Category: Food

  • đŸ„ƒ What Craig LaBan is gifting this year | Let’s Eat

    đŸ„ƒ What Craig LaBan is gifting this year | Let’s Eat

    Tough job, evaluating nearly three dozen whiskies for gift-giving. Craig LaBan and friends went there.

    🔔 Note that this is the last “Let’s Eat” newsletter of 2025. I’ll be back in your inbox Jan. 7.

    Also in this edition:

    — Mike Klein

    If someone forwarded you this email, sign up for free here.

    Craig LaBan’s favorite gift bottles of whiskey

    Craig LaBan and his whiskey-loving friends sniffed and sipped their way through 33 bottles from across the world — even one from BeyoncĂ©. Here are 14 he’d be happy to give and get.

    đŸ· Also: Here are the best wine shops in the region.

    New restaurant from a Michelin-starred chef couple

    Fresh off their Michelin glory, chef couple Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp have opened the casual Pine Street Grill. We took a first look.

    Pine Street Grill is on a former site of a Dmitri’s restaurant. In tribute, the couple is serving a riff on Dmitri Chimes’ popular shrimp pil pil appetizer.

    Shop at this honky-tonk bar

    Secondhand Ranch has a secondhand/vintage shop on one side, and a honky-tonk bar on the other, and it’s all deep in the heart of Fishtown.

    Kombucha for your face

    “Our skin is alive,” says Olga Sorzana, founder of Phoenixville’s popular Baba’s Brew. She’s infusing her kombucha into a line of skincare products.

    How a holiday bar has ruined the idea for one reporter

    Beatrice Forman says she went to Bucket Listers’ Emo Christmas bar in search of whimsy and holiday cheer — but “I left $139 poorer and feeling like a poser.” Bah, humbug.

    🎅 There is no shortage of holiday bars.

    The best things we ate last week

    On our plate this week: Tagliatelle at Alice, plus a burrata-topped brunch dish at the Love and our first bites of a PopUp bagel before the hyped chain comes to town.

    đŸ€€ Want more of this weekly feature? Get caught up here.

    Scoops

    Greg Vernick has a fourth restaurant on the way, and he’s headed to Frankford Avenue in bustling Kensington. Emilia will feature the Italian stylings of longtime Vernick Food & Drink chef de cuisine Meredith Medoway in an unfussy setting.

    If you had your ear to the ground, you’d know that the bar set to replace Roxborough’s former Tavern on Ridge will be called Hop Lil Bunny. Prospective owner says it’s just a hare early to discuss specifics.

    Restaurant report

    Casa Oui. A French pastry chef and a Mexican restaurant manager fell in love, and the result is Queen Village’s newest all-day cafĂ©. You can get coffee and pastries in the daytime and cocktails and Mexican fare (like the aguachile shown above) at night.

    La Maison Jaune. Zahra Saeed’s cozy, new French-style cafe near Fitler Square combines her two passions: delicious food and beautiful design. She plans to expand, which would send her line of pastries, including macarons de Nancy, financiers, and madeleines, all around the city.

    Among the openings on tap: Side Eye, the neighborhood bar coming to the former Bistrot La Minette space at 623 S. Sixth St. in Queen Village, and Bikini Burger at 44 Rittenhouse Place in Ardmore.

    Briefly noted

    Nine categories, four nominees in each: It’s the 2026 edition of the Tasties, the Philly restaurant awards handed out by the “Delicious City” podcast. The gala will be Feb. 1 at Live Casino, and the nominees are here.

    Manny’s Restaurant’s eight-year run in Holland’s Gateway Center will end Jan. 4 as the partners focus on their smaller deli at Willow Grove Pointe Shopping Center in Horsham.

    Zsa’s Ice Cream marks its finale Sunday after 14 years in Mount Airy. A year ago, Danielle Jowdy announced the shop’s “grand closing” as she sought to find a buyer. Final hours will be 3 to 9 p.m. through Friday, and noon to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

    Hunger-relief group Sharing Excess estimates that one truckload of food costs $1,290 to deliver and can feed 80 families for a month. For each $1,290 sponsorship, Sharing Express gives the donor a branded toy truck (like those Hess trucks). Details are here.

    ❓Pop quiz

    The Pennsylvania Farm Show will have a special feature when it starts in early January. What is it?

    A) red, white, and blue milkshakes

    B) a butter sculpture shaped like Saquon Barkley

    C) cow-tipping contests

    D) mushroom cheesesteaks

    Find out if you know the answer.

    Ask Mike anything

    Is 333 Belrose in Radnor ever coming back? — Marty P.

    Opened in 1999, this bar and grill tucked off King of Prussia Road has been closed since June as owners majorly remodel not only the interior but the menu. Reopening is targeted for mid-January. I’ll have more info on this and dozens of other openings in my “what’s coming in 2026″ feature just after New Year’s.

    📼 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

    By submitting your written, visual, and/or audio contributions, you agree to The Inquirer’s Terms of Use, including the grant of rights in Section 10.

  • The new Pine Street Grill pays a tasty tribute to the long-gone Dmitri’s and an iconic Philly dish

    The new Pine Street Grill pays a tasty tribute to the long-gone Dmitri’s and an iconic Philly dish

    Restaurants are not around forever, so it is special when a signature dish takes on new life well after last call.

    Take the Milan salad, essentially a deconstructed BLT with shrimp dressed in a distinctive Italian-Russian dressing, popularized by Jimmy’s Milan. Three decades after the Rittenhouse supper club’s closing, it lives on two blocks away at D’Angelo’s. (Cofounder Tony D’Angelo was Milan’s chef.) Order the D’Angelo’s salad, take a bite, and enjoy the time warp.

    Restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow, who will open the swank Mr. Edison at the Bellevue next year, told me that he plans to revive other Philly classics, including Georges Perrier’s galette de crabe, the Le Bec-Fin chef’s take on a Maryland crab cake.

    Now let’s consider shrimp pil pil, which restaurateur Dmitri Chimes introduced in the mid-1990s at Pamplona, his Washington Square West tapas bar, and later served at all of the locations of Dmitri’s, his no-frills Greek taverna. The appetizer delivered a one-two punch of chili and garlic with a burst of lemon to prep you for your entrĂ©e — perhaps the smoky chargrilled octopus or a rich bowl of cioppino.

    When chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp were planning their new Pine Street Grill at 23rd and Pine Streets — which housed a Dmitri’s from 1999 to 2014 — they asked their Fitler Square neighbors what they wanted in a restaurant. “They all kept referring back to Dmitri’s,” Shulman said.

    Kemp said he called Chimes, who still lives in the neighborhood. “He hand delivered us the recipe,” he said. “We’re just super-excited to keep a part of his legacy going. I will say that ours is more of an homage since we know it could never be exactly the same. We started with Dmitri’s recipe as a base and then iterated it a bit, but inherently, it has [the] same ethos and qualities.”

    Kemp and Shulman have done justice to this classic.

    Pamplona/Dmitri’s recipe called for large shrimp. At Pine Street, they’re going big with six jumbo shrimp, topping them with an abundant sauce that is far creamier and more herbaceous than I remember. They’re also thoughtfully adding grilled bread to ensure plate-cleaning.

    Now perhaps they’ll consider adding spanakopita or baklava to the menu 


    Shrimp pil-pil, as prepared from Dmitri’s recipe.
  • With a new Michelin star in hand, chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp open another restaurant

    With a new Michelin star in hand, chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp open another restaurant

    Chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp have each built distinct destination restaurants — the newly Michelin-recognized Her Place Supper Club and My Loup. This week, they opened one together.

