind decade-old Baba’s Brew as well as a chef and culinary instructor, has an expansive, multifaceted career — but all her varied interests are united by one thing: fermentation. Her newest venture is A Culture Factory, a line of kombucha-infused skincare products that ranges from toners and masks to scrubs and serums.

    Olga Sorzano, owner of Baba’s Brew of Phoenixville, holding a scoby in the brewing room, Wednesday, December 10, 2025.

    “Our skin is alive. Most skincare is like Wonder Bread, designed for shelf-stability, but what if it could be like a beautiful, artisanal loaf of sourdough, which is living and nourishing? It feeds you with a living culture,” said Sorzano.

    “As a chef, I want to feed you. And I have a chef’s approach to the skin as well. My great-grandmother and grandmother didn’t have all these [store-bought] solutions. They had lard and they would put it on their elbows. And kombucha vinegar on their skin. If they had berries leftover from making jam, they’d mix it with yogurt for a face mask.”

    Sorzano‘s kombucha company generates large amounts of scoby, or the mother culture used as a kombucha starter. “It’s loaded with all these enzymes and I was thinking, how awesome to use some surplus scoby and turn it into face masks.”

    Many ingredients from Baba’s Brew — like turmeric, which Sorzano also ferments — make it into A Culture Factory’s products, too, along with tallow from Breakaway Farms in Mount Joy, which Sorzano renders, refines, and blends with green coffee oil for a bright yellow eye butter.

    Paying tribute to Baba

    “Baba” means grandmother in Russian. Sorzano’s kombucha company, in both its branding and its recipes, is an homage to her great-grandmother, who raised Sorzano in the town of Barnaul, Siberia (close to the Mongolian border) when she was very young.

    “I would say, ‘Baba, my belly hurts,’ and she would say, ‘Have some kombucha.’ Or I would say, “My leg hurts,’ and she would also say, ‘Have some kombucha,’ ” said Sorzano with a laugh. She grew up thinking kombucha was everywhere, that everyone had access to it, and that it was a balm for all ills.

    If Sorzano’s Baba made kombucha that over-fermented, “she would put it on her skin as a toner.” This was a beauty tip that has followed Sorzano her entire life, brewing as an idea for years until finally blooming into a business concept.

    Olga Sorzano, owner of Baba’s Brew, Phoenixville, on Wednesday, December 10, 2025. She is shown in a portrait as a child with her great-grandmother.

    Fermentation, and the patience it demands, has long been a part of Sorzano’s family. To survive the long, bitter winters, the women in Sorzano’s family fermented everything they grew in their garden. “When I tell people about my childhood, they think I grew up in the 1700s,” she joked. “We foraged, we would go on mushroom hunts, we’d have a big cabbage day where several families would get together, chop cabbage, and preserve it for the winter.”

    Baba’s Brew uses organic, fair-trade tea and sugar as the base for its kombuchas, but otherwise all its ingredients are local, like plums from Frecon Farms, blueberries from Hamilton, N.J., and honey from Swarmbustin’ Honey. They also brew many one-off, seasonal kombuchas, with ingredients like black currants, which frequently show up on Sorzano’s doorstep, brought by small farmers.

    Olga Sorzano, owner of Baba’s Brew, with brewer Sarah Jagiela in the brewing room in Phoenixville on Wednesday, December 10, 2025.

    Sorzano came to the U.S. in 2000 as an exchange student with Future Farmers of America after receiving a doctorate in veterinary medicine in Moscow. She worked on a dairy farm in Nebraska for a year, milking cows and doing other farm work, then moved to Florida, met her husband, and when he was offered a job in Philly, moved to the area. She enrolled at the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College and applied her veterinary school-informed chemistry knowledge to cooking.

    “I found cooking very easy, because to me, everything is about chemical reactions,” she said. Cooking eventually led to her opening Baba’s Brew, the spark of which was born at a fermentation festival, where she realized there was a community of people in the U.S. fermenting single ingredients, just as her Baba had. In a sense, she found her own culture, through cultures.

    Olga Sorzano, owner of Baba’s Brew, in Phoenixville, Wednesday, December 10, 2025.

    A Culture Factory skincare launched this month and shares its name with the tasting room where Sorzano hosts private events and teaches cooking and fermentation classes (such as making your own kimchi or mastering basic cooking skills). “It’s where I bring people in and teach them to cook but focus on techniques like how to season or layer flavors,” said Sorzano.

    An assortment of kombucha beverage flavors by Baba’s Brews, a Phoenixville, company, Wednesday, December 10, 2025.

    Like the notions of producing fermentation “mothers” and the actual mothers in Sorzano’s family who treated every ailment with kombucha, Sorzano’s life has been threaded with yet another motif: the squirrel. She constantly “squirrels” ingredients away to ferment them.

    The logo for Baba’s Brew is a squirrel because “Baba’s nickname was Belka [the Russian word for ”squirrel”]. And when we moved into this brewery, we had a squirrel infestation and we had to call animal control to remove them from the attic. And when we moved to our farmhouse, we had a flying squirrel infestation. I safely captured and released all 18 of them,” said Sorzano, proudly.

    The tasting room is adjacent to the now-squirrel-free brewery in which Baba’s Brew produces 4,000 liters of kombucha per week. There, along with Baba’s Brew’s eight kombuchas on tap, you can now purchase Sorzano’s handmade skincare products, as carefully and locally sourced as the fruit that goes into her kombuchas.

  • Mod Spuds, a monthlong jacket potato pop-up in South Philly, is the latest from chef Ange Branca

    Mod Spuds, a monthlong jacket potato pop-up in South Philly, is the latest from chef Ange Branca

    Diner traffic doesn’t usually peak on Monday evenings, but there was a long line of patrons waiting to get inside Comfort & Floyd at just that time this week. They poured into the South Philly luncheonette’s diminutive space, quickly filling its 16 seats and every inch of standing room. They were eager to taste Ange Branca’s take on English jacket potatoes: enormous russet potatoes baked until the skin is dark and shatteringly crisp, with a fluffy interior that’s splayed open and filled with heaps of baked beans, shredded cheese, thin-sliced beef, chili con carne, or jackfruit.

    Unlike its American cousin, the baked potato, the English jacket potato is not a side dish, but a full meal in a bowl.

    Clockwise from top left, Mod Spuds’ Bollywood spud, Malaysian spud, classic spud, and Philly cheesesteak spud.