    Pine Street Grill, across from Fitler Square at 23rd and Pine Streets, is their take on a neighborhood restaurant. It’s a comfortable, restrained setting with white stamped-metal ceiling, Streamline Moderne-style schoolhouse light fixtures, white walls, and a long bar running through the narrow space. The two single-occupancy restrooms are intentionally contrasting: One is entirely pink, while the other is a tribute to the Sixers, from the photo-collage wallpaper down to the “Smells Like a Sixers Win” candle on the toilet tank and basketball-shaped soap dispenser on the sink. Fitler Square-based contractor Kaman Global built the restaurant, with Philadelphia firm Canno Design consulting.

    One restroom at Pine Street Grill has a 76ers theme.

    The menu, by Shulman, Kemp, and chef de cuisine Jonathan Rodriguez, is timeless American. For starters, there’s a snack plate of mortadella-stuffed cherry peppers, olives, and spelt crackers ($11); shrimp Louie served in little gem lettuce cups with avocado and pickled onion ($16); wings in brown-butter hot sauce with Stilton blue cheese ($14); and a small soft pretzel with hollandaise mustard ($10). There also are Philly Balls, croquettes filled with roast pork, provolone, broccoli rabe, and spicy relish ($12 for two) that previously appeared on My Loup’s opening menu.

    Sandwiches include a turkey club with maple bacon on multigrain ($16) and a signature double dry-aged smashburger with Cooper Sharp and onion condiment on a seeded milk bun ($22).

    Pine Street Grill owners Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp.

    There’s a chopped Greek salad with Persian cucumbers, marinated feta, tomato, red onion, and oregano ($15) and a root-vegetable salad with chicories, aged cheddar, cranberries, and praline vinaigrette ($16). EntrĂ©es include hanger steak with pot-roast jus ($30); half a rotisserie chicken with gravy ($28); grilled salmon with piccata and spinach ($27); and eggplant Parmesan ($26).

    Desserts include a nut-free carrot cake ($13) with rum raisins, carrot jam, and cream-cheese mousse; sourdough chocolate-chip cookie skillet ($12) with vanilla ice cream — the same cookie Shulman serves at Her Place; and a sundae ($14) of malted-milk ice cream with brownie bites, spiced walnuts, hot fudge, and a cherry.

    Carrot cake at Pine Street Grill.

    There’s even a children’s menu, dubbed Belle’s Bites, after their daughter’s middle name: $10 each for nuggets and fries, grilled cheese, cruditĂ©s and ranch, and red or white shells.

    The late-night special for grown-ups, offered from 9:30 to 10:30 p.m., is any draft beer and the burger.

    Co-owner Alex Kemp serves an artichoke dip appetizer at Pine Street Grill.

    Jillian Moore, bar director of My Loup and bar consultant for the group, developed a cocktail list that includes a freezer martini made with local vermouth, a John Daly cocktail (a boozy Arnold Palmer) on draft, and Irish coffee. There’s Guinness, Strongbow cider, and birch beer on tap.

    Nicole Sullivan, Her Place’s beverage director, set up the wine list, which draws inspiration from European tavern culture. General manager Allyson Allen has worked with Shulman and the couple’s Libbie Loup group for several years, including at Her Place and Amourette, their 2024 summer pop-up.

    Buffalo wings at Pine Street Grill, 2227 Pine St.

    Pine Street Grill’s corner space has had a busy history: It housed Stix, a vegetarian restaurant, from 1997 to 1999; a location of Dmitri’s from 1999 to 2014; a branch of wine bar Tria from 2015 to 2017; and most recently Cotoletta, which closed last year after a five-year run.

    Shulman, a Connecticut native and Vetri alumna, burst onto the Philadelphia dining scene in 2021 with Her Place, offering versions of the homespun dinner parties she hosted in her student apartment at Penn. She and Kemp opened My Loup in 2023, three months before their wedding. Shulman has received multiple James Beard Award nominations, including Emerging Chef nominations in 2022 and 2023 and Best Chef Mid-Atlantic in 2025. Kemp, who is Canadian-born, previously worked at Montreal’s Joe Beef and New York’s Eleven Madison Park. The couple met at Momofuku Ko in New York.

    Pine Street Grill, 2227 Pine St., no phone, pinestreetgrill.com. Hours: 4 to 11 p.m. Wednesday to Monday; kitchen closes at 10:30 p.m. Half of the dining room is reservable via OpenTable for parties of up to eight; remaining tables are held for walk-ins. Happy hour: 4 to 6 p.m. weekdays, with a discounted food menu and $2 off draft beverages.

  • Queen Village’s new all-day restaurant is thanks to a Philly restaurant-industry romance

    Queen Village’s new all-day restaurant is thanks to a Philly restaurant-industry romance

    Queen Village has a new watering hole, and it’s all thanks to a classic restaurant-industry meet-cute.

    In 2020, Culinary Institute of America-trained pastry chef C.J. Cheyne was delivering pastries to West Passyunk Avenue’s La Llorona Cantina Mexicana when she met Israel Nocelo, a Puebla native, longtime Philly restaurant vet, and La Llorona’s general manager at the time. The introduction sparked a romance and a collaborative partnership that’s blossomed over the last five years into an engagement and, now, a full-fledged restaurant.

    Casa Oui, at 705 S. Fifth St., opened its doors Friday. The all-day spot fuses both partners’ culinary backgrounds — French and Mexican — in a contemporary American restaurant just a block off South Street and East Passyunk Avenue.

    The interior of Casa Oui, a new restaurant from owners Israel Nocelo and C.J. Cheyne.

    It’s open 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. for breakfast and brunch, featuring a full coffee menu, Cheyne’s pastries — doughnuts, cookies, beignets, cinnamon buns — plus breakfast sandwiches, burgers, salads, and tacos. There’s also a crudo bar with weekly rotating dishes including carpaccios and tiraditos dressed with house-made oils and seafood sourced from Philly’s Small World Seafood.

    The menu shifts after 3 p.m. for dinner: There are ceviches, steak with pepper sauce and cognac, churrasco with chimichurri sauce, tacos (al pastor, asada, fried fish), cauliflower with chili oils, guacamole, chorizo, and green hummus. (“We eat a lot of hummus in Mexico, made with chili powder and veggies,” Nocelo said.) Cheyne’s desserts, including miniature ice cream cakes, will be on the menu, too.

    The Asada taco at Casa Oui.

    The 60-seat restaurant’s debut comes after both Cheyne and Nocelo wound down their respective previous spots: Oui Pastries in Old City and the Si Taqueria in Point Breeze. “When we knew that the leases were going to expire soon,” Cheyne said, “our goal … was to find somewhere to bring the two together — have one home.”

    The couple had recently moved to Queen Village and found their new address while on a walk through the neighborhood. They took over 1,500-square-foot space that was formerly home to Umai Umai.

    Once they secured the lease and a liquor license (a factor Cheyne said was their “biggest objective”), Nocelo and Cheyne started remodeling the space with different textures — marble, cement, and metal — inspired by the design of museums in Mexico City. “It’s very classy, very clean,” Nocelo said. “When you walk [into the restaurant], we want the focus to be on what you get on the table — the cocktails and the food.”

    The Desesperado and La Incondicional cocktails at Casa Oui.

    Expect habanero margaritas, dirty martinis with blue cheese-stuffed olives, and Rival Bros. espresso martinis on the seasonally rotating cocktail menu. The wine list includes selections from Spain, France, Italy, and California, as well as local wineries. After 10 p.m., there’s a separate menu of late-night cocktails and snacks; think LibĂ©lula tequila and prickly pear-grapefruit sipper and steak tartare tostados.

    Come spring and summer, the couple plans to have 30 seats on the patio.

    Nocelo explains that there are some aspects of Mexican cuisine that have long been influenced by French technique due to France’s occupation of Mexico in the 1860s. “Croissants and baguettes, all that, are French influences in Mexico, especially in Puebla City,” he said. “Without the French, we would have never had cakes in Mexico.”

    The exterior of Casa Oui.

    The connection between the two cooking styles is what led to the chefs’ initial collaboration. After their meet-cute, Cheyne baked pan dulce Mexican bread and other pastries for La Llorona for about a year. The couple worked together on various food and beverage events in the city. And then in 2022, they ran a pop-up at Oui with cochinita tacos and Mexican-flavored doughnuts. The concept evolved into their takeout hot spot, Sí Taqueria, where you could pick up fresh conchas (baked to order in a wood-fired oven) and al pastor breakfast sandwiches (or tacos) served on Cheyne’s croissants.

    Among the former SĂ­ Taqueria’s specialties was the El Trendy breakfast sandwich, with al pastor and a fried egg on a Oui croissant.

    Casa Oui is the culmination of Cheyne and Nocelo’s cooking collaborations, the pair said.

    “We want to welcome you into our house,” Cheyne said. “Our line is, ‘It’s a place to stay awhile,’ so however you’re coming — for a bite, tapas to share, or dinner — we want you to feel welcomed.”

    Casa Oui, 705 S. Fifth St., 267-654-0016, instagram.com/casaouibar. Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Lunch/brunch 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., happy hour 2 to 5 p.m., dinner 3 to 10 p.m. Late-night menu 10 p.m. to midnight Thursday, Friday, Saturday. Closed Mondays.

  • Enough with the holiday bars

    Enough with the holiday bars

    ‘Tis the season of spiked hot cocoa in novelty glassware and donning Christmas sweaters before waiting in line to take Instagram photos.

    The holiday bars are back, baby. And this year, they’re making me feel like the Grinch.

    Holiday bars typically run from the weekend after Thanksgiving through New Year’s Eve, and Philly has no shortage of them. This season brings pop-ups that serve cocktails inside snowmen-shaped mug, a mini-golf course with a greased North Pole, and a slew of Santa impersonators looking to make some extra cash.

    And cash they will make: Holiday pop-ups can give bars and restaurants an extra leg up during what already is the busiest time of year, with the most successful — such as New York City’s Miracle on 9th Street — spawning lucrative franchise opportunities. Sometimes, however, they yield more coal than Christmas magic, like when drunk St. Nick impersonators spill into the street at the end of the annual SantaCon bar crawl.

    Holiday bars have always struck me as late-stage capitalism holly jolly-ified, because they commodify something as simple (and cheap!) as the joy of drinking with your friends in December.

    Despite this, I have a soft spot for them. I love taking in the slightly tacky displays and sipping on a sugary cocktail from a novelty glass that I’ll pay extra to take home. There’s also something magical about the tipsy train ride home that comes after, where my friends and I crack enough jokes to turn an overrated experience into one we end up doing annually.

    Christmas lights hang from the bar inside the Emo Christmas pop-up inside foundation at 699 N. Broad Street.

    This season feels different to me . One bar has ruined it for the rest by stripping away the whimsy and up-charging for something more nefarious: A holiday bar distilled down to its barest elements — gimmicky cocktails and Hobby Lobby discount-bin decor held together by a barely-there theme. There’s no sentiment behind the displays of miniature nutcrackers and colorfully wrapped (empty) gift boxes, just profit motive.

    The batch’s most egregious offender is the Emo Christmas bar pop-up that runs through Dec. 28 at Foundation., an event space beneath the Divine Lorraine on North Broad Street. It’s hosted by Bucket Listers, an New York City-based company that puts on limited-run events in cities across the U.S., from a Christmas Bar co-signed by Mariah Carey in Los Angeles to a murder-mystery dinner series in Miami.

    In Philly, Bucket Listers’ track record is mixed: When I attended their cereal-themed pop-up bar in March, plastic bowls of resin Fruit Loops fell from the photo wall. But I had also won putt-putt at this year’s Christmas collaboration with Libertee Grounds (the second of Bucket Listers’ three holiday pop-ups), where the mini-golf course was decked out in Philly-centric holiday decor, like a sleigh covered in Philadelphia Parking Authority tickets.

    The Taking Back Christmas welcome cocktail (left) and the I’m Not Okay cocktail (right) sit in front of an Emo Santa Claus at the Bucket Listers’ Christmas pop-up at Foundation.

    So when I learned before Thanksgiving that Bucket Listers was hosting an Emo Christmas pop-up, I was undeterred by any red flags. I love Christmas, and I spent high school on the outskirts of a clique of emo teens, cool enough to partake in My Chemical Romance listening sessions but not cool enough to vape with. If I was going to love a holiday bar, it should’ve been this one.

    A poser bar that preys on nostalgia

    I paid $57.20, after fees, for two Friday night tickets to Emo Christmas. The cost included one welcome cocktail per ticket, but, as I would later learn, any drinks or food beyond that would be pay-as-you-go.

    The only thing that’s punk rock about Bucket Listers’ Emo Christmas bar is that it doesn’t care about first impressions.

    The decorations feel half-baked, amounting to fake Christmas trees and a trio of full-sized nutcrackers that had black Sharpie smeared under their eyes to mimic eyeliner. Across from them stood a mannequin dressed as Santa, with swide-swept fringe bangs so you know he’s emo. Like everything else in the bar, he smelled lightly of kitchen grease.

    Each Bucket Listers pop-up is clearly designed as Instagram bait, as evidenced by the influencers that post about each one. Yet the space is too dim to take any photos. The only lights in the room emanated from the Christmas trees or red-tinted neon signs with phrases that no one has ever uttered seriously, such as “happy holidays, you bastard.”

    Christmas stockings hanging on the wall at the Bucket Lister’s Emo Christmas bar Philly pop-up. One honoring Blink 182 drummer Travis Barker has his name misspelled.

    It’s clear the space was decorated by posers. The back wall is covered in Christmas stockings labeled in chicken-scratch with the names of so-called pop-punk greats: Brendon Urie, Pete Wentz, and my personal favorite, Tavis B., a misspelled bastardization of Blink 182 drummer Travis Barker.

    I cringed, and cringed again while skimming the food and drink menus, which read as a list of poorly constructed puns. There’s the Panic! at the Pizza Bites (deep-fried pockets of sausage and cheese) and the Blink Wing82, which come in sets of six with either Buffalo sauce or dry rub. The most unfunny is the Still Into-fu, a tofu hoagie on a long roll named after “Still into You,” a pop love song from Paramore.

    My friend had already sent of photo of the menu to be flamed by her groupchat. “The obvious choice is Panic! At the Disco Fries,” she read from her phone. “BlinkWing182? All the Small Wings is right there.”

    An unexpected silver lining was our bartender. A true elder emo, he led with apathy, dodging questions about what’s good on the menu and the decorations with a shrug and a simple answer: “I don’t know. I just work here.”

    Buffalo cauliflower, pizza bites, and a slider from the Bucket Lister’s Emo Christmas Bar pop-up in Philly. Tickets start at $16.00 and do not include food or drink beyond a welcome cocktail.

    The bartender’s eyes roll while squeezing black food coloring into the aptly named I’m Not Okay, a vodka-club soda cocktail zhuzhed up with a whisper of blackberry. By the time he got to my Mezcal Confessional, he was was over it, leaving out the orange bitters to serve me a clear glass of mezcal spiked with brown sugar.

    Not that it mattered. Both drinks tasted like rubbing alcohol despite being made with completely different spirits. That’s a first — a Christmas bar where the drinks aren’t sweet enough. We toasted to the bartender’s commitment to the bit while an overdramatic ennui overtook me.

    I felt like I was taken for a ride, and not one on Santa’s sleigh.

    Christmas trees decorate the dimly lit seating area inside the Bucket Listers’ Emo Christmas Bar pop-up at Foundation.