    While Branca’s Bella Vista restaurant Kampar remains under construction after a February fire, Branca has started Mod Spuds, a monthlong residency running twice a week at Comfort & Floyd, located on the corner of 11th and Wharton.

    Southeast Asian twists on the comfort food of the ’90s seem to be having a moment — Mod Spuds pops up in the same month as the debut of Manong, Chance Anies’ Filipino interpretation of an Outback Steakhouse. It’s another instance of a chef centering a specific story from a moment in their life as the animating theme of a concept.

    In Branca’s case, she survived on jacket potatoes while studying at university in Edinburgh.

    She retells the story of this era in her life through global flavors found in Philadelphia. There’s a Philly cheesesteak spud with hot pepper relish; a Bollywood spud with chicken tikka masala; the Nacho, with chorizo, pico de gallo, and salsa verde; a Happy Jack spud with barbecue jackfruit; and one more familiar to Branca’s devotees — a Malaysian spud with beef rendang, sambal, and ulam (a fresh herb blend). The classic Mod Spud is pulled directly from Branca’s university days, topped with chili con carne and Heinz baked beans that British chef Sam Jacobson from Stargazy helped her source.

    Branca has a particular way of eating jacket potatoes. “I dig right into the middle, scooping all the way down so I can get a little bit of each topping and a little bit of the potato.” Once she has scraped the toppings and potato from its skin, or jacket, she’ll pick it up like a taco and eat it.

    Each jacket potato goes for $15. All offerings are gluten-free. Diners may also build their own spud ($8 for the base, $3 for each vegetable topping, $5 for each meat topping).

    Wash it all down with an excellent and very fizzy homemade root beer ($8) from Kampar server and fermentation specialist Rachel Ore. (Make it a float with Turkey Hill vanilla ice cream for an extra $5.) Ore is behind Kampar’s nonalcoholic soda program. For this one, she used sarsaparilla root, birch bark, licorice root, galangal root, a little bit of cinnamon, mint, and some vanilla. The brew takes four days to fully ferment and creates an extremely bubbly beverage — sort of like if root beer married kombucha.

    Branca hopes the fast-casual concept will have legs beyond this month’s pop-up and that its slick, retro, Jetsons-esque branding will have wide appeal. Other than the rendang on the Malaysian spud, Mod Spuds marks a significant departure from anything that has ever been served at Kampar.

    “I want to see if people love this, and if they do, I will keep it going,” she said.

    Mod Spuds runs through December at Comfort & Floyd, 1301 S. 11th St., 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesdays.

  • Mawn makes the New York Times’ best restaurant dishes list

    Mawn makes the New York Times’ best restaurant dishes list

    Once again, Mawn has garnered national attention, months after chef-owner Phila Lorn earned the James Beard Foundation’s Emerging Chef award and Food & Wine’s Best New Chef designation.

    This time, a single dish is in the spotlight. The New York Times named the Southeast Asian BYOB noodle house’s banh chow salad on its annual list of Best Restaurant Dishes We Ate Across the U.S.

    It’s a dish that Craig LaBan also praised in his 2023 review of Mawn: “You can taste the pride in those memories in dishes like the banh chow salad, savory coconut milk-turmeric crepes, not unlike crispy Vietnamese banh xeo, but cradled wet in a bowl already dressed with fish sauce beneath a flavorful pile of herbs, sprouts, chicken, and shrimp.”

    NYT food reporter Brett Anderson extolled the salad’s savory coconut rice crepe for being “as lacily crisp as a Parmesan tuile on the outside, and plumped by ground chicken and shrimp within.”

    He also notes that the “tangle of soft lettuces and what the menu calls ‘backyard herbs’ bring a lot to the plate: levity, structure and the thrown-together appearance of everyday Cambodian American home cooking, only with a chef’s attention to details.”

    The praise also comes on the heels of LaBan’s review of Phila and Rachel Lorn’s sophomore restaurant, Sao, which feels as deeply personal as Mawn, he writes, but focuses on seafood instead of noodle dishes.

    Mawn’s banh chow salad is the only Philadelphia dish on the national list, sharing a place with other picks from around the country, like a chaas aguachile from Mirra in Chicago, an ode to Ben’s Chili Bowl from Kwame Onwuachi’s Dogon in D.C., and a lamb neck pie from Little Beast in Seattle.

  • Where to feast on seven fishes (or seven other things) this holiday season

    Where to feast on seven fishes (or seven other things) this holiday season

    The feast of the seven fishes, or festa dei sette pesci, has its roots in post-World War II immigration to America, when Southern Italians imported the tradition of La Vigilia — a Christmas Eve feast with no meat. La Vigilia, with its traditional consumption of baccalà, spaghetti alle vongole, and vegetables, has adapted to what we know here as an hourslong dinner with seven (more or less) fish dishes, a number that may refer to the seven sacraments.

    But the feast of the seven fishes has undergone another evolution. It is now readily embraced by chefs who specialize in other cuisines, and who sometimes take the emphasis off fish. Like Christmas itself, the feast of the seven fishes has in many cases been shifted away from its religious origins, and they now also frequently occur several days prior to Christmas Eve.

    Reservations have been going quickly for these elaborate holiday meals, and some are already sold out, like the feast at Fiorella (you can add yourself to the waitlist). Here are 12 restaurants in Philly serving special menus, celebrating the feast of seven whatevers (mostly fishes). This list isn’t comprehensive, so if you miss out on one of these reservations, keep your eye out on Philly restaurants’ Instagram pages for other feasting opportunities.

    Bastia

    Chef Tyler Akin will be serving a Sardinian-inflected feast of the seven fishes at Bastia on Dec. 21 and 22 for $125 per person, with an optional $85 beverage pairing. “We are really excited about the dishes, especially the malloreddus with pesto Genovese, swordfish, and gremolata; these are tiny Sardinian gnocchi that is a mainstay of the holidays.” Akin also promises squid ink risotto with blue crab, Calabrian chili butter, and bottarga — a dish “which truly tastes like the sea,” he said — as well as oysters with house sun-dried gooseberry mignonette. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

    1401 E. Susquehanna Ave., 267-651-0269, bastiafishtown.com

    Bistro Romano

    Bistro Romano is offering two seven fishes set menu options: one for people who want all the fish (“seven fishes tasting menu”), and others who may want to partake in the festivities but are fish-averse (“pasta & turf tasting menu”). For those who are all about the fish, the dinner commences with frutti di mare, leads into pastas like lobster ravioli and fettuccine with bay scallops and baby shrimp, crescendoes with swordfish and branzino, and ends on a tiramisu finale. For those who are anti-fish, expect veal, New York strip steak, sausage rigatoni, and bucatini with duck ragu. Both menus are $89 per person and do not include tax or gratuity. They are only offered on Christmas Eve, when Bistro Romano’s a la carte menu is otherwise not available. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

    120 Lombard St., 215-925-8880, bistroromano.com

    Chef Joe Cicala sautés blue crabs as he shows how to make spaghetti alla chitarra with crab at his restaurant, Cicala at the Divine Lorraine, in Philadelphia on Thursday, July 23, 2020.