    Emo Christmas preys on nostalgia. All holiday bars are designed to do this. Maybe the decor reminds you of a favorite window display from childhood or a scene from your guilty-pleasure Christmas movie. Or perhaps the peppermint espresso martini recalls the Schnapps you downed on your first pre-Thanksgiving Blackout Wednesday. The anticipation of it could even feel like waiting for a turn with mall Santa.

    I usually don’t mind paying extra for an experience like this. When done right, these bars conjure feelings that are more difficult to come by in adulthood: whimsy, silliness, glee.

    I came to Emo Christmas in search of all of those things. I left with none, only a check for $82.00 and a shriveled-up Grinch-sized heart.

  • Emilia will be chef Greg Vernick’s new restaurant, opening soon in Kensington

    Emilia will be chef Greg Vernick’s new restaurant, opening soon in Kensington

    With two acclaimed restaurants and a high-end coffee bar in Center City, chef Greg Vernick wasn’t looking to expand two years ago when a close friend introduced him to developers working in the Fishtown-Kensington corridor.

    They had a mixed-use building going up on Frankford Avenue, just north of the York Street roundabout. Vernick walked the neighborhood. “It reminded me of the East Village — a place you want to hang out at night, but also a real community,” he said. Still, Vernick was not entirely sold on the project until he and his wife, Julie, started spending more time nearby, dining at Fiore across the street and around the corner at Picnic and Zig Zag BBQ.

    Chef de cuisine Meredith Medoway and chef Greg Vernick in the kitchen at Vernick Food & Drink in 2022.

    The developers — Henry Siebert, Ryan Kalili, and Michael Dinan, all Vernick regulars — were keen on having an Italian restaurant in the building, at 2406 Frankford Ave. Vernick’s thoughts naturally turned to Meredith Medoway, the longtime chef de cuisine at his Vernick Food & Drink on Walnut Street. “Her heart has always been in pasta and Italian food,” Vernick said. “She took our pasta program from really good to great. So I started thinking: This could be the right person.”

    They’ve targeted “early 2026” for Emilia, a neighborhood trattoria featuring a seasonally flexible menu built around house-made pasta and live-fire cooking. (Vernick’s connection to the project has not previously been made public, and the restaurant’s name, recently set into tiles at the entrance, has been a subject of speculation on community Facebook groups.)

    Chef de cuisine Meredith Medoway working in the kitchen at Vernick Food & Drink in 2022.

    Canno Design’s Carey Jackson Yonce, who worked on Emilia with California-based designer Bob Bronstein, said they were going for “calmness, cleanliness, and contrast,” using contrasting materials, such as cinderblock on the bar’s front, spruce slats lining the ceiling, and oak panels on the walls. (During a visit last week, Vernick declined a request to photograph the space, as it was not completed.)

    “I wanted it to feel like the kind of place where you walk in and exhale and relax,” Vernick said. “Industry-friendly, not precious. We want to hit two markets from day one: the neighborhood and the industry. If you get those right, everything else falls into place.”

    Emilia restaurant is at 2406 Frankford Ave.

    There will be seating for about 60 in the dining room, with 20 additional seats in a lounge area and 10 at the bar. The bar and lounge are intended for walk-ins, while the main dining room will lean more heavily on reservations.

    The 33-year-old Medoway — a Cherry Hill native like Vernick, who is 45 — studied political science at American University in Washington, D.C.

    During one college summer, she worked at Hinge Café in Port Richmond and fell in love with cooking. She interned at Vernick Food & Drink, stayed on, worked every station, and moved to Hearthside in Collingswood for its 2017 opening. She spent three months cooking in Calabria, and flew back to the United States to work at Vernick Fish at its opening in 2019. She returned to Vernick Food & Drink in 2021.

    Greg Vernick and chef Meredith Medoway in the lounge at Emilia.

    At Emilia — a purely made-up name (Vernick said he was tired of putting his own name on restaurants) — Medoway will work on a 48-inch grill fueled by charcoal and oak. The menu is intentionally restrained: about six small plates, six pastas, and six large dishes, supplemented by nightly specials.

    Medoway said the pasta dishes are rooted in personal experience rather than strict regional rules. One anchor will be tortellini in brodo, based on a handwritten family recipe she received while staying in Emilia-Romagna. Another is what they’re calling chicken ragĂč bianco — a white ragĂč made with hand-cut chicken and offal — inspired by a staff meal that they ate at the American Academy in Rome during a tour of Italy.

    “It was the best pasta we had on that trip,” Vernick said. “Simple, balanced, and deeply satisfying.”

    Elsewhere, the menu leans toward lighter preparations and Vernick’s bold style, with brothy sauces, acidity, and restrained use of fat rather than heavy butter-and-cheese finishes. Subtle char from the grill will appear throughout the menu, even in dishes that do not come directly off the fire. Proteins include rabbit prepared in cacciatore style with orange, rotating fish dishes, shellfish stew, and a nightly steak special.

    Bread service will be complimentary: house-made focaccia, the imported Italian breadsticks known as grissini, and Mighty Bread’s sesame ciabatta. A separate bread course, the crunchy carta da musica, will be offered as a menu item.

    “We want the neighborhood to feel like this is their place,” Medoway said. “You shouldn’t need a reservation just to come in for a drink and a snack.”

    The wine list will focus exclusively on Italian bottles. The cocktail program is still being finalized but is expected to emphasize lighter, simpler drinks.

    Emilia is expected to employ between 40 and 50 people. Vernick said opening a restaurant today requires tighter menus and less waste than a decade ago, but also greater attention to staff experience — from locker rooms to staff meals — as an essential part of operations.

    “We’re building this deliberately,” Vernick said. “It’s taken time — but that’s the point.”

  • The 14 best whiskeys to give this holiday season

    The 14 best whiskeys to give this holiday season

    Technically it’s always whiskey-sipping season in my house. But there is something extra cozy about the December chill that sparks the spirit of giving whiskey, too. The glint of colorful lights on a big ice cube rattling through a tumbler of amber elixir. The toasty vanilla perfume of barrel char, the punchy spice of distilled rye, a whiff of peat smoke from a faraway land. A great bottle that captures this kind of magic is the definition of a win-win gift because, hopefully, whoever receives it will be in the cheerful mood to crack it open right there and share! That’s just good manners.

    That is exactly what I did recently when I gathered a group of thirsty friends, neighbors, and spirit nerds for an afternoon tasting to determine the stars for my annual holiday bottle list. This year we sniffed, sipped, and selected 14 winners from a competitive collection of 33 bottles from across the world, including intriguing entries from two countries not yet known for whiskey — Mexico and Korea — as well as a pleasant surprise from a music icon more famous for her Billboard hits than her high-rye mashbill. All of these bottles are currently available retail in Pennsylvania and South Jersey, and they suit a wide range of tastes and price points, from a half-dozen sub-$50 values to a handful of triple-digit splurges.

    One noticeable trend is the continued swing toward high-proof spirits, and in particular, whiskeys categorized as bottled-in-bond. This legal designation was created in 1897 to certify purity — with no additives other than water — and that the whiskey in question is produced by one distillery, aged no fewer than four years, and bottled at 100 proof. While the Bottled in Bond Act was launched as an integrity initiative when late 19th-century rectifiers were adding ingredients like creosote and wintergreen to their booze, the reasons for the current resurgence is unfortunately economic.

    America’s craft industry is in the midst of a major implosion, with nearly 25% of America’s craft distillers closing over the past year due to a variety of reasons, from a rise in legalized cannabis and GLP-1 drugs that have cut into liquor consumption to the double-whammy of rising costs and plummeting exports due to tariffs. The net effect, says Rob Cassell of New Liberty Distillery in Northeast Philly, has been a wave of distillers unloading their more expensive aged inventory as the industry consolidates. That’s concerning for whiskey fans.