    Cicala

    This is the first year that Cicala will be serving a seven fishes dinner. “Angela and I believe Christmas Eve is more fun and exciting compared to Christmas Day so we usually close in order to give our staff (and ourselves) the ability to spend it with our families,” said chef Joe Cicala. “However, this year we completely forgot to turn off the reservations and when we went to do so, it turned out that we were almost fully booked. So it looks like we are staying open this year.” Cicala’s entire a la carte menu will be available on Christmas Eve, along with a “menu fisso” of five courses utilizing seven different fish (price TBD). They are still working out the full details, but reservations can be made on Resy.

    699 N. Broad St., 267-886-9334, cicalarestaurant.com

    Heavy Metal Sausage Co. owners Patrick Alfiero (left) and Melissa Pellegrino prepare for the Thursday night trattoria dinner on Thursday, Nov. 17, 2022.

    Heavy Metal Sausage

    South Philly’s Heavy Metal Sausage leans hard into seven fishes, so much so that for years they’ve been hosting feasts of “more than seven fishes.” This year, there are five nights of such extravagant dinners, featuring “more than 12 dishes, more than seven fishes,” from Dec. 18 to 22, with two seatings per night (6 and 8:30 p.m.). A seat at this bonanza goes for $150 per person; gluten and seafood allergies cannot be accommodated, and tickets cannot be refunded or rescheduled. Bookings can be made on Square.

    1527 W. Porter St., no phone, heavymetalsausage.com

    Yun Fuentes and R.J. Smith team up for a Caribbean approach to the Feast of the Seven Fishes at Bolo.

    Bolo

    This holiday season, Bolo chef Yun Fuentes is welcoming chef R.J. Smith of Ocho Supper Club for a one-night-only Siete Mares, a Caribbean interpretation of the feast of the seven fishes. It will be 7 p.m. on Dec. 16 for $150 per person. Expect hamachi ceviche with scotch bonnet-passion fruit salsa and uni, lobster curry rellenos, red snapper escovitch, and an island-inspired version of surf and turf, or mar y montaña: roasted suckling pig and seafood rice with clams, calamari, and squid ink sofrito. There will also be an Ocho Happy Hour in Bolo’s first-floor rum bar from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Reservations can be made on OpenTable.

    2025 Sansom St., 267-639-2741, bolophl.com

    Farina Di Vita

    Queen Village sandwich shop Farina Di Vita is running a seven fishes catering menu until Dec. 21 at 4 p.m. or until they sell out of their fried smelts, jumbo lump crab cakes, mussel gravy, salmon piccata, shrimp cocktail, Thai chili salmon, and calamari salad. Get them all or get them a la carte. Orders must be placed over the phone (ask to speak with Jason).

    250 Catharine St., 267-639-5185, instagram.com/farinadivita

    Vernick Fish

    Vernick Fish will be celebrating the feast of the seven fishes on Dec. 23 and 24 with a five-course, family-style menu for $195 per person. It includes tuna crudo, bay scallop crudo, and the Tuscan flatbread schiacciata, with osetra caviar, to start. Expect octopus skewers, fritto misto, white mussels, squid ink spaghetti, and whole roasted branzino with blue crab. A la carte options will be available at the bar. Reservations can be made on OpenTable.

    1 N. 19th St., 215-419-5055, vernickfish.com

    Tulip Pasta and Wine Bar

    Chef Jason Cichonski’s Tulip Pasta and Wine Bar will be serving their seven fishes dinner on Dec. 22 and 23 for $100 per person with an optional $55 wine pairing. The menu includes tuna carpaccio, mussel toast, prawns, baked clams, crab ravioli, squid ink pasta, black bass, and fried chocolate ravioli with gingerbread ice cream for dessert. Reservations can be made on Resy.

    2302 E. Norris St., 267-773-8189, tulippasta.com

    The “snack” course of Messina Social Club’s Feast of the Seven Fishes tasting menu in 2024.

    Messina Social Club

    Semi-private Messina Social Club, also by Jason Cichonski, with chef Eddie Konrad, is offering a six-course seven fishes tasting menu on Dec. 21, 22, and 23 for $135 per person. “There will be plays on traditional dishes, like last year we did an octopus bolognese and a series of ‘snacks.’ We always do more than seven actual fishes,” said Konrad. For dessert, Konrad has been working on a “terrine-a-misu,” consisting of ladyfingers in an “amaro-based soak that I stack, layer, press, and cut like a cake and serve with a whipped mascarpone.” Reservations can be made on Resy.

    1533 S. 10th St., 267-928-4152, messinasocialclub.com

    Fork

    Fork’s feast of the seven fishes occurs only on Christmas Eve. It’s $125 per person, not inclusive of tax and a 20% service charge. Courses include brandade toast, crispy Prosecco-battered smelts, two handmade pastas, and a choice of a family-style entree for two, like a whole roasted branzino. There will also be additional starter options for $22 each, such as fluke crudo with a brown butter pear vinaigrette and half a dozen oysters on the half shell. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

    306 Market St., 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com

    Liz Grothe speaks to guests at the friends and family opening of Scampi in Queen Village.

    Scampi

    Scampi in Queen Village may be named for one of those potential fishes, but chef Liz Grothe’s signature move at the holidays — this is the third year — is to serve a feast of the seven pastas, featuring lots of fishes. The menu is available on Dec. 23 (Dec. 22’s dinner is sold out), with dinner starting at 6:30 p.m. Reservations must be made via Google form, which cautions, “Do not let the lucky number seven fool you, this is at least a nine-course dinner and it takes about 2.5 hours. This is as ritzy as it gets for us.” It’s $150 per person and BYOB. Menu includes Grothe’s Caesar toast, lorighittas (small Sardinian ring-shaped pastas) with calamari and peas, spaghetti gamberi crudo (raw shrimp), smoked trout culurgiones, clam chowder gnocchi, and tiramisu for dessert.