    The flip side is that I also happen to be a fan of the 100-proof category, which offers more punch (and, often, more flavor) than standard bottlings typically in the 80- to 90-proof range. So I was happy to do my part and support the cause, putting several of these intriguing bottles on my annual tasting table and now passing them along as recommendations. While the industry confronts the sobering facts of its new reality, we can at least drink well.

    Scotch

    From left: Dewar’s Blended Scotch Whisky, The Glendoronach Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky, and Bruichladdich Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky.

    Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie

    The eye-catching teal blue bottle is only one sign this whisky is different. Bruichladdich, a once-fallow Victorian-era distillery, was revived in 2001 by emissaries of the French wine industry with a modern aesthetic and a focus on locally grown barley, which always comprises at least a portion of the mashbill. It’s one of the only distilleries on Islay (the smoke-shrouded home of Laphraoig) that makes some of its whiskies without peat-smoked malts. (Some of its bottles, like Octomore and Port Charlotte, are actually quite peaty). The Laddie is its signature elegant bottling. It smells of lemon and honey on the nose, then coats your palate with a fresh, clean flavor that evokes a breezy field of grain, then blooms into the fruity flavor of a Bosc pear glazed in salted dark caramel. Remarkably smooth for a 100-proof dram. Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie, 100 proof, 750ml, on sale in Pennsylvania in December ($3 off) for $54.99 (PLCB Item # 000096308)

    Dewar’s Blended Scotch 19-year-old, Champions Edition Oakmont label

    My dear late mother-in-law was a devoted Dewar’s drinker, and what’s fascinating is that even in its fancied-up form, such as this 19-year-old collectible for the U.S. Open Golf Championship, the traditional sweet side notes of this classic blended Scotch hold true: bananas and chocolate, tanged with citrus and baking spice. That profile reads deeper and more resonant in this slightly higher-octane edition (86 proof vs. the usual 80), which also has the added notes of apple brandy from the Calvados barrels used for aging. Apparently, because this 2025 golf tournament was held at Oakmont Country Club in Pittsburgh, Dewar’s wanted to honor Pennsylvania’s long affinity for the fruit, and it landed with my judges. “Smells like Mott’s apple sauce!” said one after a big sniff, while another, who added a splash of water, noted it took on a lovely butterscotch finish. Dewar’s Blended Scotch 19-year-old, The Champions Edition Oakmont label, 86 proof, 750ml, $79.99 (PLCB item #100047823)

    The Glendronach 15-year-old Sherry Cask

    This 15-year-old Highland malt looks and smells like burnished old copper, and delivers a decadent fruitcake of deliciousness on the palate — fudgy chocolate, bitter oranges, toasty walnuts, candied cherries, and figs, all wrapped up in a minty finishing puff of pipe smoke. Aged in Pedro XimĂ©nez and Oloroso sherry casks, which accounts for the nutty and dark caramel notes, this 92-proof dram is both smooth and brawny, so a small splash of water only lengthens the flavors rather than dilutes them. A worthy splurge for the single-malt collector in your life. The Glendronach 15-Year-Old Sherry Cask, 92 proof, 700ml, $114 (PLCB Item #100043250)

    Asian whiskeys

    From left: The Yamazaki, Single Malt Japanese Whiskey and Ki One Single Malt Korean Whiskey.

    Ki One Korean Single Malt Whisky

    The single most fascinating whisky in this year’s tasting came from Ki One, South Korea’s first single-malt distillery, founded in 2020 by Korean American Bryan Do, who quit his job as a Microsoft exec to pursue his passion for spirits. He and master distiller Andrew Shand, who’s worked in both Scotland (Glenlivet) and Japan (Nikka), wanted to create a whisky that spoke to Korea’s love of spice, achieved largely through the choice of casks and the fast-aging properties of the region’s heat. This “Batch 1” edition aged in virgin American oak gets there beautifully, with deep caramel color and tropical fruit notes on the front — bananas, passion fruit, green Gage plums — along with a sweetness that phases into a tingly finish with a peppery, fermented tang reminiscent of gochujang. Not for everyone, considering the price, but well-made and utterly unique. Ki One Korean Single-Malt Whisky, 80 proof, 700 ml, $124.99 at Benash Liquors & Wines, 2405 NJ-38, Cherry Hill, N.J., 856-667-3539, benashliquors.com

    Yamazaki Distiller’s Reserve

    Any good Japanese whiskey under $100 is worth a second look, but especially one from the Yamazaki, Japan’s pioneering single-malt distillery built in 1923. The Distiller’s Reserve is Yamazaki’s entry-level bottling, but it’s still a gloriously smooth and complex sipper that will convey much of what makes the brand so coveted. The use of Japanese mizunara oak casks, along with American and Spanish wood, lends a subtle incense-scented component to the mix. Each sip is like a lovely pastry of beguiling flavors, with spiced stone fruit and caramel-vanilla on the nose segueing to strawberries and toasted coconut on the palate, shaded by a soft backdrop of peated malt. This is the kind of whiskey that coats your teeth in the best way. Its aromatics are also lovely when they sparkle atop the icy fizz of a luxury highball. The Yamazaki Distiller’s Reserve, 86 proof, 750ml, $94.99 (PLCB Item #100051645)

    Mexican whiskey

    Prieto y Prieta

    When I think of Mexico, I naturally think of agave spirits, but Mexico’s deep relationship to corn is also inspiring, so why not whiskey? This unique, brassy-colored whiskey de maiz shows what can be done with four heirloom varieties of corn from Oaxaca, and the results are intriguing. Caramel corn, grilled corn husks, and cinnamon are the most obvious aromas that hit you first, but what makes this whiskey so cool are the intensely earthy flavors that emerge on the palate, evoking mushrooms, green peppercorns, and a soft hibiscus tang. Your first instinct might be to add a splash of water to this 86-proof spirit, but that only seemed to dilute the character of its best traits. The label, featuring ears of corn with gilded kernels, will look pretty on any bar cart. Prieto y Prieta Mexican Whisky, $49.99, 86 proof, 750ml, at Benash Liquors & Wines

    From left: Sirdavis Rye Whiskey Finished in Sherry Casks and Preito y Preita Whisky Mexicano.

    American whiskey

    SirDavis American Whiskey

    On the subject of beautiful packaging, the tall, fluted shoulders of SirDavis’ bottle — topped with a cut crystal-style stopper and embossed with a bronze horse — stood out like an oversized bottle of luxury perfume. The soignĂ© Western-themed look made sense once I told the tasting team this American whiskey was created by BeyoncĂ© Knowles-Carter in collaboration with MoĂ«t Hennessy in the midst of her Cowboy Carter glory. I did not reveal that fact, however, until after we sipped. And this brilliant copper-hued spirit rose on its own merits. It wore its high-rye spice proud, lending some needed backbone to the pretty flavors of barley malt that followed with toffee-caramel sweetness, baking spice, and a raisiny finish thanks to Pedro Ximenez barrels.

    Celebrity bottles almost always fall flat. But Queen Bey is no ordinary celeb. She also has whiskey roots, paying tribute here to her great-grandfather, Davis Hogue, a Prohibition-era moonshiner for whom SirDavis is named. Not really a profound whiskey, but given the pedigree, far better than it has to be. SirDavis American Whiskey, 88 proof, 750ml, $98, available online at sirdavis.com

    Bourbon

    From left Baby Jane Bourbon, Old Forester Kentucky Straight Bourbon 1870, and Willett Bourbon

    Old Forester Straight Bourbon 1870

    This version of Old Forester is made to the original mashbill and shines like a copper penny in the glass. It’s an easy drinker that shows the brand’s classic chocolate-and-cherry notes, but also floral aromas, citrus, and baking spice. Old Forester aficionados will debate which bottling of its age-dated series is best (I’m still partial to the chocolate-cake goodness of the 1920 label), but this bottle — a stellar sub-$50 value that’s perfect over a big ice cube or two — satisfies every time. Old Forester Straight Bourbon 1870, 90 proof, 750ml, $44.99, (PLCB Item # 9882)

    Widow Jane Baby Jane Bourbon

    The “Baby Jane” edition from Brooklyn’s Widow Jane is the first bourbon that includes whiskey made at its Red Hook distillery in New York. Named for the proprietary Baby Jane breed of heirloom corn that lends this bourbon both creamy and spicy notes, it’s blended with sourced whiskey from Kentucky and limestone mineral water from the abandoned Widow Jane mine in Rosendale, N.Y. (the distillery’s namesake). The nose offers a bright combo of sweet corn and crushed red apple skins, while the flavors channel the advertised duo of sweetness and spice — think strawberry shortcake topped with lots of whipped cream, plus several grinds of black pepper and sea salt. One taster found the name “too creepy,” but the rich texture and balance of this small-batch whiskey, at just under $50, is a worthy gift to give or receive. Widow Jane Baby Jane Bourbon, 91 proof, 750ml, $49.99 (PLCB item # 35053)

    From left The Representative Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Still Austin Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Angels Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey and Old Grand Dad Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey for Craig Laban, studio, Tuesday, December 9, 2025

    Still Austin “The Musician” Straight Bourbon

    This relatively new distillery from Texas’ Hill Country impressed the tasting panel last year with a rye (“The Artist”) that landed on our final list for its combination of character and value. No surprise Still Austin’s straight bourbon earns another recommendation. This also features a relatively high rye mashbill (25%) among its all-Texas grain, which lends some peppery spark to the honeyed, toasty nose of this deep amber juice. More fruit and nuts rise on the palate, shaded by a finish tobacco, baking spice, and tea. Overall, it’s impressively smooth for a young whiskey (aged just two years) that clocks in just shy of 100 proof. Still Austin “The Musician” Straight Bourbon, 98.4 proof, 750ml, $42.99 at Total Wine (Cherry Hill), $44.99 (PLCB Item #52349)

    Old Grand-Dad Straight Bourbon Bottled in Bond 7-year-old

    The seven-year-old Bottled-in-Bond expression of Old Grand-Dad is a relatively limited seasonal release for this standby bourbon brand. It’s also a step up in character over the basic bargain label associated with Old Grand-Dad, which was founded in 1840 by the grandson of whiskey legend Basil Hayden Sr., also the namesake Jim Beam’s popular (and much more expensive) small-batch whiskey. This 2018 edition is somewhat restrained on the nose, but the initial flavors of grainy graham cracker sweetness open up into a zingy plume of caraway and pepper spice, with a lingering lime-zest acidity that flashes and lingers on the tongue. Those savory elements step forward even more with a splash of water. This would make a fantastic julep. The panel also gave a collective “Wow!” of surprise when I revealed the price: This thrifty Old Grand-Dad rings in just under $40. Old Grand-Dad Straight Bourbon Bottled in Bond 7-year-old, 100 Proof, 750ml, $39.99, (PLCB Item # 100050572)

    Angel’s Envy Bottled in Bond Bourbon

    This is the first bottled-in-bond edition from Angel’s Envy, which also happens to be its first cask-strength spirit, a six-year-old whiskey that is decadent and rich from first sniff to final sip. Its nose of vanilla custard and caramelized Demerara sugar led one taster to declare it “the crĂšme brĂ»lĂ©e of bourbons!” On the palate, the dessert notes take a different and fruity turn — like chocolate-covered apricots — that just keep going. Don’t be tempted to add water. Despite the high proof (actually relatively low for a cask-strength), this whiskey is perfect as is. Angel’s Envy Bottled in Bond Bourbon, 100 proof, 750ml, $64.99 (PLCB Item #53715)

    Proof and Wood Straight Bourbon “The Representative”

    I never thought about Congress in terms of whiskey until I encountered this series of Washington-themed spirits from Proof and Wood, which ages whiskeys according to political terms in office, from the “Senator” (six years) all the way up to the Presidential Dram (eight years). The “Representative,” aged “at least two Congressional terms,” is a four-year-old powerhouse distilled in 2020 that blends sweetness and spice with impressive balance considering it’s bottled at 114.8-proof cask strength. (When diluted to 80 proof, the same mashbill becomes Proof and Wood’s Deadwood bourbon.) It’s eminently sippable as is, but a splash of water accentuates the buttery sweetness and also teases forward some of its more interesting notes — sassafras, licorice, and an herbal bitterness reminiscent of amaro. It’s delicious on its own terms, but for a cask-strength whiskey at $50, it’s an absolute deal. Proof and Wood Straight Bourbon “The Representative”, 114.8 proof, 750ml, $49.99 Benash Liquors & Wines

    Willett Pot Still Reserve Small Batch Bourbon

    Despite its slightly elevated heat at 94 proof, this straight bourbon from Bardstown, Kentucky, is an easy sipper that rides the smooth caramel notes of a mashbill that’s mostly corn and wheat, giving off the elegant tang of a moist lemon cake soaked in vanilla syrup. An herbal whiff and salty wave rise just enough to keep the finish peppery and interesting. (“I’d love this in a Manhattan!” opined one judge.) The elegant bottle — shaped like a long-necked pot still — is a major selling point on its own for gift-giving in the $50 range. Even better, this whiskey comes in 50-milliliter minis that makes it perfect for stuffing your stockings with the magic of bourbon, too. Willett Pot Still Reserve, Small Batch Bourbon, 94 proof, 750ml, $46 at Total Wine; 50 ml for $9.49 at Total; $54.99, 750ml in Pennsylvania (PLCB Item #: 30489)

    Willett Bourbon Whiskey
  • Grab a drink and go on a treasure hunt at Fishtown’s new Secondhand Ranch, a thrift store inside a honky-tonk

    Grab a drink and go on a treasure hunt at Fishtown’s new Secondhand Ranch, a thrift store inside a honky-tonk

    Waylon Jennings drawls as customers cradle bottles of Lone Star beer while browsing the racks at Secondhand Ranch — the latest attraction deep in the heart of Fishtown.

    The rough-hewn, outlaw-country theme bar paired with a retail store specializing in secondhand clothing and vintage merchandise opened Dec. 6. It’s set behind saloon-style swinging doors inside the Frank Furness-designed former bank building at Frankford and Girard Avenues, across from Garage, Joe’s Steaks, and Johnny Brenda’s.

    This retail-bar pairing dates to 2020, when founder Josh Sampson opened Garage Sale Vintage in Denver. Sampson describes the idea as “a love letter to the circular economy — with salt on the rim.”

    The three pillars, he said, are sustainability, a focused margarita program, and partnerships with local vendors. He later expanded it to two locations, with a tacos-and-tequilas menu, in Nashville and then to New York.

    Decor items and clothing are shown at the thrift store inside the new Secondhand Ranch in Fishtown.

    Seeking a space in Philadelphia last year, he struck a deal with Alterra Property Group for the Fishtown building. Soon after, he became embroiled in a copyright lawsuit with the operators of Garage, the bar across the street.

    Sampson changed the name and concept for the Philadelphia location. Rather than strictly vintage items, he decided that Secondhand Ranch would be a country bar paired with secondhand retail, with a smattering of vintage items.

    Barn doors separate the bar and retail at Secondhand Ranch in Fishtown.

    The distinction between secondhand and vintage is crucial: “Secondhand is a much broader category,” Sampson said. “With vintage, it’s simple — everything has to be 20 years old or more. Secondhand lets us focus more on sustainability and diverting usable goods from landfills. It also allows for lower price points and a different kind of fun.” Think racks upon racks of T-shirts, sweaters, hats, jeans, button-down shirts, as well as a rodeo’s worth of cowboy boots — all secondhand.