    617 S. Third St., no phone, scampiphilly.com

    Percy owner Seth Kligerman, Percy chef Jack Smith, and Fishtown Pickle owners Niki Toscani and Mike Sicinski.

    Fishtown Pickle Project x Percy

    Fishtown Pickles will be hosting its feast of the seven pickles for the fifth year on Dec. 16 with two seatings, at 5 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. It will be held at Kensington restaurant Percy, which recently rebranded as a diner, and thus this will be a “Diner Edition” of the celebration. Tickets are $105 per person, with $10 per ticket going to Sharing Excess. The menu is a collaboration between Percy chef Jack Smith and Fishtown Pickle Project co-founder Mike Sicinski. There will be a Hanukkah nod of a deviled egg and latke with smoked fish and pickle slaw, pumpkin soup with winter squash kimchi, corned pork belly with sweet onion pickle glaze, fermented red cabbage kraut and rye bread gremolata, antipasto made with Fishtown Pickle Dip, and a pickle-brined chicken schnitzel. In Percy’s Sound Lounge, there will be a Pickle Sundae Bar with wet walnuts (made with fermented honey), tea-pickled golden raisins, hot fudge, whipped sour cream, and fermented fruit. If the main event sells out, you can still participate in the Pickle Sundae Bar by purchasing tickets on Fishtown Pickle Project’s website.

    Percy Diner and Bar, 1700 N. Front St., 215-975-0020, percyphl.com

  • Emmett named one of Esquire’s Best New Restaurants

    Emmett named one of Esquire’s Best New Restaurants

    Emmett, the Kensington restaurant serving modern Levantine cuisine, has found itself on a coveted list: Esquire’s Best New Restaurants. It is the only Philadelphia establishment recognized on the list. The 30-seat restaurant is already perpetually busy, but since the list was announced Dec. 1, chef-owner Evan Snyder, 33, has seen an uptick in reservations on OpenTable.

    He had been sitting on the news — or at least, some suspicion of it — for the last two weeks, since he received an invitation from Esquire for the list’s unveiling party in New York. The list was compiled by editor Jeff Gordinier and writers Joshua David Stein and Amethyst Ganaway; Stein was responsible for Emmett’s inclusion. He visited twice this past year and in Emmett’s segment of the article praised its rye tartlet filled with American wagyu tartare, sesame madeleine with baharat butter, corn agnolotti with tahina, and duck breast.

    The rye-wagyu tartlet at Emmett, 161 W. Girard Ave., in Philadelphia, Pa., on Thursday, March 27, 2025.

    Snyder was particularly delighted by Stein’s focus on these menu stalwarts. “The tartlet and madeleine are staples that will probably never come off the menu, as well as the dry-aged duck, which we age for 21 days, quite a bit longer than most people age ducks. The agnolotti with tahina is a set that changes micro-seasonally. These are all the things he enjoyed,” said Snyder.

    Sesame Madeleines with Ras al Hanout butter at Emmett, 161 W. Girard Ave., in Philadelphia, Pa., on Thursday, March 27, 2025.

    Emmett, named after Snyder’s 2-year-old son, opened Jan. 28, after he had run the concept as a pop-up for two years prior.

    The outside of Emmett, 161 W. Girard Ave., in Philadelphia, Pa., on Thursday, March 27, 2025.

    Snyder is most thrilled that the recognition gives his team “a shine.”

    “It’s the most important thing to me that [my team] is proud of what they’re doing and where they work.”

    Emmett, 161 W. Girard Ave., 215-207-0161, emmettphilly.com

  • Revolution Taco to close in Rittenhouse, replaced by a Vietnamese Cajun restaurant

    Revolution Taco to close in Rittenhouse, replaced by a Vietnamese Cajun restaurant

    After 10 years in Rittenhouse, Revolution Taco, a fast-casual restaurant whose menu blends global influences from chorizo to Peking duck to Korean BBQ beef, plans to close early next month.

    Owner Carolyn Nguyen, 41, grew the business from Street Food Philly and Taco Mondo, two stalwarts of Philly’s new age food truck scene, which had its heyday from 2012 to 2016. The two trucks, which Nguyen co-owned and operated, vended regularly on 33rd Street at Drexel University’s campus — a street once referred to as Philly’s “Food Truck Mecca” — and at the now-defunct Night Markets, once run by The Food Trust.

    Revolution Taco’s Jan. 6. closure isn’t goodbye for Nguyen, who has leased the space at 2015 Walnut St. for another three years. Rather, Nguyen is returning to her roots: For the first time in her two decades of working as a chef in Philadelphia, Nguyen will be cooking the Cajun Vietnamese food of her Louisiana youth.

    Also for the first time, her name will be on the door of her business. She aims to open Carolyn’s Modern Vietnamese within weeks of Revolution Taco’s closure. “It will combine my Vietnamese heritage, my Cajun upbringing, and the global flavors that I’ve come to love and enjoy to cook through my career,” said Nguyen.

    “Growing up, we always had seafood boils when crabs and crawfish were in season. They were a major part of my childhood. We ate boudin — a stuffed rice sausage with pork — lots of curries, and a lot of chicken. My family had a little chicken farm just for our relatives, with around 20 to 30 chickens,” said Nguyen. “As a child I had so much curry chicken, but I’ll modify it a little [for the new restaurant], along with thịt kho, a braised pork with egg that I’ll use pork belly for. And there will be slow-cooked grits.”

    Nguyen speaks both English and Vietnamese with a soft but distinct Southern twang. She was born and raised in Amelia, Louisiana. “It’s a very small town with a population of around 2,000 people. When I lived there, around a third of the population consisted of Vietnamese people,” she said.

    Nguyen came to Philly in 2007, intending a visit to her sister here to be a stopover on her way to New York. But she never left and ended up attending the Arts Institute for culinary school. After graduating, she worked for Susanna Foo in Center City, and then at Nectar and Maia with Patrick and Terence Feury. When Terence went to work for Ellen Yin at Fork, she followed as a line cook from 2013 to 2014 and worked closely with Andrew Wood (now the chef at Le Virtù). “He was a big part of my cooking journey,” she said.