    The retail operation, behind barn doors, is split evenly between in-house curation and a vendor collective, said manager Nikki Gallipoli. Each vendor (such as Zac Cowell, known as VintageZac) manages its own rack in the store — “they come in, sort it, and keep it updated,” she said. Inventory includes vinyl records, books, and knickknacks.

    Decor items and clothing are shown at the thrift store inside the new Secondhand Ranch in Fishtown.

    “Part of the experience is grabbing a drink and going on a treasure hunt,” Gallipoli said.

    A retro-style gift shop within the space focuses on new, non-clothing merchandise such as accessories, novelty items, stickers, matchbooks, and handmade goods. Much of that inventory is sourced from small independent businesses online rather than strictly from Philadelphia suppliers. “The clothing itself isn’t always handmade, but it is always secondhand,” she said.

    Decor and clothing items are shown at the thrift store inside the new Secondhand Ranch in Fishtown.

    Secondhand Ranch leans fully into honky-tonk aesthetics and sound for what Sampson calls “very much the kind of vibe you’d see in Austin or Nashville.”

    The massive bar, set beneath wagon-wheel chandeliers, seats about 30, with an additional 30 to 40 seats spread throughout the room. The former bank vault has been preserved and now functions as cold storage for beer. There are old-fashioned coin-operated games in one corner, and a stage that’s now set up with den-style furniture.

    Jordan Sims tries on a cowboy hat at the thrift shop inside Secondhand Ranch in Fishtown.

    The stage will host live music, scheduled to begin in early February, when the food menu — primarily wild-game sausage, nothing fancy — launches. Right now, hot peanuts are served.

    Lone Star is the beer of choice; it’s part of the citywide special ($10), paired with an infusion shot.

    Customers gather in the lounge at Secondhand Ranch in Fishtown on Dec. 6, 2025.

    “One fun goal we set for ourselves is trying to become the No. 1 Lone Star beer account,” Sampson said. There are 12 beers on tap. Besides Lone Star, the bottle list includes Star and Shiner Bock from Texas, plus elevated local craft options like Tonewood Brewing’s Freshies. “It’s exactly what you’d expect at a honky-tonk,” Sampson said.

    Classic and seasonal margaritas anchor the cocktail program, along with zero-proof options. Programming will include DJ sets, pop-ups, and “Trade-In & Sip” nights, designed to connect the drinking and shopping experiences while emphasizing community engagement. Vendor applications will open online, and a pop-up showcase with margarita specials is planned as part of opening festivities in February.

    Secondhand Ranch, 1148 Frankford Ave., 267-807-13450, is open from noon to midnight Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Closed Tuesdays through December. The retail store closes at 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and at 9 p.m. the other days.

    Secondhand Ranch in Fishtown.
  • The best things we ate this week

    The best things we ate this week

    Tagliatelle at Alice

    So much of the menu at Alice in the Italian Market showcases big, smoky flavors from the kitchen’s coal-fired oven. My favorite way to enjoy those dishes (don’t miss the oysters or roasted chicken!) is to punctuate them with the menu’s lighter and brighter options. Case in point is this tagliatelle with spigarello pesto, black truffle shavings, and pecorino. I had to Google “spigarello” and found that it’s an heirloom Italian green in the same family as broccoli. And that made sense: The pesto was earthy, with just the right amount of bitterness. It’s a perfect partner for fresh, bouncy pasta, which is an ideal counter to all of Alice’s smoke-kissed goodness. Alice, 901 Christian St., 215-798-6766, alicephiladelphia.com

    — Evan S. Benn

    The burrata toast at the Love in Rittenhouse.

    Burrata toast at the Love

    This cheesy and fruity brunch appetizer was a delightfully tasty surprise on a menu full of delicious classics. It was my first time brunching at the Love and this unexpectedly memorable dish still has me daydreaming. The combination of burrata, pears, fig jam, greens, and pine nuts worked so well on a slice of soft, luscious ciabatta that I found myself enjoying something salad-y at a meal when I typically opt for eggs or sweets. (Of course, I made sure to try the cranberry-orange scones and lemon-poppy seed pancakes, too, which didn’t disappoint.) The Love, 130 S. 18th St., 215-433-1555, theloverestaurant.com

    — Rosa Cartagena

    PopUp Bagels grew out of an experimenter’s backyard in Connecticut.

    Everything bagels at PopUp Bagels

    I love a gimmick, so I jumped on the pop-up sale for the viral, venture-backed, bagel-minimalism chain PopUp Bagels when it came to Di Bruno Bros. last weekend. The $24 bag included three plains and three everythings, plus the scallion cream cheese I’d preordered.

    They’re good bagels! They were well-toasted on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The everything bagels were heartily seeded and seasoned. They came warm and fresh, and were thus easy to rip apart and dip in the schmear, as the brand encourages. I devoured one in its entirety within about a minute of leaving Di Bruno’s, then another at home, then another the next morning after a light spritz with water and 30 seconds in the microwave (it came out a little chewy, but it held up).

    But listen — the city already has plenty of great bagels that do not come from a Connecticut-based startup. Take Knead Bagels, my Center City go-to, or Cleo Bagels, my West Philly fave, whose bagel sandwiches are so densely stuffed, you could eat them with a fork. At Cleo, you can even get a garlic za’atar bialy or a bagel topped with lavender seeds. Call it bagel maximalism.

    PopUp’s first area storefront is set to open in Ardmore early next year. They’re not bagels you need to travel for, but they are the kind of simple, grab-and-go bagels you’d be excited to eat if a coworker brought a box to the office. PopUp Bagels, coming soon to 10 Coulter Ave., Ardmore, popupbagels.com

    — Julie Zeglen

  • Where to get holiday takeout and dine-in for Hanukkah, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Eve

    Where to get holiday takeout and dine-in for Hanukkah, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Eve

    If you’re feeling world-weary this holiday season, why not skip the homemade feast and take an easier, if more indulgent route? Dine-in or takeout. The options in the Philly area are plenty, from chopped liver to high-end sushi.

    Here are 14 local options for Hanukkah, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Eve. Note that some restaurants have menus for more than one of these holidays.

    Get Hanukkah doughnuts at High Street Bakery.

    Hanukkah

    Biederman’s Specialty Foods

    Order a Hanukkah brunch board, complete with gelt, bagels, and all the fixings, for $150. Add a latkes package for $20 with caviar supplements for an additional $85 to $165. You can also opt for Christmas Eve brunch boards ($150 to $200). Pick up orders from Dec. 13 to 31.

    824 Christian St., 215-392-9229, biedermansphilly.com

    High Street Bakery

    Get four-packs of sufganiyot (filled with either strawberry-pink peppercorn jam or chocolate-chestnut cream) for $24 this Hanukkah from High Street. Preorder online. Pickups run Saturday, Dec. 13, to Monday, Dec. 22, between noon and 4 p.m. The restaurant and bakery will also host a luxe, three-course New Year’s Eve supper in its private dining room. Tickets are $100, plus $50 for a wine pairing on OpenTable.

    Also check out High Street’s Ever Eve holiday pop-up bar, open Saturdays in December from 6 to 10 p.m., for boozy hot chocolate and other holiday cocktails, plus bar bites like crispy fried oysters. Enjoy live jazz from Dave Brodie and a rotating lineup of local artisans, too. Walk-ins are welcome, but reservations are strongly encouraged to guarantee a spot.