    During a catering stint in the early 2010s, “I was watching a lot of Food Network and The Great Food Truck Race and I knew I wanted to open one.” Together with a former business partner, she leased the truck that would become Street Food Philly. The menu was a conglomeration of many influences, featuring everything from tacos to the handmade pastas Nguyen mastered at Fork.

    Street Food Philly, run by restaurant vets Carolyn “Mama C” Nguyen and Michael Sultan. TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer

    These experiences will feed the menu at Carolyn’s Modern Vietnamese, where Nguyen is planning on making a curry duck with handmade gnocchi.

    To cook from her roots is something Nguyen has long wanted to do, “but I never felt the timing was right. Then a lot happened in my personal life and I was just like, the timing is never going to be perfect, it’s now or never.”

    And yet, perhaps Nguyen’s timing is perfect. Philly is having a moment where chefs, especially Southeast Asian ones in their 30s and early 40s, are reflecting on their childhoods. With restaurants like Manong, Baby’s Kusina, and Rice and Sambal retelling their chef-owners’ American upbringings — mingled with Southeast Asian flavors and ingredients — Philadelphia is primed for Nguyen’s story. And the Mid-Atlantic as a region may be on the cusp of a much deeper exploration of Cajun Vietnamese flavors, as chef Kevin Tien has done in D.C. with Moon Rabbit.

    Roast duck tacos from Revolution Taco at 2015 Walnut St.

    Nguyen returned to Louisiana last month after a many-year absence and spoke to her family about her plans. “The excitement, enthusiasm, and support from family and relatives,” coupled with Ellen Yin’s encouragement, solidified her resolve to make a change to her Rittenhouse business.

    Minimal work is required to revamp Revolution Taco’s existing space. The upstairs dining room will receive a paint job and new decor, and the front counter and dining area will be reconfigured for table service. Some Revolution Taco staff will remain at Carolyn’s Modern Vietnamese, and others will be offered positions at Revolution Taco’s kiosk at the Comcast Center’s concourse, which will continue to operate as Revolution Taco Express.

    “Revolution Taco has been my home for the past 10 years. But I’m looking forward to being more creative with the food and being vulnerable with the way I cook, not knowing how people will receive it,” she said.

  • Manong, a Filipino-American steakhouse from Tabachoy owner Chance Anies, opens in Fairmount

    Manong, a Filipino-American steakhouse from Tabachoy owner Chance Anies, opens in Fairmount

    Fairmount will soon get an interpretation of Outback Steakhouse— that is, if the chain restaurant existed in a Filipino alternate universe. Chance Anies’ Manong, a word that means “elder brother” in Ilocano, the Filipino dialect of Anies’ paternal family, opens to the public on December 5.

    Anies, the chef-owner behind beloved Bella Vista BYOB Tabachoy, took over the former Tela’s space at 1833 Fairmount Ave. earlier this year. It’s a huge departure from Tabachoy’s minuscule footprint of 985 square feet, and of course, from its origins as a small food truck, which Anies still owns. “Manong’s kitchen is bigger than Tabachoy,” said Anies.

    Chef Chance Anies posed for a portrait at Manong on Thursday, Nov. 20, 2025 in Philadelphia.

    The dining room, which Anies had entirely renovated, seats over ninety people, including nine at its ample bar, at seats painted school bus yellow. There are globe lamps and custom-built booths, backed by forest green shiplap, and resembling the same leather-esque banquettes of a throwback, middle class steakhouse. There are also booths lining the windows, like in every diner movie that has ever been made. The dining room feels industrial, thanks to its exposed ductwork and concrete floor with veined cracks.

    The front-of-house and back-of-house staff numbers around 28 people, unlike the eight, mostly part-timers that run Tabachoy.

    Manong is a celebration of Anies’ ‘90s youth. Walk in through its enormous glass doors, above which their offerings are painted in orange cowboy-style font (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Coffee, Bottle Shop), and on your left is a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles arcade game, procured from “an arcade guy in Michigan.” At Manong’s photo shoot for this article, Anies carried around a paper sack filled with Beanie Babies, given to him by his mother-in-law, as he tried to decide where to put them as decorations.

    The Bloomin’ Shroom at Manong on Thursday, Nov. 20, 2025 in Philadelphia.

    As a riff on Outback’s blooming onion, on Manong’s menu there will be a blooming mushroom, consisting of crispy enoki mushrooms tossed in cornstarch, garlic, and powdered, preserved lemon peel and arranged in a pressed glass frilled dish, mimicking a blooming effect with a ramekin of salsa rosada (a mixture of vegan mayo and housemade banana ketchup) at its center. Their Dynamite Lumpia, stuffed with pork, jalapeños, and mozzarella are enormous crispy parcels, unlike Tabachoy’s small, delicate rolls. “They’re like if a jalapeño popper married a lumpia,” said Anies.

    The salad at Manong on Thursday, Nov. 20, 2025 in Philadelphia.

    Their house salad will feature a green goddess dressing made with canned bangus, or milkfish, a popular Filipino pantry ingredient. Anies is also making efforts to develop versions of Filipino stalwarts that are less processed, like pulverizing red rice yeast for his tocino, a sweet Filipino cured pork known for its bright red hue, typically synthetic in origin. “It’s crazy how red the red rice yeast is,” he said. “It’s like an all-natural Red 40.”

    The squash at Manong on Thursday, Nov. 20, 2025 in Philadelphia.

    Their Balong Burger — “Balong” is a term of endearment meaning “my boy” or “my child” in Ilocano and what Anies’ mother calls him — has a bun that echoes the pillowy Filipino loaves called pandesal and fashioned into four conjoined pieces. “The bun is sort of like connected King’s Hawaiian rolls,” said Anies. A half-pound burger patty will be sandwiches between the sliced open buns, with an option to add another patty on. It will be served with housemade banana ketchup and white American cheese. “But not Cooper Sharp. We’re not fancy over here,” said Anies.

    To finish your meal, there will be homemade ube ice cream, fudgy in texture, and served in little metal dishes, along with a robust dessert menu of frozen treats like calamansi water ice.

    Unlike Tabachoy, Manong has a liquor license. Expect local beers on draft from Love City and Carbon Copy, breweries that Anies developed relationships with after vending with his food truck at them for years. But there will also be Filipino Kasama rum in cocktails and served with a bottle of San Miguel beer as a “Quezon City Wide,” a nod to Anies’ father’s birthplace. Bottles of the Filipino beers San Miguel and Red Horse, an extra-strong lager brewed by San Miguel, will also be available at the bar. “But they don’t export kegs. I guess we could pour the bottles into kegs to have them on draft,” joked Anies.

    And also unlike Tabachoy, where diners need to exit the front door, make a right, turn down an alley, and re-enter the building in order to go to the bathroom, Manong’s bathrooms (indeed there are now plural “bathrooms”) are accessed through the main dining room. One is papered with old magazine articles and Applebee’s-themed. The other is Outback-themed. And where did he procure the neon decor for each? “Don’t ask, don’t tell,” he responded.

    Manong, to start, will be open Wednesday to Sunday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. They will seat guests until 9:30 p.m. as their kitchen will close before the bar does, at 10:30 p.m. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

  • Center City has a new cutting-edge cocktail bar

    Center City has a new cutting-edge cocktail bar

    Static!, the follow-up bar from the owners of Fishtown cocktail lounge Next of Kin, opened Tuesday in the former Tria space in Washington Square West. A moody, dark wood-paneled space illuminated by large paper globe lanterns, the 35-seat bar is an even slicker cousin to its Fishtown counterpart and brings to Center City cocktails concocted by some of the nerdiest, most process-driven bartenders in Philly.

    Kyle Darrow and John Grubb, two of the partners behind Next of Kin, signed the lease on the 12th and Spruce spot in June.

    The menu is divided into four styles of cocktails — shaken down, shaken up, stirred down, and stirred up — plus non-alcoholic options, wine, and local beers. All cocktails range from $15 to $17. There is almost no food, save for a sweet and spicy nut mix, olives, and soft pretzels from Center City Pretzel, served with whole-grain mustard. “We aren’t chefs,” Darrow said in an interview earlier this year, forecasting the light-snack menu.

    Cocktails ready for pickup at Static in the Washington Square West neighborhood on Monday, Nov. 24, 2025.

    Static! operates independently of Next of Kin, but there are echoes of its sensibilities, said Darrow, who has stayed mostly hands-off in the development of the new menu.

    General manager Jared Ridgeway is the mind behind the cocktails here. There are more balanced riffs on familiar classics, and just a few directly transplanted from Next of Kin, such as their Clover Club and Smoke and Barrels, which blends rye whiskey, mezcal, amaro, and cherries. Ridgeway’s amaretto sour also updates a classic. “If you put 2 full ounces of amaretto in a drink, it’s overwhelmingly sweet,” Ridgeway said. “The whole point of cocktails is a fine balance, so I learned a little sneaky trick from [Oyster House bartender] Resa [Mueller] to put a little reposado tequila in to balance the sweetness of the Lazzaroni amaretto.”

    There are also cocktails entirely unique to Static! “Top of the World is a nice little seasonal play on incorporating apples, but with miso cream on top,” said Ridgeway. “It’s like an Irish cream topper where you get velvety silky foam on top versus a whipped cream.” The result has no perceptible bubbles and floats above a tart, bright, light-bodied cocktail.

    The Top of the World cocktail, with brandy, honey, apple, and miso cream, served at Static in the Washington Square West neighborhood on Monday, Nov. 24, 2025.

    Static!’s bartenders may not be chefs, but they’re performing no small amount of kitchen prep. Like Next of Kin’s signature cocktails, the components behind the bar here are extremely labor-intensive. The miso cream is made from whipping yellow miso with simple syrup and heavy cream. Similarly, Static!’s appletini involves infusing vodka in-house. “We’re really highlighting key ingredients, doing them a bit more justice,” said Ridgeway.

    The layout of the former wine bar remains the same, with a long bar and elevated loft with table seating. Most of the construction involved updating the plumbing, building out a back bar, and making the space conducive for an operation heavily dependent on ice.

    The Hawaii 7-5 cocktail with gin, lemon, hibiscus syrup and prosecco served at Static in the Washington Square West neighborhood on Monday, Nov. 24, 2025.

    Why the name — and the punctuation? “Static!” refers to the “good, positive, and palpable energy transitioning between people and a human interaction,” said Darrow. “It’s also about the static on the TV screen and that physical disruption of digital space.” The punctuation removes the stasis from “static.”

    The opening comes on the heels of Next of Kin’s high-profile September pop-up in Paris at the cocktail bar Mesures, which was attended by both French locals and “a dozen regulars from Philly who made the trip,” said Darrow.

    Static!, 1137 Spruce St., instagram.com/static_phl. Hours: 4 p.m. to midnight Monday through Wednesday, 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday, and 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Sunday.

    Guests drink in the second floor at Static in the Washington Square West neighborhood on Monday, Nov. 24, 2025.
  • Gobbler season is upon us

    Gobbler season is upon us

    The rest of the country may know gobblers as Thanksgiving leftover sandwiches, but here in Philly, they’re far more than that. Philly restaurants start serving gobblers long before Thanksgiving leftovers are on the horizon. The sandwiches are both a form of sculptural art — some of them defying gravity — as well as a month-long (or even two-month-long) Thanksgiving tailgate. Here are some places to explore Philly’s devotion to the sandwich.

    Porco’s Porchetteria

    Mercifully lighter than one might expect from the king of sandwiches, Porco’s Turketta Sammie, aka their riff on a gobbler, has its abundant fillings stuffed into a soft, slim brioche bun. It’s layered with slices of herbaceous smoked turkey breast, savory bread pudding (a fluffy take on stuffing), a thick slice of heirloom tomato, and a touch of green lettuce. It’s painted with a thin lacquer of cranberry mostarda and gently sauced with turkey gravy. Add Cooper Sharp and one of their aiolis (I love the roasted garlic aioli in the sandwich) for even more flavor. Pickup or delivery is available from their Washington Avenue window. The $16 gobbler is on the menu all November long; add-ons are $1 extra each.

    Small Oven Pastry Shop & Porco’s Porchetteria, 2204 Washington Ave., 215-545-2939, smallovenpastryshop.com

    The Liberty Kitchen turkey gobbler via delivery.

    Liberty Kitchen

    Liberty Kitchen may be located in Fishtown (and Chestnut Hill and University City), but their LK Gobbler ($23) tastes so very South Philly. It’s served on a crusty foot-long seeded hoagie roll and comes with a side of turkey gravy for dipping. It’s filled with sliced deli turkey and a sage stuffing speckled with spicy — but not too spicy — long hots and fried shallots. Instead of cranberry sauce, Liberty Kitchen’s version relies on a sour cherry spread for citrusy sparkle and dijonnaise for creaminess. It’s the perfect marriage of Thanksgiving dinner and a hoagie. I appreciate that it’s not piled too high — I’m never a fan of an unwieldy sandwich — and that its crusty roll squishes down nicely upon each bite.