    101 S. Ninth St., 215-625-0988, highstreetonmarket.com

    Famous 4th Street Delicatessen

    Consider Famous 4th’s Hanukkah prix fixe takeaway or dine-in dinner. Order noshes of chopped liver, herb-roasted chicken, and braised beef brisket served with potato pancakes and challah stuffing, and desserts like assorted rugelach and sufganiyot. Expect $39 per person for dine-in and $155 per kit, which serves four people. The Hanukkah menu runs Dec. 13 to Jan. 2. Reserve online.

    700 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3274, famous4thstreetdelicatessen.com

    The pierogi ruskie at Little Walter’s in Philadelphia on Wednesday, Sept. 4, 2024.

    Christmas Day

    Urban Farmer

    Inside the Logan Hotel, enjoy dine-in or takeout options for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. On Dec. 24 and 25, specials include maple-glazed ham ($34) and rib-eye ($53), with a selection of sides and desserts. For takeout, pick up a holiday dinner on Christmas Eve or Day from noon to 2:30 p.m. The $280 package serves four to six people and includes a choice of maple-mustard-glazed ham or rib eye and three different pies.

    1850 Benjamin Franklin Pkwy., 215-963-2788, urbanfarmersteakhouse.com

    El Camino Real

    The Northern Liberties Tex-Mex bar nods to tradition with its Christmas and New Year’s Eve dinner to-go packages ($110 to $300), which offer choices like rib-eye roast, brisket, and turkey. Scale your menu’s size for two to 10 people. Christmas orders must be picked up on Dec. 24, and New Year’s orders on Dec. 31. Purchase online.

    1040 N. Second St., 215-925-1110, elcaminophilly.com

    Uchi

    The splashy new Rittenhouse sushi restaurant, which comes by way of Austin, is offering a holiday omakase at home special for takeout or delivery all month long. For $120, feast on 12 pieces nigiri, two makimono rolls, hama chili crudo, chicken karaage, Brussels sprouts, and house-made fried milk ice cream. Order online up to Dec. 30.

    1620 Sansom St., 215-647-7611, uchi.uchirestaurants.com

    Kitchen + Kocktails By Kevin Kelley

    Recently opened next to the Cambria Hotel on South Broad Street, Kitchen + Kocktails will be open for regular dinner service on Christmas Eve. There are also plenty of takeout options: Consider a pan of candied yams, cornbread dressing, collard greens, and other sides for $79 to $115. Entrees include lamb chop, smoked turkey leg, catfish, and blackened salmon pans for $79 to $185, and desserts like peach cobbler and sweet potato pie are $79 each. Orders can be made online.

    225 S. Broad St., 215-867-5112, kitchenkocktailsusa.com

    Little Walter’s

    Chef Michael Brenfleck is serving handmade kielbasa, holiday breads and baked goods, pantry staples, and a selection of frozen pierogi this Christmas. On Dec. 20 and 21, pick up kielbasa at $10 per pound. Bakery options including babka and poppy seed rolls are priced at $12, while pantry items like ogĂłrki konserwowe (pickles) and smalec (whipped lard with crunchy pork skin) will go for $8 each. A selection of frozen pierogi can be purchased for $25 per dozen. Orders can be placed via Toast.

    2049 E. Hagert St., 267-239-2228, littlewaltersphilly.com

    Square 1682

    Square 1682, located at 17th and Sansom Streets, is serving up a Christmas menu featuring squash soup, deviled eggs, lobster risotto, Thai fried red snapper, crÚme brûlée, and more. The three-course meal, including a side, will be offered from 4 to 8:30 p.m. on Dec. 24 and 25, and 5 to 10 p.m. on Dec. 26 and 27. Book on OpenTable.

    121 S. 17th St., 215-563-5008, square1682.com

    Enjoy seared foie gras at Fond this New Year’s Eve.

    New Year’s Eve

    Fond

    Chefs Lee Styer and Jesse Prawlucki-Styer are ringing in New Year’s Eve with a five-course dinner for $135 per person. Takers will be in for a feast starting with a half-dozen oysters followed by grilled radicchio salad; tuna tartare; seared foie gras; scallops with braised fennel and endive; pork belly with Okinawan sweet potato, escarole, and Dijon jus; and hazelnut chocolate mousse with vanilla tangerine, toffee cannoli, and sour cherry coulis. Reservations are encouraged at the Wallingford BYOB; book on Resy.

    21 N. Providence Rd., Wallingford, 484-445-2108, fondbyob.com

    Forsythia

    Chef Chris Kearse’s Old City boüte is offering a four-course dinner for New Year’s Eve. The meal features fluke crudo, beef short rib, and mousse au chocolat noir for $150. Seatings will be from 4:45 to 9:45 p.m. Reserve a spot on Resy.

    233 Chestnut St., 215-644-9395, forsythiaphilly.com

    River Twice

    Ring in the new year at River Twice on East Passyunk with a seven-course tasting menu and a Champagne toast. The New Year’s Eve lineup includes raw aged beef seasoned with golden ossetra caviar and oyster emulsion, halibut from the gulf of Maine with shimeji mushrooms and shellfish gumbo, and more. Dinner is $150 per person at a table or $175 at the chefs counter, with optional beverage pairings available. Guests will also receive a complimentary glass of Champagne at midnight. Book a reservation on Resy for seatings from 5 to 10 p.m.

    1601 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-457-3698, rivertwicerestaurant.com

    Almyra

    Ring in 2026 at Almyra’s New Year’s Eve dinner. For $95 per person, dig into mezzes like spanakopita manti and Wagyu dumplings, entrees like filet mignon kebab and chicken kofta, and assorted Greek desserts. NYE reservations can be made for seatings from 4 to 7 p.m. After 9:30 p.m., reservations are $95 per guest with a sparkling wine toast and DJ starting at 9 p.m. Book on Resy.

    1636 Chancellor St., 267-876-7070, almyrarestaurant.com

    Mish Mish

    Get loose on New Year’s Eve: Instead of prix fixe menus, Mish Mish will serve whatever dishes chef Zev Flores feels during this “dinner party of your dreams.” There will be plenty of bottles of Champagne. Pick a seating between 5 to 8:45 p.m. and book on Resy.

    1046 Tasker St., 267-761-9750, mishmishphilly.com

    Aqimero

    There two ways to celebrate New Year’s Eve at Aqimero inside the lobby of the Ritz-Carlton. From 6 to 8 p.m., enjoy a curated four-course dinner with chilled seafood tower, caviar service, and lack of lamb by Chef Richard Sandoval. Optional wine or beverage pairings are available, too. After dessert, move directly into the New Year’s Eve celebration, from 8 p.m. to midnight, with no additional ticket. Or head directly into the holiday party, which features an open bar, appetizers and desserts, and live music by DJ Eddie Tully. There will be a champagne toast and a standout balloon drop at midnight. Tickets for dinner and party combo are $295 per guest, and party entry is $175 per guest. Book online.

    10 Ave of the Arts, 215-523-8200, aqimero.com

    Fleur’s

    In Kensington, Fleur’s is hosting a New Year’s Eve prix-fixe dinner featuring a six-course menu. Devour dry-aged hamachi crudo with golden Osetra caviar, grilled sweet potatoes with hazelnut, kombu-cured egg yolk, and black truffle, and lamb loin torchon. Dessert includes a dark chocolate mousse cake. There are two beverage pairings available, including a zero-proof beverage pairing, both with five drinks, plus a Champagne toast at midnight. Tickets are $125 per person; book on Resy.

    2205 N Front Street, 215-278-7675, fleursphilly.com

    Emmett

    Another Kensington restaurant is hosting a night of complimentary Champagne and caviar for New Year’s Eve. Emmett is offering a one-night only four-course menu with signature Emmett riffs: think venison tartar, grilled dorade, and winter citrus trifle. It’s $175 per person to reserve on OpenTable.

    161 W Girard Ave, 215-207-0161, emmettphilly.com