    Liberty Kitchen, 1400 N. Front St., 215-309-2241, libertykitchenphl.com

    Triangle Tavern

    The vegan turkey gobbler sandwich from Triangle Tavern.

    Triangle Tavern’s gobbler ($17.50) truly tastes as if I had gone to my mother-in-law Phyllis’ for Thanksgiving dinner, fallen asleep, then woken up and made myself a sandwich with all the leftovers, including mashed potatoes. The Baker Street hoagie roll (barely) contains those potatoes, plus cranberry sauce, stuffing, and either vegan seitan turkey or actual roasted turkey. It is sealed in a generous layer of thick mushroom gravy and served with a pickle spear.

    Triangle Tavern, 1338 S. 10th St., 215-800-1992, triangletavernphilly.com

    Breezy’s Gobble Til’ You Wobble Hoagie

    Breezy’s Deli and Market

    The Gobble Til’ You Wobble Hoagie ($17) — made up of smoked turkey, cranberry mayo, sweet potato casserole, roasted Brussels sprouts, turkey gravy, crispy shallots, and balsamic reduction — is one of my absolute favorites on this list and more than any other, really makes me long for it to be Thanksgiving. Also the work of Porco’s owner Chad Durkin, who opened Breezy’s last year, the sandwich was piping hot and heavy when I picked it up. The sweet potato bound everything together beautifully, the sprouts are roasted until they’re wilted. The hoagie is creamy, hot, well-balanced, and you can really discern the different layers between the crusty seeded roll. There are some choices here: Select a 10-inch seeded long roll or a 4-inch wrap (regular or gluten-free); you can also add various meats, from roast beef to mortadella, as well as an array of cheeses.

    Breezy’s Deli and Market, 2235 Washington Ave., 215-305-4090, breezysdeli.com

    Dreamworld Bakes

    Dreamworld’s savory croissant riff on a gobbler, the I Should Call Her ($9) is a whole pastry stuffed with turkey, dashi gravy, cranberry sauce, and crowned with a handful of pancetta-flecked stuffing. It’s impossibly flaky and buttery on the outside, with the best bites of Thanksgiving dinner woven together inside.

    Dreamworld Bakes, 2400 Coral St., 856-390-0502, dreamworldbakes.com

    McCrossen’s Tavern

    This gobbler ($18) is the most classic of gobblers, and really one for the stuffing lovers. It’s basic and straightforward and very, very hefty but done well, with large, succulent chunks of roasted turkey on a hoagie roll with cornbread sausage stuffing and cranberry aioli, plus a creamy gravy for dipping both sandwich and the accompanying fries.

    McCrossen’s Tavern, 529 N. 20th St., 215-854-0923, mccrossens.com

    Other gobblers recommended by gobbler scholars

    It was no small feat, running around Philadelphia collecting gobblers. Admittedly, some gobblers eluded me. Middle Child Clubhouse only serves its Turkey Dip during the day (though it’s available at both locations). There are several others that I did not try firsthand, but came recommended by other gobbler scholars.

    Deli-style gobbler sandwich from Dolores’ 2Street.

    Inquirer reporter Tommy Rowan said that Dolores’ 2Street “hits every major food group, and then it hits the spot.” Theirs is a deli-style sandwich, served mostly cold, with thick slices of roasted turkey and cheddar cheese.

    “The little bit of warmth (and crunch) comes from the house-made stuffing, carefully crafted by owner Peter Miglino’s mother, Maria. It’s coupled with a nice tang from cranberry mayo and complemented by rings of raw white onion, a confetti of lettuce, and small slices of tomato on a Sarcone’s roll,” Rowan writes.

    The Finksgiving hoagie from Fink’s Hoagies in Tacony.

    Two years ago, Inquirer columnist Stephanie Farr sampled seven Philly-area Thanksgiving hoagies and sandwiches in a single day in the name of journalism. “I felt like a stuffed turkey afterward but I did waddle away with two favorites: the ‘Finksgiving’ from Fink’s Hoagies in Tacony and ‘The Bobbie’ from Capriotti’s, a Wilmington-based hoagie chain with locations in the Philly suburbs. Both hoagies had shredded turkey, tasty rolls that held up in the face of impossible odds, and the perfect ratio of turkey, cranberry sauce, and stuffing. The Finksgiving hoagie more fully intertwined the turkey and stuffing, whereas ‘The Bobbie’ layered them as separate ingredients.”

    Philly-based food influencer Amanda Barr recently went on her own gobbler crawl and was entranced by Zig Zag BBQ’s Gooblerr ($16), made of the “same smoked turkey that Zig Zag has year-round. It’s moist and delicious and a massive portion. It comes on a sesame-seeded burger bun with a base of sweet potato that contrasts with cranberry and savory turkey without making it sweet.” Barr also reports that the sandwich is cohesive, rather than unwieldy, and “you would definitely get everything in one bite.”

  • Did Michelin get it right? The Inquirer food team weighs in on its Philly picks.

    Did Michelin get it right? The Inquirer food team weighs in on its Philly picks.

    Last night, Michelin entered the Philadelphia dining scene for the first time. Three restaurants got a one-star rating: Friday Saturday Sunday, Provenance, and Her Place Supper Club. Another 31 got recognition from Michelin, as either a “selected” restaurant or a Bib Gourmand.

    So did the vaunted international arbiter of dining get it right in Philadelphia? Well, we have some notes. Restaurant critic Craig LaBan sat down with food reporters Michael Klein and Kiki Aranita, who both attended Tuesday night’s awards, to chat about what Michelin got right and what they missed.

    The Philadelphia chefs acknowledged at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.

    A night of stars and surprises

    Craig LaBan, restaurant critic: I was not surprised by the stingy amount of stars given, or even those who received them, but there were notable snubs, including in the value-oriented Bib Gourmands, where some of their choices were big, blatant misses. Vetri Cucina missing out on a deserved star might have been my biggest “oh boy” moment.

    Mike Klein, food reporter: I liked how Michelin seemed to ignore a lot of what we would consider “obvious” picks and seemed to look deeper than other outside groups. (I’m referring to the national magazines, which basically only amplify the local critics’ work.)

    Kiki Aranita, food reporter: I’m surprised that so many cheesesteak joints got recognition but almost no Asian places, save for Hiroki, Kalaya, and Royal Sushi & Izakaya. I feel like we’re more of a Vietnamese food town than a cheesesteak town, but you’d never guess it from looking at the Michelin Guide. I’m also surprised to see Hiroki recognized but not Ogawa. Based on my deep survey of omakases for The 76.

    Chef Marc Vetri (left) and Chad Williams, of Friday Saturday Sunday, during the cocktail hour, at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.

    CL: And the lack of attention to Mexican food! I’m thrilled for Carlos Aparicio at El Chingón, one of my longtime favorites — but that is one of the most exciting genres in Philly right now.

    MK: Maybe Michelin felt it needed to jump into the cheesesteak debate.

    CL: So cliché. And also, Dalessandro’s? C’mon! Angelo’s and Del Rossi’s belong, but I had a memorably bad cheesesteak at Dalessandro’s this spring that looked like the beef had been fed to a wood chipper before it was slapped it on my bun.

    Also, if we’re really talking about delving into Philly’s street-food sandwich cred — why not a special hoagie or roast pork place? John’s Roast Pork comes to mind. This felt like an obligatory street-food addition from inspectors with little background in Philly food.

    MK: My biggest surprise was that Jesse Ito’s omakase counter didn’t get a star (the izakaya got a Bib), and I suspect that was because the inspectors could not get in. Though “everyone” seems to put it on their best-of lists, Michelin apparently didn’t pull strings.

    Chef Jesse Ito and Mia Colona at the Michelin Guide announcements Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.

    CL: I also agree with Kiki on the subject of Asian restaurants, which are among our most exciting dining destinations: Vietnamese, Cambodian, Indonesian, and Chinese, of course. Mawn was a noticeable omission, but I suspect they simply didn’t put in the work to get a table, or wait for one at lunch. Sort of lazy, to be honest.

    Let’s talk about the snubs

    CL: On the subject of Royal Sushi & Izakaya, it’s clear to me from talking to Jesse, who’s seen a copy of the blurb they’re publishing, that they did not get into the omakase. Again, that seems like they just didn’t do the work required of a respected authority on fine dining. But, well, it’s just the first year. Also, a Bib is exactly the correct rating for the izakaya — and a great kudos for that side of the restaurant.

    MK: Snubs: Jean Georges. He wins everywhere. Why not here?

    CL: Why not JG? Because it’s not a good restaurant. I had one of my worst scouting meals of the summer there this year. The menu seems both dated and aimless and not well-executed. I had a fish dish with a strawberry-tahini sauce the color of Pepto-Bismol that I still shudder to remember.

    MK: Snubs: Nothing for Stephen Starr, who only has one one-star in his entire portfolio (Le Coucou). Wasn’t Barclay Prime even worth a Recommended?

    CL: I do think Barclay is the best steakhouse in Philly, and possibly Starr’s best, most consistent restaurant. But how often does Michelin recognize steakhouses? Barclay is less formulaic than most, but it’s less cheffy than your typical Michelin nod.

    Joe Beddia (from left), Greg Root, Nick Kennedy (rear), Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, and Roland Kassis with the Michelin Man at the Michelin Guide announcement Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.

    KA: Craig, are you at all surprised Kalaya didn’t get a Star?

    CL: Yes, I was a little surprised Kalaya didn’t get a star. It’s not really a tasting-menu place. But the flavors are so explosive, the personality in [chef] Nok [Suntaranon]’s cuisine is so vivid and distinct, it seems like a slam dunk, really. But it’s also a very big restaurant. Anything could have detracted from the experience — the service, the noise, whatever. I do think her cooking measures up to the criterion they’ve stated.

    What were you happy to see?

    KA: I did think they took an expansive view of independent, chef-driven restaurants.

    CL: I was surprised and thrilled with all the attention directed to Pietramala, our best vegan restaurant right now — and one of the best in all genres, period. The extra award for his pursuit of sustainability was spot on, because it is next-level.

    Ian Graye, of Pietramala earned a Green Star award at the Michelin Guide announcement event at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025, in Philadelphia.

    KA: I was absolutely thrilled by that. I also did point out to [chef] Ian [Graye] that his green star was made of plastic.

    MK: My hot take is that many of the Recommended restaurants are being poised for stars in the future, assuming they step it up. But hey: Vernick, Vetri, and Zahav? That I don’t get.

    KA: Mike, I agree — and that is how Recommended restaurants work. They show us what inspectors have on their radar.

    I think Michelin more than any other list or awards entity analyzes what is on the plate, and is it delicious? (Sure, we can argue about what is delicious — but it’s delicious to them at a particular time.) [The World’s] 50 Best does seem to celebrate restaurants with excellent PR, while James Beard [Awards] looks at many different aspects of a restaurant, to the detriment of delicious (at times).

    Hanna Williams looks on as husband Chad Williams and Lynette Brown-Sow FaceTime after the Michelin Guide awards Tuesday at the Kimmel Center.

    What would you like to see Michelin consider next year?

    KA: I would hope that they think about entering Chinatown.

    MK: To Kiki’s point: Nothing from Chinatown?

    KA: Let’s really drive that home. Nothing from Chinatown but three cheesesteak places?

    CL: For the next guide, I’d love them to better explore Philly’s traditional sandwich culture beyond cheesesteaks, our great Chinatown, our fish house legacy (Oyster House could have been a bib).

    MK: P.S. Everyone I saw at the awards ceremony came away with something. Maybe not the star they craved, but hey — Michelin is no small potatoes.

    Amanda Shulman (right) and Alex Kemp react after winning the prestigious Michelin star for Her Place Supper Club at Tuesday’s Michelin ceremony at the Kimmel Center.

    CL: My big takeaway is that this is just the beginning. Michelin has made its initial preferences known, but will surely add to its recommendations every year. Places like D.C., whose dining scene I believe we can compete with, only has more stars because it’s been at it longer. My only hope is that restaurateurs keep cooking from the heart, and that they don’t alter what they do simply in pursuit of a star.

    I think the aspects of this city that have made it such a draw for out-of-town chefs in recent years (the affordability, low bar to access, a sophisticated audience) will equally draw chefs who aspire to build a Michelin-style restaurant here. It will cost less to do it than D.C. or NYC! (Even if Nich Bazik might protest that fact). In Philly, everything now is on the table, and I’m kind of more excited than I expected to be to see now where it heads.